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Do I have to go to MMI to change the oil?

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Ok, so I wanted to change the oil tonight. Now keep in mind that I have owned 3 sportbikes and 3 quads in my life to date. This is the first dirtbike for me, plus being a WR it is the first vehicle with a sump setup. So I get out the BillyWho thinking this is all I really need. Well suprise, suprise, I had no idea that I had to take out bolts from everywhere just to change the oil.

So, do I really need to take the oil hose off from below the sump to look at the screen? What are some other tips that will make this job quicker since I had to take the skid plate off even see the oil line?

Now I can see how so many people screw this up and add crazy amounts of oil. Oh and I was using the manual even though it is a little hard to understand at times. Maybe I should just sign up for MMI and get it over with.

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To be honest, I would not bother with the oil line screen behind the stone guard. I have an 02 WR and never looked at it because I always considered it to be a pain in the ass to get to. Last week when doing an oil change my concience got the better of me so I checked it. What a waste of time that was, :p after 3 years of riding there was not one peice of dirt in the screen. Having said this I do change my oil very regularly, like every 200km or after every race. I have converted my WR to a YZ and race MotoX :):) .

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The reason you need to check the frame screen is to look for any gasket sealant that got slopped into the bike during assembly. I found a big ole bugar in mine. The mesh itself is too large to capture anything but big stuff, so unless you blow an engine or tranny chances are you wont ever find anything.

Just draining the oil with the frame drain bolt is insufficient as that leaves oil in the oil line. A much more convenient and complete way to drain the frame oil is to drain it from the oil line that runs to the engine under the water pump. just loosen that and pull it away from the motor a bit and it will fully drain the frame and that oil line.

Either get a SS oil filter or just use a brass filter from an 02 yzf. Both will let you clean them and save $10 each time. I change my oil every ride day, and twice if it's a real dusty ride.

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It's not really a newbee thing here, just new to this motor and bike. If you only knew how easy it is to change the oil on a R6, 1 external filter and 1 oil drain plug and your all done. The thumpers oil change covers like 4 or 5 pages in the service manual. Oh well, either way the BillyWho man funnel really does work and gets the oil to flow where you want it.

I will probably go with the SS filter later this summer too. To many other things to get right now.

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/this is where Wrooster comes in and reminds me that I was a newbie a short 8 months ago, too. :)

Only been riding for 8 months or only had a chance to change the WRs oil for 8 months?!

Don't tell me I've been riding longer then Dr. Love! :p:D:D:o

Just bustn ur balz! I don't actually change my own oil. My hubby does that for me in trade for other small favors! :)

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What I would suggest is to drain the lines and check the screen behind the skid plate once every 6 months or so. Make sure you check it right away after a re-build or on a new bike. The rest of the time, just drain the oil through the drain plugs. :)

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You never have to check the screen unless you split the cases (or its new)

I think draining the lines is a waste of time. When I change the oil, before putting the plug back on the frame, I crank the engine over with the decomp held in about kicks. Slow kicks too, not super fast.

Plus a little bit of oil sloshing around in over a quart of oil. Who cares. If you change the oil often enough it shouldnt effect anything.

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I think draining the lines is a waste of time. When I change the oil, before putting the plug back on the frame, I crank the engine over with the decomp held in about kicks. Slow kicks too, not super fast.

QUOTE]

Ya, I always did that on all my bikes. It does get a little more oil out of the motor. Except I had to use the start button on the street bikes and hold the off button at the same time.

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I think draining the lines is a waste of time. When I change the oil, before putting the plug back on the frame, I crank the engine over with the decomp held in about kicks. Slow kicks too, not super fast.

I'm curious, what do you think kicking the bike over slowly does for it? You may want to consider that draining the oil line is in fact part of the procedure in the manual. They dont think it's a waste of time, and it's easier than draining the frame bolt by far.

Plus a little bit of oil sloshing around in over a quart of oil. Who cares. If you change the oil often enough it shouldnt effect anything.

Thats sad really. The youth of our times, so lazy, so lazy. :)

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If the bike has been sitting for a long time all the oil will drain out of the frame into the crankcase. You won't get any oil out of the frame. However, the dirt will also settle and may not get out. It is best to warm the bike. Then follow the manual. The frame is easy to drain if you keep the bolt in the stream to keep it from shooting out. The frame strainer should be looked at after break in and probably every third oil change or so. I've not found anything in mine. I still do the little pipe also as it is not all that hard.

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I know this sounds crazy but, how is it that you get the hose bolt off? Are you guys using a very large wrench or somehow pulling the hose off and using a deep well socket. The book only tells you that it takes 50ft lb's of tq to reinstall the bolt. It does not really show how to remove it. :)

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Why should I have to take off my skidplate just to get a little bit of oil out?

I change mine often enough I could probably drain out the frame and just clean the filter and still be fine.

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I looked at the frame oil filter screen once and it turned a ten minute job into a half hour. It was absolutely spotless. What a complete waste of time that was. You want to check it when the bike is new and after a engine rebuild or something similar with major engine work. other than that just drain it from the drain bolts in the frame and case then add the new stuff with the proper amount and a new oil filter.

Doug

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