Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Reassemble Shock help

Recommended Posts

I need a little help getting my shock back together.

My brother helped me take it apart to change the oil, everything went fine. He has done it before with his shock (WR450) but this one was slightly different. we now have it upside down in a vice, added oil, put the bladder back in and charged it. With his he said that he simply pushed down quickly on the piston to expell the air then pulled back up on it and the oil was sucked back down. when we do that we get a suction which makes it almost impossible to pull it back up. What are we doing wrong???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I need a little help getting my shock back together.

My brother helped me take it apart to change the oil, everything went fine. He has done it before with his shock (WR450) but this one was slightly different. we now have it upside down in a vice, added oil, put the bladder back in and charged it. With his he said that he simply pushed down quickly on the piston to expell the air then pulled back up on it and the oil was sucked back down. when we do that we get a suction which makes it almost impossible to pull it back up. What are we doing wrong???

I agree with Burned, your rebound clicker needs to be backed out when you bleed out the piston. Also, it sounds to me like you have the bladder in and charged with nitrogen before you have the seal head in the shock body. You have to be more complete in your explaination of what you have done. After your all done and you compress the shock it should rebound fully on its own. If it doesnt, you have not adequately bled the shock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there has to be a little nitrogen in the bladder while bleeding.once your ready to push the seal head down you bleed off the nitrogen.the seal head will go down as you do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, guys. The clickers were all the way out

My brother figured it out, I don't know what it is called but there is a pin that goes down the center of the piston, he removed the pin all kinds of pressure released. reinserted it closed it up we were then able to get all the air out and finish the assembly.

Thanks :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had that happen before. I think it is caused from blowing the shaft out with compressed air. Glad you got it straightened out. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

    • By 4strokeOnly
      My bike was stolen, so I'm liquidating my spare parts. 
      I took this off my S and replaced it with an SM unit so my speed would be more accurate with the street wheel setup.  I no longer need this spare.  I greased it regularly and it was in good working order when I removed it.  Included is only what is pictured.  Cable not included.
      Suzuki part number:  54600-29F00
      buyer pays shipping.
×