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How to: Remove Shock/Change Spring (with pics)

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How To: Remove rear shock/change spring (stepbystep with pics)

Well looks like we lost some posts lately so I'm going to try to recreate this one best I can. 12/02/05

*Step numbers corrispond with picture numbers. All pictures at bottom of page.* If you can't see a picture it might be this post has become outdated. Contact gyrotech@cogeco.ca and I'll send you any pics you need.

****WARNING**** Don't get to curious and let the nitrogen out of your shock. 1 it can cold burn you. 2 you can't charge it with air. 3 most dealerships don't even do nitrogen charging. Even just checking the pressure with a tire gage will let out to much nitrogen for proper function.****

Step1: Remove boot clamp from airbox side of carburator. Remove left and right lower subframe bolts. Remove both subframe bolts for exhaust pipe. Pull breather hose from topside of airbox boot.

Step2: Remove bolt for radiator overflow bottle. Loosen subframe bolt at top of subframe closest to your airbox.

Step3: Swing subframe upwards. Nothing should hold it back at this point. If so inspect, correct, and swing subframe upwards.

Step4: Remove upper shock bolt.

Step5: Do not act like child by sitting on now very unstable bike. Like this picture. Don't do as I am doing.

Step6: Remove dog bone bolts. Remove dog bones. Use air compressor/air gun to loosen bolts if you must. (never tighten bolts with an air gun). Be careful not to lose the washers on your linkage. Remove lower shock bolt.

Step7: Lift shock from bike.

Step8: There is no step 8, there is no picture 8. Use this time to have a beer or kiss the wife. Especially with your greasy dirt hands she will just love it.

Step9: Clamp lower shock mount in vice. Spray WD-40 on clamp rings to loosen up dirt. The lower shock mount is alumium so I can't stress enough, use alumium on both sides while clamping to prevent dents/damage.

Step10: Use specially made race tech clamp ring tool to loosen clamp rings. Or just use a hammer and a piece of alumium. You want the clamp rings as high up on the shock as they go without forcing.

Step11: Lift spring upwards. Give your spring seat (chunk of alumium, round, holds spring in place at bottom) a couple good taps. Spray some wd40 on it to loosen up the dirt. Now Pull it apart by holding the centre piece down and pulling the outside piece up. Take off the metal clip. Slide the outerpiece off the shock. Slide spring off shock.

Step12: Admire how everything goes together.

Your halfway done. Now that wasn't so bad was it?

Step13: First goes on the new spring. Then the outer spring seat ring. Then the metal clip. Slide spring seat back down towards clip. Spring on seat. Everything bolts back together in the opposite way you took it off. Use alittle blue loctite on all the bolts to prevent... well to prevent we will leave it at that it could be bad.

Step14: Set your preload! Turn lower clamp ring down down down till you only have just under 4 inches or 95mm of sag in the rear. This is WITH you standing on the bike. Have somebody else measure from free weight, to with you on the bike. Point of measuring could be a spot on the fender to your rear axle. Once you have the right amount of sag, hop off the bike and tighten down the upper clamp ring onto the lower one. This will stop it from moving.

Bolt your plastics back on and go for a ride. Then send a PM to gyro if you liked this install. Or you could just email me.

PICTURES:

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11a.jpg

11b.jpg

11c.jpg

11d.jpg

12.jpg

Bonus mod. Garenteed 5extra hp. Changing shock valve cap with "king chromy" or... Use "dice chromy" for that pimp look.

13.jpg

14.jpg

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Hmmm

I would like to put this in a downloadable pdf file to make it easy for someone to load up and/or print. Nice write-up.

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Gyro, nice work, but I have a point of correction. It is not necessary to remove the lower shock mount in order to remove the spring. In your picture #12, the second piece from the left is the spring seat. It is actually 3 pieces, not one.

Once you have loosened the spring by rotating the collars, you can turn the entire assembly over. Then, the outer portion of the spring seat will (may need WD40 and a light tap with a hammer) slide down (toward the top of the shock). It is held in place by a circlip that once removed, will allow the outer part of the spring seat to be removed, followed by the spring. :):)

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you need to correct that gyro.your gonna cause alot of people some real trouble.

you dont take the clevis off even to revalve the shock.

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Just to be clear, you do have to take the shock out, you just don't need to remove the lower mount to remove the spring. :)

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you need to correct that gyro.your gonna cause alot of people some real trouble.

you dont take the clevis off even to revalve the shock.

Done and done. And I take it off b/c I like my shocks rod area to be 100% clean and tidy. I like to be able to clean each part individually. Yes I supose you don't HAVE to.

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Done and done. And I take it off b/c I like my shocks rod area to be 100% clean and tidy. I like to be able to clean each part individually. Yes I supose you don't HAVE to.

thats fine as long as your chaging the fluid and planning on recharging the nitrogen.

if your just changing the shock spring as your post said,it would cause people a big head ache.

trying to slap a shock spring on for the next day ride.all of a sudden your scrambleing looking for somebody with nitrogen and a bottle of suspension fluid.

on another note to anyone reading the thread.you can remove the shock with out disturbing the subframe.

remove the muffler.take the rear dog bone bolt out.remove both shock bolts.lift the rear wheel with one hand while pulling the shock out the right side of the bike.

just some helpful tips. :)

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