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CS oil leak

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Well long story short, my counter shaft nut came loose. Then oil started pouring out, mostly onto my rear tire (while riding on the street in sm trim).

Upon inspecting the suspect area I notices a sleeve on the CS that had moved outward on the splines, is this where my oil leak could have come from, probably. Has anyone run into this before? It seems like a pretty severe design flaw. Thats my story, thanks for your input.

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Same thing happened to me. I blame it on me not keeping it tight and/or

a combination of crap collecting behind the sprocket.

My sleeve didn't move like yours, just nicked the seal when sprocket came loose.

www.ronayers.com

Hit the microfiche and order the 5 or so parts you need, easy replacement job.

Hopefully you don't have internal damage, mine was fine after a patch up.

I would use some loctite on the CS nut when you patch it up.

Do a search here for more info and part numbers.

Well long story short, my counter shaft nut came loose. Then oil started pouring out, mostly onto my rear tire (while riding on the street in sm trim).

Upon inspecting the suspect area I notices a sleeve on the CS that had moved outward on the splines, is this where my oil leak could have come from, probably. Has anyone run into this before? It seems like a pretty severe design flaw. Thats my story, thanks for your input.

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I dont think that anything needs to be replaced, except the nut, it was stripped to all hell. But I pushed the sleeve back in and fired it up, horrible leak gone, for good hopefully. How bad of a job is the seal if I have to change it?

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Its an easy job, 1 or 2 beers if that.

I replaced 4-5 small parts including the spacer & seal. Was cheap & easy.

Consensus is loctite & 50-70lbs on the CS nut. On my last swap it

didn't come off so easy, needed a cheap $6 gear puller. Id rather do that

then have the bastard get loose on me again. I also put loctite on the

sprocket splines per other TTers advice. No issues, been many miles.

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If it loosened up enough to leak you really should replace the seal, you may have gotten really lucky but then again maybe your luck all got used up with the oil on your rear tire and not throwing it away.

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The CS nut is the one that holds the front sprocket on? If so, how can it come loose? Doesn't the flat bend in the washer keep it from loosening?

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The CS nut is the one that holds the front sprocket on? If so, how can it come loose? Doesn't the flat bend in the washer keep it from loosening?

No.... you need to take it off and clean the nut and splines lwith carb or parts cleaner and then RED locktite the nut and washer. :)

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You are treading in an area of 1000 opinions. Yes, the nut comes loose. Forget why, it just does and the lock tab washer will not prevent it. Fix is to Loctite the splines and the nut. Very reliable fix.

Your oil leak was because there is an "O" ring inside the spacer that moved out on the shaft. When it moves, the "O" ring moves to the splines. That seal has oil pumped to it so oil pressure helps to move the spacer out. If your leak is gone with everything back in place, you are good to go. If not, replace the seal and "O" ring and the spacer if it has a groove warn in it or is corroded. Did you start it with the sprocket off? Usually what happens is oil pressure moves the spacer and you get a very big immediate leak.

When you tighten the countershaft nut, check for free rotation of the countershaft (in neutral). If it binds at all, you have internal problems and the transmission may lock-up it you run it like that.

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This is good to know. I recently changed the stock sprocket to 14T. I remember people saying the sprocket was prone to loosening, and I was planning on putting loc-tite on. But when I saw the flat bent washer, I figured there's no why that nut could work itself loose. I guess I'll have to take it off again and loc-tite it.

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Loctite on the splines is the most important part. After that I don't care what you do. Right way is: Loctite the splines, Loctite the nut, tighten 50 to 70 ft lb, bend the lockwasher and check for free rotation of the CS.

I recommend hi strength red Loctite. Some others prefer lower strength blue. The important thing is some form of Loctite on the splines to lock the sprocket solid to the shaft. Yes, it can be a little troublesome to remove later but gentle pry will do it or an inexpensive gear puller.

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and check for free rotation of the CS.

Does that mean, put it in gear and see if the sprocket will rotate? What is the purpose of this test?

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The reason mine came loose is that the threads on the nut are stripped, gone, nothing there at all any more. I wasnt the one who put this sprocket on, that was the previous owner, he probably stripped it when installing it too tight. The lock washer tabs were bent properly so that there is no way it could have turned loose. The splines and threads on the CS look fine, so all that got ruined was my sprocket and CS nut. I started it with no sprocket, but after I had pushed the spacer back into place, and no oil was coming out, so I think I'm ready to roll. Thanks for all the help.

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The lock washer tabs were bent properly so that there is no way it could have turned loose.
your wrong there, it will come loose even with the lock washer bent in place. Constant rocking of the css cause it to break loose. Thats why noble says to locktite the spines even if they look fine.

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If you guys are really going to red loctite that's what I'll use. I usally just tighten mine up with the air wrench and haven't had any come loose since then. I'll go red locktite if that's what it takes I won't be doing the C/S in quite a while once I put the 15 on there. I'll then decide if the bike can pull my big carcass with a 41. Gas milage is everyones problem. The less we use the less we put into our enemies hands. prairiedawg :)

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If your CS nut was toast I would also run a dye on the threads of the CS to clean this up

Threads look brand new on the cs.

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The key thing , is checking that free spin in nuetral after tightening as NOBIL suggested(should be really free). You don't want to be running down the road with a cage behind the butt and have that tranny lock up.

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A little follow up. I replaced the nut and lock washer, and problem solved. What a stupid design.

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Old issue, when the sprocket is not installed correctly, or a simple NON OEM install procedure is not followed. Do a search and you'll find all kinds of info on this.

Including a parts list, cost, and best of all the better install procedure. Bottom line,, when done right it is not an issue.

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