crf 450 conversion help

ok guys i need some help

2002 crf 450

i converting this bike for street not going to race it i have my wheels and tires

any tips on stator/flywheel .. what exactly will i need for electrical system and who has the deals on them

also wiil get into the brakes ans suspension next month

i know this topic has been beaten into the ground but any help will be appreciated

call me at my store tomorrow (Fort Collins Motorsports) and ill get you everything you need. will you also need a head light, turn signals, rear brake, etc? write down what you need and get back to me.



Ive got another option, and i apologize if I should not be doing this...but. I have the Dakar dual sport kit for the CRF450. Had it on my CA bike, but only used it once. I do not know of the battery in the unit even works anymore, but I would be willing to sell it for pretty cheap.

The only thing that you would need would be a stator (from Ricky Stator) and with at least one output, and you would be set.

The kit removes rediculously easily, and includes a banjo bolt for your rear brake M/C to operate the brake light.

Let me know, and I will take a picture of the kit.

I no longer need it since I was unable to reg it for the street in CA, ended up going through VT, and since have bought a CA street legal DRZ400S. The parts have been sitting in a box for over 2 years. The wires were obviously on the bike the entire time, so they look used, but the headlight assembly and taillight look like they came right from the package. As an FYI - the Dakar kit has all electronics located in the headlight assembly. You just connect everything up from there.


I used a trail tech flywheel and a rewound stator in combination with a Baja Designs kit on my 03 CRF. At first I just used the rewound stator and that was not enough to power everything. The combo of the flywheel and stator give about 100 watts which is fine.


Yeah, adding some weight to the flywheel, baja designs style, was the way i went. it slows down the way the bike revs up, and lets you manage the power a bit more, as well as making the bike idle a little smoother. at the very least, a new flywheel from baja has better magnets than the stock one and will help generate more juice. the rewound stator from baja adds a lighting coil, so you can then produce some juice for the headlight.

once you've gotten that, you'll have to figure out if you want your bike to be strictly AC or both. AC means that you don't have a battery, and your lights will dim a bit at intersections, although the flywheel weight lessens this. there are wiring diagrams on the baja site.

you can then purchase a kit, and then proceed to change all the ugly crap that the kit comes with, or build your own up from scratch, which is actually very easy to do if you have a basic electrical knowledge (and the determination to get your bike on the street). you can also shoot any problems up here, as someone will always have the answer. i used a flasher relay off an R6 as well as the left instrument cluster on the left clip on (switches for horn, high, low beam, turnsignals), and opened it up and rewired it (very simple to do) and then its just a matter of running a little wire here and there, and connecting up your grounds.

i'd really recommend building this up yourself for a couple reasons. the first is that you really develop an intimate knowledge of the bike, and secondly, you don't have to spend too much money on a kit, and then spend extra to change everything else on it to make it look good to you.

i'd recommend looking at a couple of things like an acerbis LED taillight, use a KTM brake light switch (pressure switch) off your front brake lever's banjo bolt to trigger the taillight, use that flasher relay and control cluster from an R6, and buy some turn signals you like and wire it all up. you can use something like a trailtech computer, and a folding acerbis mirror, and then buy the headlight that you like best. if you want to add a key, then you can pick up an ignition and have the key somewhere out of the way like attached to the airbox.

the kit comes with all that and the wiring, but wiring is so easy to run. if you're planning on switching bodywork between dirt and street modes like i do, i used color coded heat shrink at the connectors at the front and back of the bike to ease the swap, and made the connections at the airbox and head tube. if you're planning on swapping, i'd recommend a complete second brake system for the street, so that you only have to undo a couple bolts at the top and bottom to change your lever, caliper, and line, so you don't have to bleed your brakes every time you swap.

as for suspension, if you're planning on using it in the dirt, i wouldn't bother lowering the suspension. just set it up to full stiff and you're ready.

do it yourself. if you can shim your valves, you can definitely wire the bike yourself; shimming was a little trickier to learn for me. just think of it like you've got power that starts from the stator, runs along a wire, and and then has to go into whatever you want to be powered, and then the power has to run to the ground.

good luck either way though.

whats the best weight flywheel to use

your 02 has at stock an 22 ounce flywheel.

this is where i picked mine up, and they make the following heavier weights: +5, +7, +9, +11, +13. the +13 means you have to add 22 oz. to it to get the overall weight. i went with the +7.

the differences in weights have zero influence on the wattage generated by the stator rewind, since they all have the same magnets, but the extra weights change the way that the bike develops its power. the 13 will make it much slower revving, and the flywheel has a bit more momentum at idle and at quick on/off gas will be a little slower.

basically i didn't go with the 13 because you have to slightly modify the inside of the case cover to fit it.

the heavier the weight the less snappy or jerky the power delivery is, and jerky power is a little tricky to deal with in wheelie situations. i'd look at the 7 or the 9 personally. this bike still pumps out the juice fast and revs quick, but for wheelies, it just mellows out the motor when you're cracking the throttle a little bit and makes it easier to ride the balance point. it cuts down on wheel spin a bit from launches; i guess what i'm trying to say is that this is a f***ing powerful bike, and the flywheel upgrade makes it just a bit more rideable. if you want to keep it snappy, go with the 5 oz.

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