Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Kickstart Install Problem

Recommended Posts

I would consider this my first major mod to the bike. I spent the last few hours installing a kickstart kit to the bike (S model). I found Mr. Cobb's instructions very helpful. However, I've got a problem. :p:D I got the bike all put back together and the kick start doesn't stop when pushing it forward -- just keeps going, and I couldn't get it to push back like it is supposed to. :) I decided to electric start it and when I did, the kickstart was slowly rotating back (counter-clockwise), and there is a pretty bad clicking noise, so I turned it off. Any ideas? Please help!!! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Obviously it is not installed correctly. Take it apart and fix it. Did you install the release finger?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there any special orientation of the gears that I need to worry about? -- when I was replacing the clutch basket, I had a hard time getting it back on due to the kicker idle gear -- I just rotated the idle gear a little bit a couple of times until the clutch went on -- is it possible I unwound the spring when I was doing this -- please help :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Help - help - Anyone??? I have a couple of questions about Mr. Cob's install.

1. I noticed he had the Kick start stopper as a left over piece when he was done -- is that piece necessary? He just installed the kick start stopper guide without the actual stopper.

2. Also, what orientation is needed for the kick starter shaft oil seal? One side is solid and the other side has a groove with what appears to be a small coil spring inside -- which side faces out? I believe Mr. Cob has the groove and the "spring" facing out -- the Suzuki manual doesn't specify. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/gallery/136763/2/4997055

3. What is the release finger Noble was talking about?

Also, I had a tossing turning night last night and am about to tear back into the bike to see what mess there is :):p .

4. Let me see if I understand correctly -- the kickstart driver gear when installed should be rotated clockwise until the kick starter hits the stop and then install the kick starter shaft spring into the hole in the crankcase? I did not do this the first time -- IS THAT MAYBE THE WHOLE PROBLEM?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you definitely need to tear into it. I have not installed a kickstarter yet but I can tell you the seal with the spring needs to go to the inside.

You might as well tear into it and see how much damage you caused by starting it when it wasn't right to start with. :)

Good luck I hope it didn't cause much damage.

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put mine in about three yrs ago and can"t recall all the steps. When I get a chance later today I"ll dig out the instructions to refresh my memory and see if I can"t help you out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, whew! Disassembled everything in record time, well at least for me. :) The only damage I see is a slight amount of wear on the teeth of the "kick starter" gear. Was obviously not completely dis-engaged from the kick starter driver gear. Now the big question -- does anyone know what is supposed to keep these two gears apart? Also, would there be any reason to replace the "kick starter" gear since it will be used for backup only -- it just barely wore the ends of the teeth -- still has 80-90% contact when fully engaged.

Also, boy am I glad you don't have to remove the retainer bracket and the idle gear to get to the kick starter shaft assembly !!! :) Without a JIS bit, I don't think you could do that very many times before stripping the screws -- not to mention I don't like using the impact driver much.

Next question, do I need to get a new crankcase cover gasket? -- the other one that was on the bike overnight came off fully intact, just a little oil stained along the bottom.

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The gasket is a personal call, if it is all you have then I'd reinstall it and make sure it doesn't leak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was it! -- They forget to tell you to verify that there is tension on the spring when you insert the end into the crankcase hole! Re-assembled everything and VOILA - IT WORKS! :) Just a little oil flush now needed to get whatever junk I inadvertently introduced into the crankcase and I'm set. BTW, upon closer inspection the kicker gear looked fine, so I just really lucked out this time. :D

Thank you very much to Mr. Cob for his great instructions and those of you who replied to this thread. I'd be much more ignorant without this forum -- You guys are the best! ;):p:D

P.S. Mr Cob did leave out the kickstart stop in his instructions (& his install) - caught this from the Zook instructions. Other than that, his instructions are MUCH better than the factory's. :)

Also, I installed a Factory Pro aluminum clutch cover and IMS Pro footpegs at the same time. The clutch cover (from Ebay for $60) is really nice and looks better than the CFC case saver for sure. A couple of you guys weren't kidding about the right side footpeg -- what a be-atch!!! :D I used one of yous (I miss that word from the east coast) advice and inserted the bolt halfway, then attached the spring at both ends, then put the bolt through all the way -- still a pain but about killed myself trying other methods to no avail. :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, whew! Disassembled everything in record time, well at least for me. The only damage I see is a slight amount of wear on the teeth of the "kick starter" gear. Was obviously not completely dis-engaged from the kick starter driver gear. Now the big question: does anyone know what is supposed to keep these two gears apart? ---Yes. What I called the release finger Suzuki calls the Kick Starter Guide and the Kick Starter Stopper (2 pieces). These 2 parts bolt on, on top of each other behind the kick starter gears and catch a finger of the sliding piece (Kick starter) and disengage the ratchet teeth. The parts are held in place by 1 screw. Use Loctite on the screw.

