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2005 YZ250F Rekluse Help

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Does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop my 05 250f from creeping with the Rekluse auto clutch? I do have the barrell adjuster. The install gap is .036".

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We put one in my daughter's '05 YZ250F with only about 10 minutes running time on the bike since new. When the installation was first completed it worked perfectly but after about 1 1/2 tanks of fuel at the track and then sitting for a couple of days it creeped. I changed the oil with Valvoline 10W40 (non energy conserving) and it stopped creeping....try that.

Rich

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This bike has about 130 miles on it, woods ridden only. I will be racing enduros on it mainly, so I need the creeping issue to be solved. I have not been able to make it quit creeping since installation, but when I squeeze the clutch, the bike will sit still. Should I take more slack out of the cable? I have about 1/2 inch slack now. Thanks for the help

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We don't have the perch adjuster. When ours first started creeping I tried increasing the tension on the spring but this made no difference for the problem. Since changing the oil I've ran the bike maybe 1/2 dozen times for 15-30 minutes or so per ride in the yard and field with no creeping. The colder weather was my best guess.

Perhaps you need to losen up abit on the tolerance. I didn't get an exact measurement on ours. But the original was 48 thousandths, changed to the medium thicker plate and it checked ok. But I never did check to see what the actual measurement was. The .035 fit and the .045 didn't.

Also check your idle, it may be too high. Anyway it goes, this could be the ultimate all purpose mx/single track machine! :cry: And that's coming from a WR450F rider. :cry:

Rich

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I tried all kinds of adjustments on mine. I was ready to give up. In a last ditch effort before I sold it I tightened up the adjustment below minimum tolerance and put on the motocross spring (the heavier one). Now I don't have the slip after riding a lot of slow technical uphills where the clutch is slipping almost all the way up. Also I don't have the creep and my clutch grabs right of idle. The only thing about this setup is that it sometimes doesn't engage going downhill untill I give the throttle a little blip. Also, I use mobil 1 red cap oil.

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Thanks for the help. I think I am going to try taking some slack out of the cable with the original slack adjuster, and play with the barrel adjuster some after that. The bike does not go dead, it just creeps enough to make me crazy. If I squeeze the clutch, the creeping stops--which is why I am going to take a little more play out of the cable. Currently, I have about one half inch freeplay, so I can stand to take some out. What do you think?

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Does it creep less when the engine is cold or if you give it just a little gas?

The YZ250Fs are famous for clutches that drag, the automatic clutch can oftem make it worse. The frictions are too smooth and the clutch doesn't flow enough oil at idle. Two smooth surfaces (drive plate/friction plate) with a thin layer of oil = surface tension = friction.

The best fix is a set of CRF250 friction disks. Other things to try: Chevron DELO 400 15w40 oil (sticks to the clutch plates better than most oils) or drilling the holes in the center clutch out to 1/8" or 3mm (takes less centrifugal force to get the oil out into the clutch.

But could just be your cable slack adjustment or even a sticky cable. Try the basic external adjuster by itself (to eliminate cable friction). Just leave your stock cable in place. If you can adjust it out with the basic external adjuster AND have a nice low engagement point, then your problem is with cable friction or cable freeplay. Only use a dry cable lube like teflon or graphite (or one that dries completely).

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Al,

It would be very helpful for you to provide this information on your website.

Honda CRF250 friction plate, model year and part #

As well as you choice of oils...

I recently tried Chevron Delo 15-40 in my YZ280f and found that it allowed the clutch to run cooler and not slip. But, it also degraded my ease of cold starting, over synthetic oil. What's your opinion on Delo synthetic and Mobil1 RC??

thanks,

RH

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hi all.

I've same problem on a wr250f 02

I've read more treads possible but I'm not yet convinced how proceed (considering I'm not mec and I need to pay mecanic to do adjusts...).

I'm guessing those are the steps to proceed:

1-try different oil (I'm in Italy, some oils listed I never seen here :-) )

2-try different spring (mx instead enduro , but I don't ride mx...)

3-try new clutch pack (aftermarket non stock I mean)

note that I've same problems of this tread riding really cold winter (5 to 6 C° degrees) but will be not too much warmer in the next two months.

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I have the efm but it sounds like .036 is not enough clearence. efm calls for .047-.065. I got my clutch 2 years ago, gave up on it to soon and took it off. I think alot of people did this. But, I just put it back on and spent the time to get it dialed in, which was a challenge. But I am now a convert. Don't give up. No drag and pretty much instant engagement is what you are after then learn to use it. Do you happen to live in North, Al??

