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CRF250X hard shifting

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I was wondering if anybody else has had problems with there X being hard to shift. I also have the R model which shifts great compared to the X. Hawaii.

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i have an R and it doesn't shift as smooth as my brother's R. But he had an X for like 2 months before he got the R and his X shifted like butter. I think it just depends on the rider, how much u abuse it (power shift) and how often u change ur tranny oil.

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My X is a tricky shifter also. sometimes it seems ok then it's like gremlins were in there messing with me. :cry: I change the oil often but wonder if a different kind of oil might be better. Why do two smokes use gear lube in the tranny when were supposed to use 10w40?

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different things can effect the shifting......some you can control, some require you to get in the transmission harder

Angle of your shift lever and how much boot you get under the lever and how firm the shift is. Are you "reaching" for the lever when you shift....not giving it a good hit?....

How many hours you have on the tranny, if its new.......give it some hours to loosen up.

I went to Shell Rotella-T Synthetic in both sides of my X, motor and Transmission.

My X shifted pretty well from the get go, but I will admit changing to the Rotella-T it did improve it even more.

Its a no effort shifting deal now....just lean on the lever and go.....

I get it in gallon jugs at Wal-Mart, (blue, not the white jugs.)

Let us know what works.

HR

:cry:

:cry:

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I've always found the shifting on my X a little difficult mostly because of the peg / shifter positioning. In the original position, I found the shifter too low for my size 12 foot because my toe was pointing too low and susceptible to snagging a rock or root. I also found that when I stood or slid back on the seat, I would up shift it. I then moved it up two splines on the shaft. Now it got hard to up shift because the position on the shift shaft meant that the shifter tip had to move both up and back in an arc during a shift. I finally settled on one spline up from original which was is OK but I think the best solution would be a longer shifter, offset shifter tip or a lower footpeg.

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Funny. I have been making all kinds of adjustments to my bike to get it to shift easily and posting questions about different set-ups. I was talking with the parts manager at my shop about this and I started talking about boot shapes. We took Sidi, Alpinestar and Fox boots and lined them up to compare. Look at all these boots closely. The Fox boots (flashy Nike like) and the Alpine Stars (all those Pros wear them, oh my!) have a curve in the sole and a large toe. How do you get your foot under the shifter easily with those? We looked at the Sidis and the sole was flat and the toe area was small- almost wedge shaped. Seems to me like you would have more of an acute feel for the controls.

I have owned Stars and Fox. I don't own Sidis but I would like to now after seeing them in that light and so does the guy at my shop because even he made unneeded adjustment to his bike to compensate for his footsies.

I just figured I would add something to think about.

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Never paid much attention to boot soles, but you're right. Just had a look at the sole on my Gaerne's and they curve up in the front portion too.

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I had the same problem after about 20 miles on my new 05 CRF250X. It seemed intermittent so I decided to just wait it out until I changed the tranny oil. At about 80 miles I swapped oil and went to Castrol GTX 20W50 in the tranny and Castrol Syntec 10W40 in the crankcase. I rode another 20 miles this past weekend and the shifting seemed to be flawless. I've always used Castrol GTX 20W50 in all my bikes. I've never had an oil-related transmission problem and have always experienced great clutch wear. The only transmission problem I ever had was when I switched to Pennzoil 10W40 in an 89 KDX200 (the recommended oil) for a cold-weather ride and ended up frying the tranny. I fixed the fried gears, went back to Castrol 20W50 and never had another problem.

I also bought a pair of AlpineStars Tech 8's (red to match the bike) recently. They have a pretty big toe area. I've always used the edge of the sole where it sticks out from the side of the boot to shift with. That way you don't have to get your foot completely under the shift lever. I adjust the shift lever where the bottom of the shift lever is approximately on top of the sole that sticks out when in the standing attack position. That way my foot only needs to move about 1/2 inch in either direction to shift.

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I'm starting to replace my shifter shaft as a thrown chain has bent it. Any hints?

It looks like the outer case must be taken off as well as inner clutch.

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Depending on how bad it's bent you may need to try and straighten it so it will slide out of the clutch side case. Personally, if it were me I would try to cut it off and try bending it back as a last resort. If you put too much pressure on it you may crack the case, then you're in a big bind. When my chain derailed it bent the shaft and cracked the case. :applause:

To get it out you need to remove the inner clutch case cover and basket.

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