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Got screwed by dealer and buyer is feeling the pain


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I got the royal screw job by a dealer. This is almost too much to believe. I sold my 04 TE250 to a nice guy in Cali which is half way across the nation.. Prior to shipping the bike.. I had a dealer check the valves, supposedly installed new stainless valves earlier last summer and do a complete checkup. Well, I did not go over the bike when I got it back and sold it under the assumption that the dealer actually did the work. The poor guy gets the bike, valves are messed up, missing valve gasket, smoking a bit more than I think it was for me and other problems. I find out from the buyer the new valves were never installed and it was shimmed incorrectly..

Well, I agreed to refund some money and pay for gaskets...I have asked the dealer for a refund but no luck yet.. He said I have no proof etc but he might consider a partial refund after I put all the bills together. I doubt he pays and if he doesn't I will be more than happy to post his name on here with a photo copy of my receipt for the work he said was done.

:D :D ? :cry: ? :cry: ?:devil: :devil: :D :D :mad: :mad:

Oh well, felt bad for the guy that bought my bike but I think we resolved it with $$$ out of my pocket.

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Hate to hear you got screwed by a dealer. Not all are like that but that is also the reason I do ALL my own work on a bike.

As far as proof, I would tell the new owner to send you the wasted valve. Take that valve along with your bill and ask the dealer to explain....

Might not hurt to call HuskyUSA and tell them about the dealer aswell.

I hope everything works out with the dealer,

brown

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Have a dealer in Ca. verify the claims by the buyer, and ask the two mechanics talk it over on the phone. I did this with a supposedly new camshaft I bought for a harley off ebay. It had a nicked lobe and looked like it had been installed. I had the seller's mechanic call my mechanic while the part was there, and they discussed the problem. I got a refund less the shipping, and sent the item back at their expense. At least I was only screwed for only 12 bucks rather than $125.

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Who is doing what on this deal?? I do some of these ti to stainless conversions on KTM's and anticipate doing some Huskys in the future as the local dealer here is selling a fair number of units. I was on the phone this AM with the guy that makes valves for me and he plans a stainless conversion for the Husky, he said he provided valves for one but had determined that the stock valve springs where too light for the heavier valves which is consitant with how it is on the KTMs. He said the customer took the valves and his springs and then cut the inside of the retainers to fit the inner spring. He said he was worried about that combo as there was not much meat to cut into on the retainer.

Now I am wondering if that was your bike/the shop you dealt with and their modifeid retainer failed?

If you wanted I would be glad to handle it for your buyer but the parts are still in development so I could not give a time estimate.

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Sorry fellas,, I will not post the name until this is settled.. I am speaking to the owner of the shop tomorrow.. The parts department is full of SH**. They told me there were no headgaskets in the country and they are currently unavailable.. I said WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They told me too bad... Well I called another more reputable dealer... 6 hours away and they have them in stock and they told me the Cagiva warehouse has them as well. Again more lies.... Anyway, I plan to discuss all this with the owner of the dealership tomorrow. I will launch a webpage listing the problems with this dealership and the evidence if this is not resolved.. I will post a link here but I have to give them a chance.

I also agree that working on your own bike is the best but I travel entirely too much and what little time I have is usually spent with my son and wife. So I need the bike to run when I am ready to ride.

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cabeza,

Are you saying the seller sent you gaskets and a top-end (as in piston) + a check. That sounds fair.

I'm just a outsider looking in, I don't know either of you, but it sounds fair.

On your list of things to do... What head work are you going to have done other then pressing new seats in? I also wouldn't worry about a rod kit (OEM is all thats out there, more then likely), if you just replaced the bearing you should be good to go.

best of luck,

brown

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Dave,

I understand what you are saying. But, I don't think I'm making answer clear.

I'm not talking about the bottom rod roller bearings. I mean the bottom-end main bearings, the ball bearings.

It's tough to say, where the play is coming from unless your there to feel it and everyone feel for play/slop is different.

It could be the bottom rod roller bearing, I'm not saying it isn't. I'm just saying it could be something else. Just from what I know about bearings, I would say the main ball bearings would go before the bottom rod roller bearings.

Also, a roller bearing can have a slight amount of play in it, and still be good or even new.

I'm not disagreeing with you just thinking of other things it could be, before he spents the money on a new rod. If it was me and I felt there was play. I would first replace the main ball bearing (it's cheap) and if that wasn't it, I haven't wasted any money. Because if I was going to replace the rod I wouldn't put it together with the old bearings.

cabeza, I hope it all works out for you.

brown

brown

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I would be suprised if any bottom end bearings are damaged, I have seen rod bearings damages when the piston was tapping the head (not a current Husky) and the continued pounding trashed the bearing. In this case the valve failed so any impacts on the piston would not have been repeated but a few times.

I would love to see that head sent to Kibblewhite so they could use it for the prototype to make a stainless valve conversion. This is why in a prior post I ask who is doing what on this piece. If stock valves are $140 each & Kibblewhite is $38 each it may be worth the down time.

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