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The recommended setting on the Rekluse is .035-.045. I was using yamalube 10w50 oil, but I switched to Yamalube 10w30. I have not ridden the bike yet, but I will before the weekend. Also, I have stalled the bike about three times in the woods, but it seems like it stalled right when I got on the gas out of a hard braking turn. I still have some adjustments to do. If I dont get it right soon, it will be for sale. I'm in Bham

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I feel your pain. The first time around with mine 2 years ago the main reason I took it off was stalling which was weird because that is what it was suppose to cure. Looking back I think the problem was not enough flywheel. I had a 8 oz flywheel but took it off when I put on the clutch because I thought the clutch woudl add weigh and kind of act like a flywheel. I was wrong. I would add some flywheel maybe 8 oz, increase my set up tolerance to at least .045 and put in whatever spring will give you quik ingagement. Don't give up on it until you have it set up right and adjust your riding. You will be a convert. Call the guys at Rekluse and make them earn their money. I live in Grant which is about 75 miles north of b'ham.

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two2cool;ya snake oil, blah blah. the stuff really works well with the rekluse. reduced clutch cover temps(which has to mean reduced clutch temps) mine crept,and shuddered a little on engagement with straight delo 400.i started blending the delo with M1 redcap and it helped. but the 22c mixed with the 15-40 delo really does the trick. smoooth like silk :) and in the 3-400 miles i've ran since i started w/22c i checked the install gap and it had only changed .003" :) as far as engine wear,i just did my valves and the stuff looked brand new on the top end.

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2002 WR250F

Tried the oil types you all suggested, tried different install gaps , checked clutch alot of times but still creep and, expecially, bike stalls...

Now seem I can only try to change disks with an 3d party set and not yamaha genuine....

:crazy:

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I recently ditched the perch adjuster along the clutch lever and installed the basic adjuster with the soft spring. The clutch became so much better, very precise and predictable. I run very low stall speed which makes the bike creep just a bit but not so much that I couldn't find neutral if I wanted to.

After removing the cable the bike has never stalled. I blame the cable friction for occasional stalling, creeping and too slow clutch engagement.

By using some sort of "nylon-lock wingnut" with the basic adjuster, you could have a smarter quick adjust without the clutch cable? Although, since removing the cable I've had no need for adjusting anymore.

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What is your idle RPM? If it is too high it will creep... It should be around 2100. I have over 3000 miles on the Rekluse in my 02 YZ280f. I used Delo 400 15-40, honda friction plates. I installed Hinsen inner hub and basket about 2000 miles ago. I inspected the install last weekend and found virtually no wear. The gap was virtually unchanged (about 0.040"), the friction plates are 3.02 mm thick.... It was amazing. I had a stack of new friction plates ready to install and didn't need them.

So if you want the long term solution, go for the gusto and install the Hinsen components. The operation will be consistent and nearly maintenance free. BTW I ride a lot of trials like trails, with plenty of granite and other obstacles.

Prior to installing the Hinsen inner hub, I'd wear out the friction plates in around 300 miles...

With the exception of the Hinsen components, I just did what Rekluse recommended and never looked back.

My Rekluse setup:

MX spring, (tight enough to shift into neutral while stopped)

Honda friciton plates

Installed gap about 0.040"

Delo 400 15-40 oil

Hinsen inner hub and basket

Idle RPM 2100-2200

soak the plates in oil for at least an hour before you install them!

Hope this info is useful

RH

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For those of you that have the Honda friction plates do you also replace the plate that touches the pressure plate since it is a different part # on the YZ?

How many honda friction plates do you install since it looks like the honda only has 3 plates but the YZ has 8? Do you stick with the stock YZ clutch plates of do you use the CRF plates?

Basically part #s and quantities would be a huge help for me and I am sure others.

Thanks

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Tnks all.

Westerkulla, I think to have understand the whole meaning, but , cuz my poor english, only "ditched" I cannot translate.

You pointed me to the external engage, I'll place a pic here to show, imo the mec put the bold on wrong side so maybe the system is not well setted....in other pics I saw the second bold is on the esternal side like drawn with orange brush, let me know.

I think, like Flynall, suggest to go for a new, better if Honda, disks package.

(excuse dirt bike)

zsta.jpg

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