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Bike won't run with Choke on

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I need your help guys. The title pretty much says it all.

2001 DRZ kicker - 165 main, clip 5, 45 pilot, 2.5 on the fuel screw.

I was having some problems with the carb, so I ripped it apart for a (much needed )cleaning. Now the bike will start without the choke, which it never would before. I'd be happy except that every time I touch the choke or the hot start, the bike coughs and dies instantly. I've tried running the fuel screw in and out, but it doesn't have any effect other that killing the bike when it goes in too far.

The bike seems to run OK, but I don't want to fry the engine if I'm running too lean. Is it even possible to accidentally switch jets? Stupid question by the way, but which way on the fuel screw make the bike run richer?

Help!!!

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So when the bike is warmed up you need the choke, now?

Your title and the statement """Now the bike will start without the choke, which it never would before."" are two opposite statements? Cause if the bike is warm and you choke it it probably will quit- that's normal. If you mean if you turn off the choke the bike quits- well then you are probably lean.

""""I'd be happy except that every time I touch the choke or the hot start, the bike coughs and dies instantly. I've tried running the fuel screw in and out, but it doesn't have any effect other that killing the bike when it goes in too far."""

I'd put the fuel screw back to 2.5 if that's where you were at before and it ran fine.

"The bike seems to run OK, but I don't want to fry the engine if I'm running too lean. Is it even possible to accidentally switch jets? Stupid question by the way, but which way on the fuel screw make the bike run richer?"

Fuel Screw in- leans out= richens (my understanding)

Certain you can't switch Jets' accidentally-

Not many people on here tonight- I was checking to see if my post was gettin' answered and noticed yours. I don't have any solutions for you- just wanted to give you some responce - hope I helped some... Myself I'd check everything over and ensure everything was put back together correctly...

Good luck :cry:

Help!!!

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on a warm engine the choke will make the bike rich enough to die.the hot start makes it lean enough to die.sounds normal to me.

if it runs good,its in no danger of being lean enough to hurt it self.

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Thanks for the responses guys.

The bike seems to be running all right, but I'm still not quite comfortable yet.

I wasn't too clear in my initial post. If I try to start the bike cold with the choke on, it will not start. If I get the bike running without the choke (still cold) and hit the choke, the bike dies. Never did that before. Maybe I finally got something set right for a change :cry: ?

I guesss I'll try riding it tomorrow and see if there are any problems. Its warmer today, and my house is at a lower altitude that where I normall ride (by about 1500), so maybe that will help. It normally takes about a minute or two with the choke on before the bike is warm enough to run when I turn it off.

Oh well, we'll just have to see.

Thanks again for the replies!

SW

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Yeah, the coast enricher is still in place. I have a 160 jet on order, but I've been running the 165 for more than a year. Ran OK, but always had an off idle stumble. Didn't change anything, just took it apart and cleaned the hell out of it with carb cleaner, then blew it dry. Some of the o-rings are getting old and I was planning on replacing them when I got the parts, but nothing seems to leak.

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My guess would be some of the rubber parts in the coast enrichener did not like the carb cleaner and the secondary air jet is closed off at idle. Time to remove the coast enrichener and rejet to accomodate the removal. The other possibility is the starter jet is plugged up so when you activate the coke it acts like a big air leak. The pilot jet is 45 and the starter jet is 65. I don't think they can be swaped on the Keihin.

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You could be right on the enricher. I don't remember spraying it, but I probably did. I rechecked the jets and they are all in the right place. I also checked for any blockage and I didn't find anything so i don't think any got loose in the carb.

I'll think about yanking it and rejetting. Always had that dang stumble anyway.

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Just did a quick search and now I'm totally confused :cry: (nothing new btw). If I pull the enricher, what jetting should I use. I checked DRZinfo.com, but there are too many options. What jetting should I use? 2001 Kicker, FMF Q. I normally ride anywhere from 1500 to 3000'.

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if you just want to remove the CE,you can leave the 45 pilot and get a 100 pilot air jet or better yet get a pilot air screw conversion.set it at 1 turn.

noble is correct about checking the starter jet.it could be plugged.

the pilot and starter jets are not interchangeable so rules that out.

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Sounds like a rich condition in the pilot circuit. Is the choke on the bars or is it a pull knob on the carb? I don't know the setup on the DRZ's. If it's a bar mount like my LTZ, I'd check the cable freeplay or lack of it.

My WRF is jetted rich for WOT running and when dead cold (here in So Cal) I can start the bike with the choke off and then pull it on and it will fast idle.

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Burned - thanks again for the help :cry: . I think I'll go ahead and chuck the CE and rejet. I think I'll just order all new jets including the starter jet. The bike ran pretty well today (better than usual), but I don't like things that don't work correctly. Getting rid of that bog would sure be nice.

Dual-Dog - the choke on the DRZ is mounted on the carb body. Starting the bike cold this morning took a while, but once I got it started it ran pretty well. Normally turning on the choke when the bike was warm didn't do anything.

SephW

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