Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

more engine development dyno graphs...

Recommended Posts

ah yes,more graphs. :cry: after talking to RHC we decided to see what one of his cams would do in a stock motor at high altitude.

so i purchased one of RHC's new protype "torque" cams.

here you go.ron can fill any one on the details of the cam.

RHC cam vs stock cam horsepower

RHC cam vs stock cam torque

heres the overall gain from stock pipe and cam RHC cam and CHM SM1 pipe.

horsepower

torque

next step is 13.5 to 1 compression with the cylinder to head clearance closed up some.that should bring the horse power up and bring the peak torque along with spreading the curve.

shortly there after ron should have my head done. :cry:

right now in very pleased with being above 50hp for 2500 rpm and 6hp gain from 8600 to 10,200. :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Burned thanks for sharing this info, but better name that cam something else besides torque cam. At least to me, that usually means bottom end power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thats only in comparison to the normal 208 cam.

im at 5200ft so the stock compression piston isnt optimum for this cam.

this isnt a trail bike. :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This cam was intended for the engines that required more low end and midrange vs the 208 grind .in a modifyed engine it produces 3-4 more pounds of torque than the 208 in the 4000 to 6000 rpm range with only .8 less hp @ peak .also this cam has less intake lift than a stock cam and the same ex lift as stock it will be eazyer on the valve train .With increased compression it will make more low end and more peak with much better over rev also with the increased ex duration the engine should run cooler if it picks up 1.5 -2 more hp with the piston change this would be a 54 hp bike with a cam piston and pipe change with more low end and considerably more over rev, bolt on hp .somthing else to consider MCGrath got 3 rd place @ the x games with a 208 grind cam and a 12.5 -1 piston and thays all no porting .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ron can you tell me the lobe centers you are running ? and what the the centers on a hot cam stage 2 are , just wondering . thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the cam Lc is suposed to be 107 in 104 ex the stock motor liked the timing advanced .i have no idea what the hot cam is for timing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

retarding the stock cam helps the top end but in the case of this cam it did not change the top end @ all advancing it helped the bottom but did not change the top

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Burned the spec I was asking for is the actual lobe separation ground in to the cam , the info you are giving is going to save anybody installing a cam lots of time , thanks for that . but Im trying to compare cam lobe centers because I think RHC'S cam's are scavenging better than others .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thats a question for ron.

since it was a prototype there was no cam card included.

ron instructed me to set it up at 107/104.after confering we decided to try 103/108 becuase of my altitude and only using the stock piston.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will check with Ron, thanks again , not too many guy's share thier development spec's like you :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lobe seperation angle 105.5 107+104=211 211x5=105.5 103+108=211 211x.5=105.5 seperation angle ,i have been thinking about changing the sep angle but the cam seems to work well now.Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By 33KTM350
      I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...
      1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  
      2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   
      3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    
       




    • By Eric Blasiman
      We have a 2016 CRF450R with about 11 hours out. never ridden hard always check the oil and change when needed along with the air filter. Took care of the recall that was required as well. Well when riding the bike was stalled out. Went to try and kick start the bike again. the kick start lever just back up jamming my knee into the handle bars and some how ended up cracking the case right by where the kick start goes through the case. Has any one had this happen or heard of this happening? What is the cause? 
    • By crfjunky1320
      Any advice on what should be replaced while I have the top end off for a valve replacement. Will do headgasket and springs of course, anything other parts you would recommend while I'm going at it?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Ron Whitfeld
      The dirtbike is on it's forth year right now on the same motor job. I have to jump start it. Is it worth me trading for a 2009 650 brute force with7000 miles? Need some expert advice. Thanks 
    • By Lucas Hansen
      Just wondering what you guys do to remove black marks on your seat. My 08 crf450r has the red/black seat, and after each ride there are some black marks on the red from my riding pants. Not scuff marks, more like patches of black residue from my pants rubbing on the seat. I’ve tried the magic eraser which seemed to do the trick, but lately they seem like they aren’t coming off. Also tried scrubbing bubbles with a brush and no luck. Not too worried cuz I have an spare OEM seat, but I’d like to keep this one nice. Any ideas? Maybe I shouldn’t wear black pants?
×