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Which Cam?

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I have finally decided I am going to get a cam for my 150 and I have narrowed it down to 3 manufacturers and 4 cams. Which one would you guys recommend?

My bike: stock engine, 110 main, stock needle-clip in 4th position, TwinAir filter, airbox screen removed, Big Gun Race Series exhaust and Rev Box.

The cams in no particular order: (all info taken from each companies website)

#1-Crower Power ".260" lift grind has a nice lower end from stock cam but the mid range just explodes and it revs out for what seems forever. This beast has over 1000 more RPM on every shift. This cam installs easy and lashes at .008" intake and exhausts. Recommended with the Big Gun exhausts system available @ our online store" Price $165 Core fee $80

#2-Megacycle Stage I OK with stock springs. Torque cam. (intake/exhaust)valve lift .332"/.323", duration at .040" 232deg./237deg., lobe centers 102deg./106deg., intake open/close 13btc/39abc, exhaust open/close 44bbc/13atc Price $148 Hardfaced cam on customer core.

#3-Megacycle Stage II OK with stock springs. All around mid-range. (intake/exhaust) valve lift .356"/.341", duration at .040" 243deg./247.5deg., lobe centers 102deg./106deg., intake open/close 18.5btc/44.5abc, exhaust open/close 49.5bbc/18btc Price $148 Hardfaced cam on customer core.

#4-Web Cam Good all around cam for stock or modified engines. (intake/exhaust) valve lift .340"/.320", duration at .050 220deg./234deg., Hard weld. Price $128 Core fee $65

Thanks in advance for advice/suggestions.

Cheers, :)

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All four options that you listed are are available from respected companies and I'm sure are of the highest quality, however none of them put together any type of proven performance package for your bike.

I would contact Coeshow or Frank at Engines Only to see what they reccomend...Karl

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those are all very good cams. i have had best results with powroll cam for the crf150. ( powroll.com ) the rev bow you are using as with all others can increase throttle responce and power. but it eliminates the rev limimter completely. be careful. this will allow the engine to over rev causing valve float and then KABOOM!!!. this happened to me and it was not pretty. her is what i am running. powroll 66mm bore piston, powroll 4mm over stroke crank, 28mm kehin carb (cr85 carb) M4 full exhaust, powroll cam, stock ignition box, k&n tapered cone filter (no air box), lightened fly wheel, no head work yet. My jetting is 35 pilot (still a little rich) 102 main, 3.5 out on the air screw, 4th position down on the needle. this is making 21 hp with 16.4 lbf. torque @7500 rpm. nuthin but wheelies and almost to hard to drive.

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I could really use more cam than my BBR. It works great in the mid range, but craps out after that. Top end pull is barely adequate enough to keep the front end in the air through third gear. Basicly the engine is done making good power at 7500-8000 rpm. I would love for it to pull hard all the way to the OEM rev limiter.

BBR does not publish their cam specs. :)

oh, this is on a 230!!

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I have the powroll cam, which i think has the highest lift of all cams. The best part of the powroll cam is it takes the stock springs and rockers. I have the 9.5mm stroker, 170 kit, powroll cam, powroll exhuast, 28mm carb, k&n filter, BBr rev Box, and it runs on VP110. I have tons more mods but that is the basics. And ive had no problems. Your not supposed to use the rev box with the stroker but i never have it wide open anyway. If i was you i would get the Powroll Cam and 12:1 comp piston. But you have to run race fuel.

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The Powroll cam is @ .365" lift. The BBR cam is in this same area. The BBR cam I have seen was modified by grinding down the "base circle" of the cam to achieve greater lift and duration. While this process does work, it is harder on the valve train, with increased stress on your rocker pads. There are many other cams to choose from Web and Megacycle with higher lifts. Anything more than @ .375" lift will coil bind the stock springs. If you purchase Hi-performance springs that are wound with smaller wire, and have decided to go with a cam with more than @.375" valve lift, you then will need to check for valve retainer to valve guide clearance. You will need to modify the guides for clearance or install custom guides.

My "Ultra" cam is right at .400" lift. Head work is needed for use.

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Did u make the cam or did u buy it. Also what head work needs done. Like what all do u need. Sy for highjacking this thread 04CRF150F#319.

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04HondaCRF150F,

I had the cams custom ground to my specs from new cores, so in essesnce I bought them twice. The cams are welded up and then precision ground with higher lift and longer duration. To achieve more power you need more cam. Flow bench testing, computer modeling, and of course dyno tests offer so much data that you can "formulate" what cam profile will work for the application and RPM level to achieve the power you're after. Seat of the pants is also very important to the end results.

Depending on just how much lift and duration you are after will dictate how much other head modification you will need to do. My cams necessitate a custom intake guide, and some valve face mods so that the valves do not hit each other at overlap. You need to check valve to piston clearance as well.

A port job helps when installing a big cam as well!!

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