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Billet Aluminum Throttle Tubes...worth it?

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I'm thinking of getting one of these, partly because the guy who owned my CRF before me cut the end off too short when he put his bark busters on.

I'm also planning on taking the "push" cable off the throttle to reduce friction (and I've already heard the arguments about not doing it because my throttle is going to jam open from vacuum...I guess I'll find out)...in any case the sales pitch on the aluminum tubes claims they provide a smoother action than stock plastic. At about $50 a pop (OK, $45 through TT!), I'd like to know if others have found them to be worth it.

Thanks.

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I too am interested in these. I've got carpal tunnel syndrom and anything that reduces the muscle use in the hands is nothing but good.

Anyone used the really nice one with sealed bearings.

I would post the link but of course I can't. How silly.

:)

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I'm thinking of getting one of these, partly because the guy who owned my CRF before me cut the end off too short when he put his bark busters on.

I'm also planning on taking the "push" cable off the throttle to reduce friction (and I've already heard the arguments about not doing it because my throttle is going to jam open from vacuum...I guess I'll find out)...in any case the sales pitch on the aluminum tubes claims they provide a smoother action than stock plastic.

I find that claim hard to believe. Rubbing aluminum against aluminum does not make sense if the idea is to reduce friction or drag. This kind of friction is also likely to produce metal particles that will grind together, reduce movement and increase wear. A plastic sleeve may not last as long, but I don't see it causing the problems an aluminum one would over time. If some grit were to find its way into the sleeve, the plastic would be more forgiving until you could get it apart and clean it. An aluminum sleeve would likely jam.

The problem with a lot of aftermarket goodies is that they are fine for someone who does meticulous maintenance, has a paid mechanic, or changes things after every other race. For the average rider that simply hoses off his bike and throws it into a corner of the garage until the next ride, many of these products are a bad idea. This is one of those, IMHO.

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The biggest benefit of the aluminum tube is when you auger your plastic throttle tube into the ground it may break and/or become hard to operate or stuck due to dirt getting in there. With the sealed end aluminum tube, the grip may be ruined but the throttle is unbroken and still works as it was intended to - a big plus when you're in a race or out in the woods.

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Some people actually prefer plastic ones just because they feel better in your hand when riding... for example, landing off a large jump the plastic one will give a little (not much, but enough to notice) and the aluminum one wont. Just my 2 cents....

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The biggest benefit of the aluminum tube is when you auger your plastic throttle tube into the ground it may break and/or become hard to operate or stuck due to dirt getting in there. With the sealed end aluminum tube, the grip may be ruined but the throttle is unbroken and still works as it was intended to - a big plus when you're in a race or out in the woods.

Most people who ride woods cut the end of the throttle tube to fit their handguards. This includes most people who race in the woods.

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Ask Blair Morgan what he thinks about alloy throttle tubes!

And don't pull the push cable off. If you can't twist the throttle the way it came from the factory, quit riding and go play with dollies or something. The last thing we all need is another manufacturer getting sued over a throttle.

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And don't pull the push cable off. If you can't twist the throttle the way it came from the factory, quit riding and go play with dollies or something. The last thing we all need is another manufacturer getting sued over a throttle.

Gee thanks, next time I'm havin' a beer with Blair I'll ask him, he'll probably show me how to do the back flip on a Ski Doo at the same time.

Oh yeah...when you get tendonitis in your arm, you can take your own advice and go play with your dollies, me I'm gonna do whatever I have to do to keep ridin' and not worry about Honda's CYA technologies.

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If you get a good one (like the pro taper) they have a bearing in them that they ride on, super smooth. And some even have a bolt in the end that you attach your bar end on to, those are awsome, you get the benifit of the braring plus with the bar end bolt no dirt gets in between your bars and throttle tube like normal.

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obergsports has two different, one teflon coated billet;

one that, "Spins freely on a innovative, new self-contained bearing system

featuring a double sealed roller bearing on the tube end"

they claim some of the top crossers use them. Read one guys report(not on their site), said it made way more difference than he would have thought possible. Said wheelie control was way way better too. But mostly about reducing hand fatigue. They too offer bar ends that seal the whole deal up. They've also got vibration dampners that go in the bars, anyone ever use something like that? Effective? Aside from squeezing grips, vibration is the other killer for us with carpal tunnel. I've heard of filling bars with bb's or buckshot???

:)

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They too offer bar ends that seal the whole deal up. They've also got vibration dampners that go in the bars, anyone ever use something like that? Effective? Aside from squeezing grips, vibration is the other killer for us with carpal tunnel. I've heard of filling bars with bb's or buckshot???

:)

I've got the Fasst Flexx bars as well, only one ride on them, but I think they help reduce the fatigue. Fasst (www.fasstco.com) also sells anti-vibration inserts that are quite popular.

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I like them just for the crash protection and the assurance with the capped end is that it SHOULD stay clean in there. You dont have to spend 50 on them either, ever heard of the moose throttle tubes? $38

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If you have carpal tunnel or tendonitis, reducing the friction on the throttle is NOT what you should be worried about. Get to a physical therapist, have your hands/arms evaluated, and when they give you exercises to do... do them. Odds are you have one or more weak muscles that you're compensating for, either in your arm, or upper body. This doubles the work load on your other muscles, and generates the strain. Once you get the weak muscles in line, you'll find you can do alot more, with little to no pain, and be stronger overall to boot.

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If you have carpal tunnel or tendonitis, reducing the friction on the throttle is NOT what you should be worried about. Get to a physical therapist, have your hands/arms evaluated, and when they give you exercises to do... do them. Odds are you have one or more weak muscles that you're compensating for, either in your arm, or upper body. This doubles the work load on your other muscles, and generates the strain. Once you get the weak muscles in line, you'll find you can do alot more, with little to no pain, and be stronger overall to boot.

Massage, physio therapy, exercises, stretching, acupuncture....been there done that for over 2 years. It's under control, but I find excessive (what I consider excessive anyways) pull on the throttle just brings it back and makes it worse again.

I used to have a simple cure for the "standard" Mikuni-slide carb, where I routinely cut about 2 winds of the carb spring out. Worked great. Not quite as simple on the spring mechanism on my CRF carb. If I could cut down the spring rate, i'd be happy to leave the "push-pull'" cable arrangement and probably even the stock throttle tube. Maybe I'll look around and try to find an industrial spring supplier to find a match for the stock spring but at a lower rate.

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Those bars are cool. Does it feel like they're moving more than the little bit they do? I could see those helping. Dam* the price!

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If you have carpal tunnel or tendonitis, reducing the friction on the throttle is NOT what you should be worried about. Get to a physical therapist, have your hands/arms evaluated, and when they give you exercises to do... do them. Odds are you have one or more weak muscles that you're compensating for, either in your arm, or upper body. This doubles the work load on your other muscles, and generates the strain. Once you get the weak muscles in line, you'll find you can do alot more, with little to no pain, and be stronger overall to boot.

Sorry, but thats a way over simplication of CT.

Trust that I know what I'm doing. :)

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Those bars are cool. Does it feel like they're moving more than the little bit they do? I could see those helping. Dam* the price!

I have the soft (yellow) inserts and you can move the bars quite easily when stopped and pushing down on them. To tell you the truth, I don't even notice them moving when riding, but have ridden some pretty fast/rocky sections with them and can't say I ever felt any bone jarring impacts being transmitted through my hands, or wrists.

I bought mine used off e-bay for about 1/2 price, yep they're expensive but if it makes the difference between riding (or being competitive) or not....well you be the judge.

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