Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Need help - Bike dies on deceleration

Recommended Posts

Anyone had their bike die on deceleration? My 04 has done it a few times on the track, comming into the corner when I let off the gas it acts as though the kill button is pressed (completley dead, not even a sputter) but it will instantly start first kick as soon as it comes to a stop. This seems to be the only time it dies. Any suggestions? I have disconnected the kill button and still happens, maybe throttle sensor or CDI box?

Thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The owner of a local dealer told me to turn up the idle screw if that happend to me so id try that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone had their bike die on deceleration? My 04 has done it a few times on the track, comming into the corner when I let off the gas it acts as though the kill button is pressed (completley dead, not even a sputter) but it will instantly start first kick as soon as it comes to a stop. This seems to be the only time it dies. Any suggestions? I have disconnected the kill button and still happens, maybe throttle sensor or CDI box?

Thanks,

Check your valve clearances. When they start to close up the bike has a habit of cutting out in corners. It feels like it is an electrical problem but it usually is not. Once you know the clearances are right start looking elsewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that it is electrical because it will die at the end of a straight in 4th or 5th gear seems like at the instant that I shut it down to start breaking going fast and it will stay dead rolling to a stop downshifting the gears with the motor turning without even a blip until it comes to a complete stop, then as soon as Im stopped and put it in neutral - first kick it will instantly start back up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this problem seems to be developing into a common fault and is one i have spend much time and money trying to solve, i have had exactly the same fault and it started firstly every now and then and eventually was every time i started the bike, i replaced...wait for it... plug, cap, cdi, coil, flywheel, kill switch, stator, and reshimmed also stripped carbs down 4 times, still i had problem then i replaced the throttle sensor and revved the bike for two seconds and it felt like it was cured till the crank blow up and split in two! so i then replaced full crank, piston, valves, springs, oil seals, collots, rings, conrod, bearings etc and totally rebuilt bike, today i fired her up and it seems ok even revving though i need to give it a real handful to make sure it has worked, tomorrow i am going to test but couldnt say 4sure it was the sensor but fingers crossed it seemed ok today. if you can borrow a mates kx then save money and swap bits and test if your lucky because it could be any off the above and its pricey here in the uk to buy new parts. i dont think its anything to do with rejetting if your bike ran well before unless the climate has changed or your half way up a mountain 4get it, it wont be that, dont chase your tail rejetting or altering carbs, lots of reply may tell you to do this but i wouldnt. i will let you all know if my bike runs well tomorrow...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
this problem seems to be developing into a common fault and is one i have spend much time and money trying to solve, i have had exactly the same fault and it started firstly every now and then and eventually was every time i started the bike, i replaced...wait for it... plug, cap, cdi, coil, flywheel, kill switch, stator, and reshimmed also stripped carbs down 4 times, still i had problem then i replaced the throttle sensor and revved the bike for two seconds and it felt like it was cured till the crank blow up and split in two! so i then replaced full crank, piston, valves, springs, oil seals, collots, rings, conrod, bearings etc and totally rebuilt bike, today i fired her up and it seems ok even revving though i need to give it a real handful to make sure it has worked, tomorrow i am going to test but couldnt say 4sure it was the sensor but fingers crossed it seemed ok today. if you can borrow a mates kx then save money and swap bits and test if your lucky because it could be any off the above and its pricey here in the uk to buy new parts. i dont think its anything to do with rejetting if your bike ran well before unless the climate has changed or your half way up a mountain 4get it, it wont be that, dont chase your tail rejetting or altering carbs, lots of reply may tell you to do this but i wouldnt. i will let you all know if my bike runs well tomorrow...

I think that Ill buy one of everything - maybe another bike would fix it. Sorry for all the problems that youve had. Best regards keep us posted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It probably is electrical but I know that mine was cutting out in corners when I went to accelerate and it was caused by my clearances closing up below the minimum clearance. I have also read in different bike mags that one of the symptoms of valve clearances closing is the bike suddenly cutting out in corners for no reason and appearing to be an electrical fault.

Is it easy to kick over or push through it's stroke ???

I know when mine is gone just by the feel or lack of resistance in the kick starter. It wouldn't hurt to have a look and then you will know for sure that it's not related to your problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Every bike or quad using these carbs has a tendency to die on deceleration especially if it is in a really rough section according to what I have read. The problem is the fuel resevoir for the accel pump circuit goes dry on rapid decel and when you hit the gas there is no squirt so the bike dies from leaning out. As soon as the bike stops the bowl fills up and you are good to go. Just what I have read elsewhere. They sell a spacer to make the resevoir for the pump circuit deeper as a fix. Ours does it so rarely I haven't been concerned enough to spend the bucks yet to see if it works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It probably is electrical but I know that mine was cutting out in corners when I went to accelerate and it was caused by my clearances closing up below the minimum clearance. I have also read in different bike mags that one of the symptoms of valve clearances closing is the bike suddenly cutting out in corners for no reason and appearing to be an electrical fault.

Is it easy to kick over or push through it's stroke ???

I know when mine is gone just by the feel or lack of resistance in the kick starter. It wouldn't hurt to have a look and then you will know for sure that it's not related to your problem.

The bike is easy to kick thru, I thought that it had a built in compression release. The bike starts very easy - mostly on the first kick without kicking very hard hot or cold. The reason why I thought it was electrical is because it will actually cut out on a straight when letting off in top gear and roll all the way to a stop with the engine turning while downshifting without even a hint of life to it, then as fast as I can put it in neutral it will start like nothing happened :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

same thing on my '04. Testing diverent OEM CDIs (some -0024 and some -0038) fixed the problem. It was not just the change from 0024 to 0038. Of the 7 CDIs i testet, everyone felt different - from stall to no-stall, from mutch overrev to no-overrev, from hit in mid to no hit :)

Best one was a -0024 :)

Hagen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The bike is easy to kick thru, I thought that it had a built in compression release. The bike starts very easy - mostly on the first kick without kicking very hard hot or cold. The reason why I thought it was electrical is because it will actually cut out on a straight when letting off in top gear and roll all the way to a stop with the engine turning while downshifting without even a hint of life to it, then as fast as I can put it in neutral it will start like nothing happened :)

These bikes arn't hard to kick when everything is where it should be but you will feel a fair bit of resistance when you slowly push down on the kick starter. If it is moving through it's stroke fairly easily especially when approaching top dead centre then you may be losing compression through the valve clearances being closed up.

What "4strokesrule" said makes a lot of sense as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Every bike or quad using these carbs has a tendency to die on deceleration especially if it is in a really rough section according to what I have read. The problem is the fuel resevoir for the accel pump circuit goes dry on rapid decel and when you hit the gas there is no squirt so the bike dies from leaning out. As soon as the bike stops the bowl fills up and you are good to go. Just what I have read elsewhere. They sell a spacer to make the resevoir for the pump circuit deeper as a fix. Ours does it so rarely I haven't been concerned enough to spend the bucks yet to see if it works.

That sound pretty right. Mine has a very slight tendency to hesitate when it lands heavily from a big jump I figured it was the fuel in the bowl moving away and not being picked up correctly. It is only minor and only occurrs when I really smack something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi,

same thing on my '04. Testing diverent OEM CDIs (some -0024 and some -0038) fixed the problem. It was not just the change from 0024 to 0038. Of the 7 CDIs i testet, everyone felt different - from stall to no-stall, from mutch overrev to no-overrev, from hit in mid to no hit :p

Best one was a -0024 :)

Hagen

Sounds like my problem is the CDI box, thanks for the info- got any extras you want to sell :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×