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Motor oil question...

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So im a thumper guy now, picked up a crf250r this afternoon, my question is...can i use Motor oil that you would use in cars in the motor oil part of the crf? If so what weight, and any specific brands you would recomend? I also plan on using 2 stroke tranny oil in the transmision oil part of the bike...Is that a good idea? Thanks in advance

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I use Honda HP4 in the motor and Honda 80/85W in the tranny. That is the best IMO. People on here use alot of different stuff that satisfies them also.

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Let's see...the manual says...engine oil API SG or higher, viscosity 10W-40, JASO MA or MB. Transmission oil API SG or higher, viscosity 10W-40, (NOW THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PART) JASO MA. Look on the oil container label and see if your oil of choice meets these qualifications.

This is for the CRF250R.

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I've heard it's a bad thing. Don't quote me on it, but I thought I remember reading on here that it's bad for the bike.

PS-What's up with the ugly green fender in your Avitar :cry:

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manual is a fantastic place to start, it lays it all out there.

Lots of oil discussion here.......lots........

EC stuff is bad for the clutch = slip

I run Shell Rotella-T Synthetic in both sides, motor and transmission, and all my other.

Not an EC.

Get it at Wal-Mart for about $16.00 a gallon.

Get a good oil based on your manual, and most importantly, check the level before every ride............must do! Not a lot of oil in the motor, a little loss through rev etc is a bunch for this little honda.

Good Luck

HR

:cry:

:cry:

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Yeah i allways new "energy saving" oil was a big no no for the tranny oil, but i didnt no what it would be liek for the motor oil...so just steer clear of it all together? Where I live right now its about 30 F out so should i still use 10 40?

And the ugly green fender will be replaced with a puurdy red one when i get some good pics lol :cry:

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Just like Hw said.Ues shell rotella-t syntehtic.I have close to 100 hrs on my 04 and no problems.Just put in a piston 2 days ago.It is my first.and valves look new,not a scratch.

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Synthetic is great for every moving part of a new motor except seating the rings.

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So use the 2 bottles of normal oil i bought today, then switch over to synthetic? That gives the bike plenty of time to break in...

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Synthetic is great for every moving part of a new motor except seating the rings.

I'm following you around :cry:

Of course, everything is debatable, especially oil threads. I expect to get Fred in on this one any minute... :cry:

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I've been using Mobile 1 red cap in both sides since breakin. I've been having clutch issues lately, whereas the clutch is not fully disengaging when I pull it in. I know this is somewhat "normal" but it's getting to the point where if I pull the clutch in and it's in gear, it will roll unless I put the brake on.

There were some posts here made by Dwight_Rudder where he basically blasted me for using "car oil" in my bike. Now, I know Dwight is a very experienced racer, even though he has a ridiculously bad demeanor. He seems to be under the impression that the M1 Red Cap will ruin the clutch fast. I'm starting to wonder if maybe he's right?

Anyway, now I'm starting wonder why NOBODY has the EBC clutch or the Tusk clutch in stock, and if maybe I should switch my tranny oil to something specifically made for motorcycle trannies.

Also, I'll be pulling my clutch tomorrow to check things out. Are there any obvious things I should be looking for? I've heard that I may have grooves in my clutch basket but honestly, this will be the first clutch basket I've ever seen so I'm not sure what I should be looking for. Sorry for the long post but most of you guys know I'm old and not real experienced when it comes to the bike mechanic stuff.

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Just to clear up any missunderstandings, im using 2 stroke transmision oil in my tranny, Only the car motor oil in my motor... In my opinion car oil is bad for the clutch...

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Just to clear up any missunderstandings, im using 2 stroke transmision oil in my tranny, Only the car motor oil in my motor... In my opinion car oil is bad for the clutch...

Honda recommends GN4 or HP4 in the tranny. Both of those oils are rated lower than Mobile 1 with regards to viscosity breakdown and they both meet the standards in the manual. I wouldn't put it in if it didn't meet the criteria laid out in the manual.

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Sounds like a groovy clutch basket to me. With the bike running on the stand does the rear wheel take off when you pull in the clutch and put it in gear. If so most likely basket time..........or ............a metal plate could be warped from overheating the clutch one time. Just pop the cover off and look for where the clutch fibers ears contact the basket. Smooth is good, notched is bad. Some folks try to file them to make it last but its better to bite the bullet and replace it. Also the inner hub will notch somewhat and you can dress it up and get by till the next time. I drill some extra hole in the inner basket to make it oil better. :cry:

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I wouldn't use anything but an OEM clutch in my bike. I haven't heard of anyone having luck with an aftermarket clutch.

You'll know if your basket is worn because they'll be grooves (or notches).

Here's a pic of a grooved basket and clutch hub.

basket02.jpg

hub01.jpg

The steel drive plates may be warped too.

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