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Flames, but not starting

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Well I've been trying to start my bike for the past 3 days and have gotten no where. I took a 2 month winter break to give it a little tune up and give my self a rest(snowboarding). Now i have tried almost every trick I've read on TT as well as on other forums and haven't been helping a whole lot. My problem now is I gave the throttle a few twists, turned the gas off, choke on, and gave it a few kicks. So i kept the gas off, choke off, and i pushed the kill switch for 2 or 3 kicks. Then gave it a nice healthy kick w/o the kill switch and i get a 12in. flame :p comming out the back of my bike and a little "pop". :) But still not starting.

Any suggestions on what i could do.

(BTW, i have a heater heating the engine, so its pretty warm, its like 40* out, and its a 250R) :)

Thanx in advance,

Tom

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You may have already tried this, but drain the float, drain the gas,

put new gas in and go through your starting procedure. If it still won't start,

take he plug out, clean off plug (or try a new one), put the plug

back in the cap and rest it against the frame. Now kick it a few times and look

@ your spark. If everything looks OK, then try to start it. If it still won't

start then definitely check your valves.

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The reason the flame is shooting out is because its loaded up with fuel. No big deal. Like the guys said, start by draining the float bowl. If the plug is good, the gas is good, and your air filter is clean then it needs a carb clean.

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have you done any work on the bikesince you last rode its possible to get the cam timing out a tooth which will result in similar symptoms of which you are describing.

just a thought (my apprentice did this)

:)

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thanx for the replies, but i have a few ?'s:

1. Do you drain the float bowl by laying the bike on the left side

2. How do you clean the carb. thats what im thinking it would be. are theirr ne instructions online or something.

I checked the plug, and it sparks nicely, the extent of the work i did over the break was i checked the valve clearence, didn't take the cam chain off.

O yeh, and im not really sure if this is supposed to happen but when i checked the plug, it seemed to spark through out the whole kick. But im not positive.

Again, thatn for your help.

Tom

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1) To drain the bowl there is a 17mm bolt IIRC on the very bottom of the carb bowl.

Just unscrew it to drain the gas but be sure you turn the petcock off.

2)You can loosen the carb boot clamps and rotate the carb so you can access the screws that hold the float bowl on. Remove the bowl. I would start with the pilot jet. Then get some carb cleaner and blast away.

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Do like Throttlejockey said. I would also take out the fuel screw as well and

clean up into where it screws in. Note: put some white cloths down underneath

the fuel screw when doing this. There is the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o-ring.

get you a zip-ty fuel screw or equivalent, best money you will ever spend.

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Ok, when i took out the fuel screw, eventhough you said to be careful of thid, i lost the fasher and oring. So i am about to order a new 1 but im a little confused, is it part# 16016-MEB-671. and is that the hole assembly. Thanx,

Tom

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make sure the o-ring and washer aren't still stuck in the hole. My o-ring stayed in there when I took mine out.

Get a small mirror and a flashlight to check.

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Make sure the o-ring is not stuck up inside the carb. Get you some wire and see if

you can fish it out. 16016-MEB-671 is the whole assembly. As mentioned earlier

get you a zip-ty fuel screw. I use mine all the time for quick adjustments. I can't

imagine having to mess w/ the fuel screw w/o it.

When reinstalling, make sure you get the order correct, spring, washer, o-ring.

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I am going to get the Zip-ty fuel screw, but does t come with the washer. i foung the o-ring, it was stuck up there, but can i just go to the hardware store and get a small washer that would fit in the carb and on the screw if they even got 1. And i took the bottom part of the carb. off, just shoot up and around the plastic floats.

Thanx,

Tom

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It is only the screw. You have to use the stock o-ring spring and washer. It is a tiny washer I wonder if you can find it at the hardware store. Maybe it is near your bike- it is so small. Throttlejockey is saying to clean out those jets with the cleaner.

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Pull the main and pilot jet right out and clean them.

I'd tell you to take the float out and clean the needle jet but the way your luck is going you'll lose something else.

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I'd also check the valves. My friend has an XR250 that would shoot flame but not start. Turns out one of the intake valves was not sealing up. The compression seemed really low on this bike due to the valve hanging open.

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Hi, crf racer. It's always difficult to make a diagnosis with so little information, but to me it Definetly sounds like a valve problem, if you are sure you have done no wrenching to cause this problem... check valve adjustment, cam timing, ignition timing. If none of these are wrong, you have to split your engine. But it should be a peace of cake to work on cyl. heads on crf's... one of the valves could be burnt/be stuck in it's guide or something.....

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Well i found a washer at my hardware store, but i couldnt get it started. But with my luck lately with the carb, maybe im better off not taking any more off. Maybe its cause im really tired or something. But thanx for the help. Now i got to take another run to the hardware store to get some more screws cause the ones on carb now are crap.

Thanx,

Tom

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Funny thing. I had the same problem with my crf. I kicked my guts out after it was in storage, finally started, backfired a lot, flames and all. I tried a day later, and it would not start again. I changed the gas, drained the carb, and it still would not start. Changed the sparkplug, checked the valves, and they were right on. It did not seem to have enough compression to start! I figured it was flooded, so I removed the plug again, and it was bone dry. I squirted fuel into the spark plug hole, and the thing started first kick! Lots of compression now! I figured that the rings or valve was stuck, so I ran it around in the snow for awhile, and it worked fine.

Next day, same thing. would not start. I decided that I had better remove the head and check things out, but before I did this, I cranked the throttle wide open four times, to try and prime the engine with the accelerator pump. One kick, and it decided to start. It starts every time with one kick now if I crank the throttle four times. Go figure. It must either have a plugged port in the carb's pilot track, or it is too cold out, and I should leave it until spring. Maybe it will go back to normal then, or I will need to break down and clean the carb.

Try cranking the throttle four times, it should start.

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Should replace the carb screws with 4mm :) allen-headed ones, and get a cool allen wrench with the "ball" at the end, that works on an angle. Super easy to get bowl off carb. I lost my "o" ring too. Runs like crap with it not in place, or if you sub a different size in place. You have to order the needle to get the "o" ring, spring,and washer from my dealer....... place a white cotton rag under the carb when you work on it to catch all of the neat pieces that fall out when you work on it.

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