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Bars, Bar risers, Adapters and Handguards - Fit, types and options - 2005 Huskys

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I have edited this post down. It was way too long winded. I only have one point/ question

I have now heard that the stock husky bars have smaller end holes then even pro taper bars and that those stock bar end holes have to be drilled out to accept any handguard system bar end mounts. is this true?

......I will believe this when I see it because I know Pro Taper makes a handguard system for their bars which has very small diameter bar end hardware available. Protaper's handguard bar end mounts are smaller diameter then all others . I have them on my DRZ and know this for a fact. Maybe the Protaper handguards bar end hardware will fit inside the husky stock bar end. ............ I also find this interesting that theorectically husky has made a stock bar that no one's handguurds hardware fits into at the bar end without drilling? .. if so that's unfortunate, have the rest of you all switched to new bars? have any of you stock bar owners had to drill out the ends of your bars to get your handguard system of choice end mounts to fit?.

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for desert a stabilizer is a must. also--if raising the bars is a goal--the v.2 GPR kills two birds with one stone...it adds 2 inches in height., and keeps the bike stable when defleting of a submerged boulder in a high speed arroyo.....add high bars and your in ape-hanger land.

as for hand protection--hard core woods guys need that aluminum sticking out the ends of the bars....but the rest of us might not. after trying numerous set ups i am now back to the simple acerbis guards that DONT wrap around. its enough to save my knuckles and keep the shrubs from depressing my front brake...while allowing more room. plus it wont crimp my style when i crash...or break my wrist for that matter.

just one way to go...works good in the dez. probably not the ticket for Vermont....

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assuming that the new bikes have the same make of handle bar as the old bikes, yes it will need to be drilled. The bar is by a euro company and the end holes are samller ,it needs to be drilled out.

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I have and love the Fastwayperformance.com system, it attaches from the handlebar mount to the end of the bars, it stays put, not going to roll around the bar when you fall and nuke a brake hose and does not take up space for the mid bar clamp. The ends dip down so its not going to break your wrist if you go over the bars. The only problem is they do not make it for Husky yet so I used a FBS lower 1/2 with the top half Fastway mount for a KTM, had to massage the holes over just a bit in a milling machine.

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I have now heard that the stock husky bars have smaller end holes then even pro taper bars and that those stock bar end holes have to be drilled out to accept any handguard system bar end mounts. is this true?

I also find this interesting that theorectically husky has made a stock bar that no one's handguurds hardware fits into at the bar end without drilling? .. if so that's unfortunate, have the rest of you all switched to new bars? have any of you stock bar owners had to drill out the ends of your bars to get your handguard system of choice end mounts to fit?.

The Tommaselli's as fitted standard on the Huskies are a very strong bar and yes do have thicker walls. If you have to spend 10mins drilling the ends out to fit handguards then I would not say this is disapponting if you want arguably the strongest bars out there.

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I like the idea of keeping my stock bars. I love that they are strong and I like the bar bend. I guess I'm more informed now, not disapointed, that I would have to drill them out at the end to fit wrap around handguards. My main reason for full wrap around handguads is to protect my levers in a fall. I drop my bike often usually little 1st and 2nd gear dump crashes. My levers would take too much abuse without wrap around handguards...........I think brush guards would not protect my levers as well or at all.

I do like the stock bars very much. In fact that is why I'm trying to find a way to open up the cockpit while keeping the stock 7/8 bars. its a problem all the adapters are for fat bars.....so use an adpater to raise the bar and I'm stuck replacing it. ......I'm still researching ways to raise the stock bars..........I understand I can rotate the stock mounts forward to offset them but how can I raise them is the question I realy want to find an answer to......maybe a 7/8 bar riser mount exists.or maybe the KTM stuff people have posted about will do it for me.......is the stock Husky bar 7/8"? or is it an odd outer diamter size too? there's a good question.....hmmmmm if not a standard 7/8" diamter does the husky stock setup need special fitted grips when it comes time to replace the grips? better know all the facts hey?

