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Got the WR250F . . . Now What?

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Kudos to everyone on this forum that has provided feedback to help me make my choice to buy the new 05 WR250F. I will be picking the bike up from the dealer next week and have a few questions that a few people can answer (I hope).

Can the dealer do the mods that most people often do for the WR or would it void warranty? I definitely could do them myself but I was curious if anyone has had the dealer do mods, especially the WR throttle stop replacement with a YZ throttle stop.

After doing the mods, what else do you recommend for enhancements / protection? Should I add a skid plate and rad guards before hitting the trails?Since I'm new to riding, I'm sure I'll hit the trails (no pun intended) often.

Thanks again to eveyone on the forum helping us newbies out!!

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Warranty is only 30 days. If the bike runs and stops and nothing falls off, that's all that matters.

The only part of the warranty that may be voided by law are things directly affected by aftermarket mods (look up Magnusson/Moss). If your engine throws the rod, sucks a valve, or grenades the tranny, that is not impacted by the free mods and would still be covered.

The suspension in no way would be affected. Basically, the only thing the free mods affect directly would be the grey wire's affect on the CDI. If the CDI fails, they could reject a claim on that.

The mods take two hours max if you don't know what you're doing, and the second bike will take a half hour.

I wouldn't trust the dealer to change the oil unless you are personal friends with the mechanic. I've had too many vehicles worked on that I've had to "fix" soon after. Toyota dealer left my radiator cap off after changing an exhaust manifold. Private garage left an exhaust bracket loose after doing the clutch. My Fords were endless problems. Took one in for a timing belt change and $500 later it came out with a leaking water pump.

Order the YZ screw... I paid $10 for mine. You'll need a 4mm allen key to change it, plus, IIRC, a 3.5mm key to remove the cover (not needed, but makes it easier to see what you're doing).

Don't try to use your "good" ball-end Bondhus allen key... you'll need a short one, so grab a cheapie 4mm from the 99c store and cut it off short.

The exhaust plug is a matter of removing 6 allen screws from the end cap, drill out two rivets, yank the insert with pliers, then put the endcap back on.

The airbox snorkel is easier with a buddy. Remove the seat... two screws and slide it forward and up. Remove the battery (rubber strap). Pry the front of the opening forward with a screwdriver while your buddy pulls the snorkel as it clears the pop rivets.

Now that the seat is off, make sure the petcock is off, pull the fuel line from the carb, and remove the tank. That's one rubber strap and two screws (after the shrouds are pulled).

There are two things to do here. First, locate the connector on the right side and remove the grey wire. Now, loosen the screws holding the carb to the airbox and head, then rotate the carb so the top moves toward the shifter.

Use the 3mm or 3.5mm allen key to remove the top cover. Use the 4mm key to remove the screw that you see inside of the black plastic slide. Be careful... there's a screw, washer, and a spring under the washer. The washer is cupped, and usually holds onto the spring, but be aware that it's there... dropping it into the carb without knowing it can ruin your day.

Now you'll see the end of the jet needle. Carefully remove this with a pair of needle nose pliers. See the clip? Note the groove that it's in. Pop it off. Reinstall it one-groove closer to the pointed/long end of the needle.

Put it back in, put the spring/washer/screw back in, reinstall the cover, rotate the carb back into place, then tighten everything back up.

Reinstall the tank, seat, shrouds and go ride.

You may want to mess with the accelerator pump or fine-tune the jetting later. Mine runs pretty good, with only a little popping on deceleration, and only bogs if I slam the throttle WFO from idle.

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You didn't need to re-jet after all the mods?! :) . Just put the needle clip 1 groove closer to the center?

I'll probablly do the same on mine when I'll have it........in 6 months!

I did the snorkel/baffel/re-jet on my 230 and oh my! what a boost! :)

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A rejet would certainly be optimal and should be on the long-term plans, but not totally required with the basic mods at sea level.

What would require the rejet would be if you go to an aftermarket pipe, replace the air filter with the flameproof style and open up the backfire screen, or install a YZ cam.

The factory setting for the clip has been moved down a notch or two from the '03/'04 setting. Instead of moving from #3 to #4, you are now moving from, IIRC, #5 to #6... only one groove remains.

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Not sure about over there, but in Australia when you purchase the bike it comes with a replacement throttle screw which they fit at assembly plus a double sided A4 sheet telling you how to open up the airbox, exhaust and what setting to put the needle into the carb after all the mods. So i can't see how they could void your warrenty if they show you how to do it.

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[...lots of good info...]

rich,

you just pointed out of the newbie club.

welcome to the matrix. :) :) :p

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

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A couple of other things you may want to do: Take the rubber crankcase vent tube that runs down the outer left side of frame and move it so it goes down the center of the frame. The stock location is bad because sticks and things can come in and pull it back causing a kink like a garden hose, This is bad as crankcase pressure will try to pop out something you don't want popped out. Remove your sealed tube at the bottom of your airbox and replace it with a XR 600 tube which will drain if you get water in your air box. The correst throttle stop screw length is 20mm for the shaft I bought a YZF screw and measured it. Set your sag for your weight. Ride it like you stole it. :):)

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welcome to the matrix.

Thank you Morpheus :)

Now I need to get as good on the trail as I am at learning and processing information :)

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A couple of other things you may want to do: Take the rubber crankcase vent tube that runs down the outer left side of frame and move it so it goes down the center of the frame.

Another thing some guys are doing is inserting a "T" fitting into it and running a higher line either into the airbox or up under the tank.

The problem with the breather is if you stall in water, it WILL suck water into your engine when you restart. You can't put a check valve (PCV) into it because it's a single cylinder engine. You can't run the entire line into the airbox because it'll eventually fill with oil... it does need to be able to drain.

Running a T with a second line will allow it to breathe from either end, so if the lower line is submerged, it will "inhale" through the high line. Oil can still drain from the lower line.

While you're at it, the two top carb bowl vents should be routed into the airbox. See www.thumperfaq.com and the section on swap-proofing. If ALL of the pink lines under the carb are submerged, you'll suck water into the bowl.

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Wrooster, would i still qualify for the newbie club, or no?

if you have to ask the price... :)

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

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now for the "WORKS Hint of the Day" :)

use a small tie wrap to permanently attach your rubber rear gas tank strap to the frame. this way when you (ahem!) forget to cinch it back on and then ride off, it won't disappear on a rocky trail somewhere in pennsylvania. later, you'll find out that it costs an enormous amount of money from the dealer compared to what it must be to actually make. so, this 15 cent tie wrap is well worth it.

http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/motomisc6/DSCN0548_sm.jpg

this WORKS Hint of the Day has been brought to you by:

jim aka the "i lost my rubber strap and i'm not afraid to admit it" wrooster

'01 wr250f

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Thanks for all the hints. Nice write-up Rich.

I've managed so far to make the following modifications on the bike

- Exhaust Baffle

- Grey Wire

- Changed to a YZ throttle stop

I noticed a significant difference in the power on the high end. The low end seems a little sluggish but I'm not sure if this is typical of the stock WR's. Is there any other free mods or other cheap mods that I can do to open up the low end? Should I tackle the airbox next? What about the YZ timing? I'm becoming more familiar with the bike after the free modifications but I wouldn't consider myself a motorcycle mechanic. Hopefully someone can recommend a few more simple things that I can do to open up the hidden YZ in my WR.

Thanks for the help!!!

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