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Fork Bleeder Valve, new part interest level?

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Would you be interested in fork bleeder valves?

What a bleeder valve does: Bleeder Valves allow quick and accurate removal of built up, unwanted air inside your fork legs. By optimizing the pressure you let your forks work the way they were intended.

So far you can go out and buy fork bleeder valves that require drilling/tapping into your fork cap. I picked up some White Brothers bleeder valves from the TT store. 12 bucks. As shown in the picture. They are just to big to put anywhere except the direct centre of the fork cap. There may be smaller alternatives out there, however its still going to require drilling/tapping.

The new piece would be a replacement for your preload screw. You would take out your fork caps/and swap to the new screw. The new screw would encorporate a bleeder valve which could simply be pressed apoun to release pressure. The best part of this is you will get a bleeder valve without having to drill your forks, just a simple install.

I have spoke with Machinist and he is considering making this piece if the interest level is high enough. So who's in?!

Check out the picture for more details.

bleedvalve.jpg

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just to clarify, that bleeder is only going to fit 2001 and older "s" models. the newer forks don't have that preload adjuster, but do have a nice bleeder screw in the top cap.

it looks like an excellent idea!!

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If Rui makes it I'd sure buy one for my 2000 "S". I've done so much now to this bike that I'm just gonna keep ridin' it. Got her set-up to my liking and I'm gettin' old enough not to like change. :)

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What do the new forks have for adjusting the front preload? I mean you need something for it.

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i'm not sure how effective with installing the bleeder valve for the "S" fork

*no pun intended*

just that i only see the "air release screw" on the cartidge fork.

what do ya guys think??

:)

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shims are used for preload on the newer forks.

there is a rebound (or is it compression?) adjustment screw in the center of the cap and a bleed screw offset to the side.

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perhap we should get other suspension guru in for this discussion as well?

if the "S" fork do build up some pressure within the fork, it will be nice to have such a easy to use device.

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I used an easy bleeder on my 02 e and hated them went back to the standard bleed screws. The bleeders stuck out and there was always a tiny amount of oil that would come out when I pressed the bleed button. I thought I had a bad pair when I talked to 2 other guys that had the same problem. :)

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I used an easy bleeder on my 02 e and hated them went back to the standard bleed screws. The bleeders stuck out and there was always a tiny amount of oil that would come out when I pressed the bleed button. I thought I had a bad pair when I talked to 2 other guys that had the same problem. :bonk:

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I am planning on getting fork bleeder valves for my 400E and while searching the forum, I saw this reply talking about oil leaking from the valve. Anybody else have this problem with theirs? Could it be that those who don't raise the forks in the air off the ground are seeing oil leak from the valve? :thumbsup:

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Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I am planning on getting fork bleeder valves for my 400E and while searching the forum, I saw this reply talking about oil leaking from the valve. Anybody else have this problem with theirs? Could it be that those who don't raise the forks in the air off the ground are seeing oil leak from the valve? :thumbsup:
i would think it depends on where the valve is located.i would also think if you depressed the valve while the bike is on the ground it would get some oil passing the valve(like if you unscrewed the bleeder screww while its on the ground)if the valve is located at the fork there shouldn't be any oil coming out on the stand.if it is located away from the fork there could be a little oil buildup in the hose.but who knows?its a good idea especialy if your in the dirt lots(i always worried that i would loose a bleeder screw in the dirt :bonk: )

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Here is exactly what you need...

97_1_b.JPGda_1_b.JPG

these are made by Anderson Automatic racing... I've got a set on my bike, BURNED has checked them out when he built my forks and they are very high quality...the shortest design out, rebuildable(parts available), SS body for strength, even comes in colors,and made by a fellow DRZ owner! (he is the one that makes the aluminum rotor/oil caps on ebay)... no drilling! remove air bleed screw, screw these in...60 seconds,done!

The right way to bleed your forks is with the front wheel off the ground, if your forks are compressed at all when you bleed them, you lose oil and you create a suction in the fork...it's very easy with these, rock your bike back and to the side on the kickstand, reach up with one hand and press each fork bleeder,Pssst done! It's amazing how much air gets pumped in the fork...you'll catch yourself bleeding your forks all the time just to see how much air got in! :thumbsup: Andrew

Air bleeders on ebay

http://www.bulasign.com/bleeders.html

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Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I am planning on getting fork bleeder valves for my 400E and while searching the forum, I saw this reply talking about oil leaking from the valve. Anybody else have this problem with theirs? Could it be that those who don't raise the forks in the air off the ground are seeing oil leak from the valve? :thumbsup:
My bike is on a stand off the ground when its not in use, the bleeders I used where motion pro, I'm sure there is a much better design and would be willing to try a different pair like the ones ositech is talking about.

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Interesting, this would seem to be a good idea to have installed for when you change your fork oil. As I am assuming the air that get's in during that process is what you want out?

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Interesting, this would seem to be a good idea to have installed for when you change your fork oil. As I am assuming the air that get's in during that process is what you want out?

Air pressure builds up inside the fork legs while you are riding and it affects your spring rate and can stress your fork seals. If you have an 02 or newer DRZ, you have the little bleed screw in your fork caps, off center. The advantage of a bleeder valve is that you just take pressure off your front wheel and push on the little thing. If you use the screw, you have to make sure you get the area clean before backing out the screw, where I ride you'll definitely get dirt in the threads and eventually into the oil chamber.

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Here is exactly what you need...

IMAGE REMOVED

these are made by Anderson Automatic racing... I've got a set on my bike, BURNED has checked them out when he built my forks and they are very high quality...the shortest design out, rebuildable(parts available), SS body for strength, even comes in colors,and made by a fellow DRZ owner! (he is the one that makes the aluminum rotor/oil caps on ebay)... no drilling! remove air bleed screw, screw these in...60 seconds,done!

The right way to bleed your forks is with the front wheel off the ground, if your forks are compressed at all when you bleed them, you lose oil and you create a suction in the fork...it's very easy with these, rock your bike back and to the side on the kickstand, reach up with one hand and press each fork bleeder,Pssst done! It's amazing how much air gets pumped in the fork...you'll catch yourself bleeding your forks all the time just to see how much air got in! :thumbsup: Andrew

Air bleeders on ebay

http://www.bulasign.com/bleeders.html

And that's what I had my eye on. We'll that's it, I'm getting them. Thanks for the feedback! :bonk:

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