The more info the better. I have learned BRP tall mounts are only my stock height, I have learn SSP is in Austraila, and that Dave's fastway solution takes some doing.......now I have learned to drill out my bars, where as before guys just posted OH I use Cycra or acerbis or fastway is the best....whit out giving me the details I want like buddy DRILL out the bars.......I learned on my DRZ Don't just order or buy a product till you know it fits and does what you want it to do. so Im asking lots of questions. :cry:

oh yeah back to the handguard bar end mount diameter. Has anybody bought the ProTaper hanguard system, I have. The pro Taper bar end mount bolt assembly is very small in diameter to fit into the Pro Taper bar...........maybe it will fit into the stock husky bar? at least let's buy the smallest bolt to begin with so the drilling out of the stock bars is minimal. Who has the smallest bolt? I know ProTaper has the smallest hole, smaller then any other fat 1 1/8" bar........

I have never seen the cycra bar end mount maybe its got a small diamter one too..as I see lots of Cycra Pro bends on pro taper bars..........I know that Acerbis Rally pros have a special Pro Taper bar end mount that DOEs NOT fit in Protaper bar ends. I had to take one back to a store and show them it didnt fit beforee they would take it back.

thank you

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Is this going to be an ongoing thing with you? or will you shut up after you get the damn bike?

Pro tapers, BRP high rise bar clamps, or the GPR v.2. Damn, how hard can that be?

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I packed the mount up by 20mm and used longer bolts.

Huskytone the bloke is excited by getting a new bike,why not let him enjoy

himself.After all this is here to exchange views,not to exchange silence

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Is this going to be an ongoing thing with you? or will you shut up after you get the damn bike?

Pro tapers, BRP high rise bar clamps, or the GPR v.2. Damn, how hard can that be?

:lol:lol: how do I answer that while not inflaming you or others further. let me try the fun way.

If you see my signature you will see I am aka bigbob. bigbob - that's me. I had over 4000 posts in 14 months on Thumpertalk last year. I changed my TT name To MorningRider 2 months ago for a number of reasons, becasue I saw a new Big Bob (with caps and a space ) here at TT and did not want confusion, the format of TT changed and I'm buying a new bike, but all that said............I have not changed my stripes. I am still a TT addict and perhaps unfortunately for the Husky forum I have chosen a new Husky as my next bike. I will be here often and posts will be many. :cry:

Now this bar thing is multiplexed as I have not yet decided on a fix for my bike. My prefernece is to use the existing stock bars...NOT to buy a ProTaper bar and NOT to buy a Stabilizer..and NOT to change the triple clamp.................. so far I have no answer that I have seen unless I mis read it, for what my 1st preference is other then to mill my own bar risers. well guess what - I don't own a milling machine.

My last bit of advice is if I bug you then simply put me on your ignore list, you will not see my posts again. Finally I may be a newbie at dirt bikes and my questions can be inane, misdirected, sophmoric and probably make most experienced bike owner's hair stand up some on occasion --well Tough Taco is all I can say, but don't assume I'm a idiot. I am an Engineer. A good and experienced one at that which means I can see through BS.

I hope to contribute some too here in the my new husky home, once I know what I'm talking about :cry:

now in honor of this post I'm making a new one about starting the bike after a crash...........and maybe another about that kick stand stability

Bob

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Damn, this forum is so serious about the most trivial crap.

first off, I'm not going to ignore anyone, It's too entertaining to see what the latest trend in allen wrenches and seat "D-ring" fastening techniques is. :cry:

second, go get your bike and ride it already. :cry:

Third, don't use "Idiot" and "Engineer" in the same sentence. (which you did not, but they came dangeriously close) :cry:

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Third, don't use "Idiot" and "Engineer" in the same sentence. (which you did not, but they came dangeriously close) :cry:

Not sure what ya mean by this but have experienced plenty of engineers who are idiots.

Bob, bring on these questions as they have a lighthearted way about them and even though some may be trivial, they can be helpful.

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Bob! What do you do with your freetime??? Just kidding! I'm am thinking about buying my 1st Husky[250TE] & need to know as much as possible before buying. I'm making a list & since a dealer isn't very close, your info however sophmoric can be useful to us 1st time buyers. Now I know I need hand guards to fit, there's a sidestand issue, I may have a maint. issue with Ti valves similar to honda's, plastic may explode[buy spares] or save for spares, & I may need a jd jetting kit. Anything else before I go get my 250TE next week?

