regular care and feeding of the TE-510

(God I'm realy not liking the spell check feature. I just typed out a long post and and spell checked it but the IE crash got me.)

My post was I am enjoying my 510 and I like working on it. Each night I do one or two things....I'm sure over time I won't be in the garage every night falling over myself, but I will weekly or more regularly find one or two things to check and do on the bike. I think regular care and feeding will keep the wolf at top performance levels and make for a good bike and the maintenance items won't back up on me.

Tonight while installing some battery tender leads. I discovered that filter is pretty open to getting wet in a spray wash situation which I had done Sunday. I stopped by a coin wash with the bike still muddy in back of the truck and sprayed the bike down to get the mud off then came home and finshed the clean up. anyway found some water moisture on the top part of the air filter....... so I'll know not to spray wash up high on the bike.

yes my point is. I llke wrenching on this bike. its a quality machine. I'm not a strong mechanic, but taken a little each day/ week I'll learn, have fun and keep the bike in top shape. tommorow night I'll change the oil again and check the tightness of some bolts and spokes. I finished reading the manual last night too.

I like working on my Husky :)


Husky air box is a pretty open affair. If you pull your side panels you'll see what I mean. Back East in the very wet world we tape up the sides to help keep it dry. When you wash the bike... pop the seat, put a plastic bag on air filter and put seat back on. Just remenber to take of bag off when your done!


(God I'm realy not liking the spell check feature. I just typed out a long post and and spell checked it but the IE crash got me.)

Get IE Spell :) :)

Hey Big Bob, what kind of oil is everybody using in the husky's?


Just remenber to take of bag off when your done!


I forgot once and funny thing is it ran OK until the higher rev. I was like "whats going on" until I notice the bag. I would have thought it would not even start so i did not look there first.

morning, check the valves once in a while, they are easy too.


Torco T-4 10-40 motorcycle 4 stroke oil is waht the Husky dealer sold me.

yeah Ride, I didn't mean for this post to try and list all the regular stuff i plan to do..BUT Valve clearnaces is very high on my radar list of things to check regularly. I learned valve checking on my DRZ and I understand the husky is easier, but I may miss the crankshaft nut and sight glass I had on my DRZ to reach TDC...reading the Husky manual I am to roll the bike forward till TDC is reached....that seems a little micky mouse doesn't it?

who's complaining not me - Love my bike.

Hey have you guys shipped my rad guards yet and my rear brake guard? tell them rooster employees to get on with it. .......j/k :)

Hey Bob, That's some good oil. I worked for Torco for 2 1/2 years when I lived down in Orange County, they make a really good product.

oil change #2 after 4 hours of operation: still some major metal fragments and grit in both screens and on the drain plug magnet. More grit then the first oil change after 30 mins operation on day one.

But this time the oil itself looked much better then that first goop. I hope the metal shavings and grit are gone for oil change #3.

Did you warm the motor up this time? It's just some of what was missed on your first cold oil change.. :) Hey if you sell the DRZ I'll buy your shim kit for the chopper.. :) See you tomorrow

yes warmed it up. bought some handy new tools too. warming it up will help the oil drain fully, but I dont see that adding more grit to the screens ..once the grit is trapped in the screens and attached to the drain plug magnet..its staying there. I just bet my break in ride at prarie city didn't get it all done, didnt shake n bake the engine enough. After the good couple rides at GT that got the remaining grit exposed to the screens and magnet.........hopefully.........don't want to see that stuff everytime :) .

the oil itself looked much better, so I'm seeing improvement :)


Don't worry about the grit. Euro bikes still really "break in". I know the first few oil changes looking at the screens the screens kind of... even if you expect it.


There always seems to be a lot of confusion re oil.

Here is my take: I have always used diesel oil in all my bikes cars 4wd's etc.

Everything gets the same shite. The only rule: change the oil often.

My 93Te610 (Morta Blanca) has 24'000klms of all sorts of riding/local enduro racing.

2 years in Ecuador/Peru crossing the Andes. (Often 2up)

I put any oil I could find during these long trips. Truck oil is easy to find everywhere.

BUT NEVER more then 1000klm's on an oil change.

The only engine work has been a new set of rings at 16'000k's.

I'm sure some oil is better then others, but when there is only 1 liter in the engine changing the oil often is the golden rule.

1993 Te610

1993 BMW R100GsPd

Change often is certainly a very good idea, but there is no way I'd use diesel oil, truck oil, or anything else that wasnt close to the right spec in a racing engine.

The oil companies spend millions testing oil to develop better products to prevent wear. Modern synthetics can virtually eliminate wear from a warm engine. It's all there ready to use...

Peter :)

Did you read the manual? Husky calls for AGIP 4T 10W-60 oil. If you do a little research, you will find that is an Italian full synthetic, that is about $15 a quart if you can find it in the US.

I was going to run Castrol 20W-50 (same oil I have put in every bike I have ever owned) in my TE-250 until I read this. If Husky specifically mentions a full synthetic with a large viscosity range in the manual, then that should be what you run. Probably 10W-40 truck oil is not what you should be using.

I chose to use Mobil red cap - 15W-50.


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