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Valve shims - anybody considered lapping them?

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I know this may seem needless but couldn't a shim from a too tight valve just be carefully lapped to the proper thickness? I'm considering this because I'm 100 miles from the closest Suz dealer and I'd rather just get the job done rather than calling up and waiting 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 days for the shims to arrive in the mail.

I know a lot about lapping and I can hold whatever surface finish and geometry is necessary. I'm wondering if anybody knows about the shims - hardened steel? case hardened?

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If done by hand,, the chances that you would grind in a taper,, which could/will allow the shim to unseat and pop out of the retainer is way to great to risk.. If you could ensure a perfect parallel surface top to bottom,, and control thickness to the .001mm range then sure,, it would work.

A few have done just what your asking..... Never heard back if they had problems.

As my bike is not a sole mode of transportation,,, I've never had to make that kind of decision.. But I know I have no intention of trying it. Well that,, and I have 150 shims or so on my parts shelf :cry:

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Well, actually I can hold that kind of geometry by hand - I'm a master optician - It's easy to screw something up by hand lapping if you don't know what you doing. But I will probably machine grind the shim. I can do that on a couple of different kinds of machines - a common surface grinder, and a Opticam optical generator - a machine tool of unusual precision.

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I've done it several times. It is not that hard to keep the shim flat - figure 8 lap pattern, and incremental checking with a micrometer. My WR has had lapped shims in for two years - absolutely no problems.

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I've done it several times. It is not that hard to keep the shim flat - figure 8 lap pattern, and incremental checking with a micrometer. My WR has had lapped shims in for two years - absolutely no problems.

I've done it before. I hand lapped and mic'd them and they were well within .001". I did it this way because my valves were toast and I was on my third valve adjustment. This was just to get me through the next few rides, after which I installed new intake valves and intake cam along with new shims.

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halfnutz...3 valve adjustments on your DRZ? how many miles? seems like alot for the trusty DRZ

wow I wonder what I will find tomorrow on MY DRZ when I look at the valves for the first time ever at 4900 miles.

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drews bike had under 5000 miles when it needed a valve job i believe.

"but the manual says 15,000 for the first check"........ :cry:

Yep, just turned over 5K when the intake valves were toast. I traced it back, I think, to when I failed to replace the hose between the oil breather box and the airbox. I sucked some dust in which ruined the hardening on the valve surface. From the first time I noticed a problem (hard to start) It was too late. From that point to the time the valves went out of clearance the third time (and beyond adjustable tolerances) was under 1K miles. (Admittedly they were fairly brisk trail miles).

The tolerances have not budged since installing the new stainless valves and cam. :cry:

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well...I have rode a lot of summer dusty miles..but kept my filter clean, still starts easy every time.

I could say if My DRZ is on its last legs Thank god I bought my husky :cry: but that would get me flamed..... look at it this way....you'll see less n less of me maybe........I'm allready driving the husky forum guys nuts over there and I don't even have the bike yet :cry:

we'll report back on the valves after tomorrow's DRZ valve party at pshiess's house...I got a feeling because I'm not a WFO rider ..my valves will be ok probably need some little adjustment that's all.

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For most people the answer is don't do it. But it sounds like you have the right tools and knowledge to do it correctly so go for it. I don't now for sure, but I expect the shims are hardened thru. They are small so that would be easier than surface treatments. At any rate, you will be able to tell if you remove a surface hardening treatment by the way the metal comes off in the grinding/lapping process.

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we'll report back on the valves after tomorrow's DRZ valve party at pshiess's house...I got a feeling because I'm not a WFO rider ..my valves will be ok probably need some little adjustment that's all.

most likely wont need any adjustment at all.but what if they have moved considerably?its to late if they did.checking them early in the bikes life would have given you reference of any movement.

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