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Bob! What do you do with your freetime??? Just kidding! I'm am thinking about buying my 1st Husky[250TE] & need to know as much as possible before buying. I'm making a list & since a dealer isn't very close, your info however sophmoric can be useful to us 1st time buyers. Now I know I need hand guards to fit, there's a sidestand issue, I may have a maint. issue with Ti valves similar to honda's, plastic may explode[buy spares] or save for spares, & I may need a jd jetting kit. Anything else before I go get my 250TE next week?

sometimes a fool's advice can be as valuable as any. :D so here goes: I have had my wonderful 05-TE510 for 2 weeks now. 5 hours on the motor. Two ride days in the woods and two in the open play area. My current thoughts are:

1.) I like the auto side stand. Two posts have been made on how to convert it to a non auto stand. I'm keeping mine as is. :o

2.) Honda valves? where did you come up with that? reports are that the 04 husky valves are holding up fine. I expect my 05 valves to do better. one thing for sure access is great and it's easy to check them. I will check mine for the first time at 10 hours.

3.) even though I think the electrical system talk in one mag is just talk, at teh advice of my dealer who has been spot on so far on everything, I bought a battery tender and I keep my bike plugged in. He sold me a set of leads that you install on the battery so when I get home I simply lift out that quick release seat and plug her in. I love the SEAT by the way. Comfort quality and that quick release pin is awesome

4.) handaguards: Lots of advice there from other husky owners. Lots of guard systesm fit. One thing is mandatory, drilling out those thick strong stock bars. The husky stock bars are VERY GOOD and very strong. They are thicker at the ends then ProTapers. The bar ends have to be drilled out. use a 17/32 drill bit. you need a friend's drill that can handle that size bit. Most home drills have a 3/8" chuck and most 3/8 shank drill bits stop at 1/2". get a friend to hold the bike while you drill out the bars. measure the lenght of your chosen bar end bolt and drill in that far. be steady, slow and purposful drilling your bars. I have cycra pro bend handguards with bar mounts - I like em.

5.) bar risers: Several posts have named companys that have bar riser solutions for adding 1 1/8" aftermarket bars. Thanks to willaim in Santa Cruz, we found this company that makes a riser set/stabilizer mount for the stock bars, you have to call them as the web page says for aftermarket. i ordered my set. they call the moun the under bar stabilizer mount.....it is great for that and it rises the bars and they have it for the stock 7/8" bars too

http://www.ptenduro.com/under.htm

6.) JD kit - Read other's reports carefully. They know more then me, but my experience with JD's kit for my 05 -TE510 was not satisfactory. I only bought the kit out of new bike fever.......silly the bike runs super right of the show room floor. I would order and install an extended fuel screw. that is the ticket for small adjustments on the bike. I re-jetted mine back to stock and the stock jetting is perfect. The bike runs just right. TRUST Husky they know what they are doing. Buy the bike and just ride. Change that fisrt oils after your 30 minute break in ride.

7.) plastic - word is they are shipping new plastic. I have only droped the bike on one tight turn in the woods. the plastic survives :D .. Dont worry about it. 3 reports here in this forum about 05 plastic cracks ups...so I assume its an issue, but dont worry about. I'm sure husky will save us.

I love my husky. It turns so sweet and handles so well and does everything great in the woods...slow techy stuff, and climbing and more open trails all good all gears all situations. The suspension comes stiff. plan to adjust it for your riding needs and break it in too.

the 05 huskys are fantastic bikes. :):D;):p:D

what do i do in my spare time - good question. its 3 am in the morning I woke up to take a piss and jumped on TT for a minute to help me go back to sleep and here i am typing a long reply...jeez. :) Good night :D

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bigbob

I recently bought a new husky and the information you have generated has help me alot. thanks jb

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bigbob

I recently bought a new husky and the information you have generated has help me alot. thanks jb

Congratulations. Welcome to the sunlight, and thanks for the comment. My small posts stand on the shoulders of giants.

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bigbob!

:) glad to see that you have a good dealer behind you the battery tender is a good option although if the dealer has done the PDI properly he would have charged the battery up what i have found is that because the battery is a gel cell and come pre charged the guy doing the set up is not charging them; and due to the type of battery requires a vey low ampage charge (12V-6Ah) TC/TE 250 0.6a for 8hrs and the TE/TC 450-510 (12V-2.3Ah) 0.4A for 8hrs any higher ampage can result in damage and shortend life of the battery. this applies to all gel type batteries whether its dirt or street. :)

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