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thanks to ovrrdride's rejet guid.... but???

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OK, I just rejetted my son's ttr 125L. From that thread, it was a snap. thank you vary much. But, here is what i did. I bought the parts from my favorite store ever, renton rmc. However, they only had the 20 pilot, the 17.5 was out of stock. It is in the 40's here now so i thought it would be fine. I got the 110 main to go with it. ( do I have the terms main and piolet right?) I am in the prosses of getting the FMF powercore IV to slap on later. Will this set up work? And secondly, I have no idea how many turns out the fuel screw was is or even where to turn it. It started in 3 kicks with the choke out and kept running with the choke off after like 15 sec during warm up. It never warmed up that fast before, I like that part. But even with the choke off, it was idling like mad. I just turned down the idle till i was happy with the rpms. Was this all i needed to do?

thanks a ton, Pips

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yea.. i recon everything sounds good. i wouldn't recomend the powercore pipe though. if you look at dynos, it really dosn't do too much. spend the extra $$ and get a good pipe like a bbr. i just got my bike back from rejeting with the bbr pipe, freeflow airfilter, and airbox mod, and i got a TON more low, and mid. :cry::cry:

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Save even more money and washer the end cap on the stock muffler. You will be amazed at how much that helps.

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I am in Olympia. Running 17.5 and 110, 1.5 turns on the pilot. I also reset the float level because it was way off. Did the air box mod and have the FMF pipe. I must say for what I have spent total, I am extremely happy with the gains in the seat of the pants dyno. If you want much more, I say buy a 250.

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Washer the end cap? What the heck is that?

And whats the deal woith those end caps that are selling on ebay for like 30 bucks?

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Basically, if its running right it's running right no matter how you got there. There is a bog that's associated with being too rich, and if your 20 pilot was too big you would have it. If it starts bogging and blowing a lot of black smoke when it warms up drop back to a 17.5 pilot jet then.

Now that you've done it once it will be a breeze. :cry:

Glad the guide helped you.

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Washer the end cap? What the heck is that?

And whats the deal woith those end caps that are selling on ebay for like 30 bucks?

The washer mod is taking off the stock endcap and putting a washer on each bolt between the cap and the muffler so it is spaced out the width of the washers. Believe it or not, this lets a whole lot more air out and costs basically nothing.

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Washer the end cap? What the heck is that?

And whats the deal woith those end caps that are selling on ebay for like 30 bucks?

The stock endcap has a .490 square inch cross sectional area. Shimming the stock endcap at least 1/4" increases the area to 1.01 square inches. By comparison an eBay 1.5" opening endcap has a 1.766 sq. inch area.

To washer (or shim) the endcap:

* Remove the three M6 endcap bolts

* Add washers (M6 bolt > endcap > washers > muffler)

I took some measurements and ran some numbers on our TTR. I then drilled nine 1/4" holes on the muffler end flanges (three on each section) and six smaller holes (two outboard holes on each section) and shimmed the endcap .320" to net a 1.52 sq. in. end cap area. The results are functionally similar to the ProMoto Billet Silent Insert shown above. The bike purrs with a 110 main, 17.5 pilot and standard airbox mods.

While you're at it, the stock pipe header flange welds restrict flow. A little time with a Dremel bit and steel wool is well considered.

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PIP,

My son also rides a TTR- 125 (2004), and I also changed all the jetting this weekend. I'm in So. Cal. and I just added the Pro Circuit header and muffler, took out the Air Box Backfire screen and cut the entire top out of the air box, and changed to a Twin Air filter. I left about a 3/8" flange around the edge of the air box so I can add a layer of foam if it gets really dusty or sandy in the summer. I had the same problem with the dealer being out of the 17.5 pilot jet so I also ran the 20. I install a 112.5 main jet and the clip was in the middle position from the factory so I moved it to the bottom spot, effectively moving the needle up. We rode about 60 miles, The bike started 1st kick when cold and had at least 10 MPH increase on the top end. We didn't feel the increase in the bottom end we expected. When we returned to the truck I pulled the plug and checked it with out letting the bike idle. The plug was almost perfect. Then we started it up and let it idle for allmost 5 min. the plug was black. So, this morning I have ordered the 17.5 pilot from the TT store. Most of the other posts about the jetting are not very specific about the entire set-up of the engine. I would also like to thank ovrrrdrive for the Jetting guide, it was a big help. The only Item I was not clear about after reading the Guide was the adjustability of the clip, ours was in fact adjustable.

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