Also, would there be any reason to replace the "kick starter" gear since it will be used for backup only. It just barely wore the ends of the teeth. Still has 80-90% contact when fully engaged.--- I would think it would be fine. I doubt it is warn at all if you only ran it for a few seconds. We are talking the ratchet teeth not the gear teeth, right? The gear teeth do not disengage.

Also, boy am I glad you don't have to remove the retainer bracket and the idle gear to get to the kick starter shaft assembly !!! Without a JIS bit, I don't think you could do that very many times before stripping the screws -- not to mention I don't like using the impact driver much.--- You do have it on right side up? Or else the retainer will contact the back of the clutch.

Next question, do I need to get a new crankcase cover gasket? The other one that was on the bike overnight came off fully intact, just a little oil stained along the bottom.--- Sounds fine to reuse.

No extra parts this time? Got the alignment marks on the shaft and slider piece lined up? Spring preload good? Engages and disengages by hand OK before you replace the case? I have not taken a look at Mr Cobbs instructions. I prefer to use my own judgment and Suzuki book. The book is crap but the pictures show what you need to know.

JIS bit, Hmmm. Well I have heard there is such a thing but not able to verify it. I can say Phillip's bits fit differently depending on who made the bit. I have some standard #3 bits that fit perfect and some that fit poorly. The bits that come with cheapo impact drivers always seem to fit poorly. Try your local hardware store for replacement #3 Phillips 1/4 inch hex drive bits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again Noble! :)

The only parts I have left over are the ones that I'm supposed to. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
:p Good luck! Hopefully I gave you a couple more clues of things to watch out for when you do it. I admire Burned and others who tear into different engines on a daily basis. I guess we all have our little adventures in life. :) That's what keeps us entertained, right?! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks, just installed a kickstarter on a 400-s. Can anyone tell me the proper way/amount to preload the kickstart spring? I assembled it and it engaged fine but the kickstarter clicks and slowly spins backward which I think indicates the spring does not have enough preload. One turn of the spring? More? (I missed where this was mentioned in the instructions from suzuki!)

Thanks in advance

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe pm Palhaco.. He sounds like he had a similar problem...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi folks, just installed a kickstarter on a 400-s. Can anyone tell me the proper way/amount to preload the kickstart spring? I assembled it and it engaged fine but the kickstarter clicks and slowly spins backward which I think indicates the spring does not have enough preload. One turn of the spring? More? (I missed where this was mentioned in the instructions from suzuki!)

Thanks in advance

Dave

There are marks on the kickstart gear that need to be lined up, then you have to pull the spring around and get the end into the case. Its a pain in the ass but take your time and you should be able to time it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is not that hard. Read the thread fully. As just said, there are alignment marks on the shaft and ratchet that must be lined up. (That controls spring preload) Then the sping goes in to the hole in the shaft. Then the shaft assy into the case. IMPORTANT - Rotate CW to fully disengage the ratchet. Then wind the spring to fit in the case. I do not remember how much the spring winds, but you have no choice, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<quote> OK, whew! Disassembled everything in record time, well at least for me. The only damage I see is a slight amount of wear on the teeth of the "kick starter" gear. Was obviously not completely dis-engaged from the kick starter driver gear.

Also, would there be any reason to replace the "kick starter" gear since it will be used for backup only. It just barely wore the ends of the teeth. Still has 80-90% contact when fully engaged.--- I would think it would be fine. I doubt it is warn at all if you only ran it for a few seconds. </quote>

No worries man! Everytime you use the kickstart, from the time you finish the kick and the engine starts till the kick pedal gets back up to the top the ratchet is rubbing. It would take ages to actually wear it enough to matter.

<quote> JIS bit, Hmmm. Well I have heard there is such a thing but not able to verify it. I can say Phillip's bits fit differently depending on who made the bit. I have some standard #3 bits that fit perfect and some that fit poorly. The bits that come with cheapo impact drivers always seem to fit poorly. Try your local hardware store for replacement #3 Phillips 1/4 inch hex drive bits. </quote>

There are phillips bits, and there are Pozidrive bits. Once you know the difference they are night and day different, but often come in kits without any mention.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I happened to install the kickstart kit today 2. Everything works perfect starts with the first kick,comes back correctly,all parts were used ext BUT there is a small noise in the engine that wasnt there before is that normal (something like sprockets moving)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×