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Easy way to change Shock Preload XR4

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Re-post with the lost stuff last night:

What is the easy way to change preload on a 2002 XR400?

I need to relax the spring enough to add 10mm more race sag in the rear end. Want to go from 95mm to 105mm.

Do I really need to remove the subframe to do this? And then I won't be able to test my adjustment without bolting it all back together again. If I adusted too much or too little, I'll have to remove the subframe again??

There has to be an easier way! I know some people use a hammer and punch, but I imagine the lock ring is pretty tight from the factory (never been adjusted). Don't want to damage the shock.

Thanks guys.

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I had exactly this dilema a few months ago when setting my sag. I removed the subframe to get the locking ring free (used a brass blunt ended punch and a hammer while holding the adjuster ring with my spanner wrench), then turned the adjuster ring. Spray the threads with some WD-40 before you start.

Next I just snugged the locking ring with a light tap on the punch. I put the subframe back together and measured my race sag. I did not damage the locking ring or adjuster ring because the brass punch is nice and soft.

I needed to go further, and was able to tap the locking ring loose with my brass punch very easily and turn the adjuster ring with the punch as well, all without removing the subframe. It did take more time to move the adjuster ring using only the punch, but it worked. When I got my sag set right I just snugged the locking ring with a light tap of the punch and all is still good. :cry:

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I tightened my preload without removing the subframe using a hammer and large screwdriver. It was piss easy and using a bit of care hardly even marked the rings. Make sure you loosen the top one first. :cry:

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No need taking things apart. Hammer, punch or screwdriver and tap the lock nut in the proper direction. Put the bike on a stand too to get the rear wheel off the ground.

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Yeah, hammer and punch/screwdriver ought to do it. Took me a few minutes before I realized it was easier to do if I jacked the rear wheel off the ground first... Takes some of the tension off the spring... D'oh!

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yup kind of a pain to do this. but you dont have to tighten the top and side sub frame bolts all teh way. just jamb them in there good enough to keep the threads from getting smashed and hop on. definately use wd-40 to lube the threads before you start.

a hammer and a screw driver aren't the best thing to use, because the screwdriver will eventually damage the tabs on the locking rings. the brass punch idea is good, almost as good as spending $15 for the correct shock adjust tool.

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...the brass punch idea is good, almost as good as spending $15 for the correct shock adjust tool.

True, but the shock adjusting tool will not fit in the space without removing the subframe, so the brass punch is the best alternative when leaving the subframe assembled. :)

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So for all the guys using the hammer and punch method, had you ever adjusted preload before? i.e. were you able to break a factory tightened lock ring loose using this method? If the lock ring is like everthing else tightened by the factory... it is probably torqued to a gazillion foot pounds. You think I can hammer that loose without damaging the shock / lockring?

This is definitley the easy way if you can just confirm that for me. Just don't want to muck it up.

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I have another option for you guys.

Once you've tapped the lock ring loose. Just reach in there with both hands and grab the spring on both sides and turn the whole spring. The collar will turn with it. It's a piece of cake. The bike should be on a stand to get the weight off the spring.

Try it.

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Once you've tapped the lock ring loose. Just reach in there with both hands and grab the spring on both sides and turn the whole spring. The collar will turn with it. It's a piece of cake. The bike should be on a stand to get the weight off the spring.

Thats what I said before the old thread dissapeared. Its way easier than using a hammer and punch. :)

Joel

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