Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Sub Tanks

Recommended Posts

Ive got complete setups on the bench ready to go.

If you want one, there's no waiting...

Pm me if youre interested.

:)

If you have a CRF you need these tanks.....I got em' and they are plusher than plush...

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have any pics you can post? I know a lot of people run this setup, but I was always curious how much weight they add?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Do you have any pics you can post? I know a lot of people run this setup, but I was always curious how much weight they add?

Not enough to care about.....they are very light actually. The increased control is worth it. Hey, if you worry about weight that much, a good dump the night before riding will lose more weight than those tanks... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Do you have any pics you can post? I know a lot of people run this setup, but I was always curious how much weight they add?

I have different mounts now....much cleaner...thanks Shawn! :)

subtanks2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just recived my 05 and do the subtanks help a lot on those forks ?

I made them for my 04 and it felt ok, made them more plush in the initial stroke.

but in several tests they say that the forks on the 05 is very good, is that right :)

I haven't driven it yet, the weather is way to bad here in Denmark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You should shorten those lines, Rap. Looks like you got a whole lot of stuff going on up front. . . :)

It doesn't look so busy with the numberplate installed.....you need the flexibility in the lines so as to not put too much pressure on the fittings and to account for different locations...I guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It doesn't look so busy with the numberplate installed.....you need the flexibility in the lines so as to not put too much pressure on the fittings and to account for different locations...I guess.

Actually, youre the first guy Ive seen mount the valve right in the fork like that. I used an elbow and it allows the valve to rotate around and then the line rolls straight up and makes a nice loop and goes straight back down.

I'll take some new shots of mine, kinda show ya they way I did it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

e55b2f54.jpg

7b2feb83.jpg

Some of you guys will notice that on my system there is a flare fitting going into the tanks in addition to the valves. I found its nothing more than added wieght and no easier to mess with so I went with a cleaner setup on the setups I sell.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think shorter lines and a right angle valve from your forks would clean it up way nicer and keep those lines from getting trashed in a crash. I personally had my lines rip off where they meet the fork with my Enzo set up and saw another do the same thing. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think shorter lines and a right angle valve from your forks would clean it up way nicer and keep those lines from getting trashed in a crash. I personally had my lines rip off where they meet the fork with my Enzo set up and saw another do the same thing. :)

If my bars werent so far forward, I could do that. But with my super delux ultra custom mega forward bar mounts, the bar pad wouldnt allow the line do what it would need to do with a 90 degree fitting coming out of the valve. And some guys have the forks spun around so that the vents are to the rear of the bars, and if thats the case, you need the lines to be slightly longer to get over the bars.

Unlike the Enzo setup, the valves move around, so even if you get up close and personal with Mother earth, breaking the fitting off generally doesnt happen.

The reason why I've got 45's coming out of my tanks is, I needed the straight fittings for another system I was selling to a guy and I had the 45's laying around and Im not all that picky about how it looks on my bike, as long as it works, ya know? :p

I'm funny that way, I'll do stuff really nice and clean for somebody else...my own stuff on the other hand... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, nonetheless! How about some part numbers. . . :) Just kidding! I had sub's on my YZF, but choose not to run them on my CRF. . . :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Very nice, nonetheless! How about some part numbers. . . :D Just kidding! I had sub's on my YZF, but choose not to run them on my CRF. . . :)

I ship you the part numbers for 180 bucks :)

:o:p:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tell you what, if I was going back to sub tanks, I'd sure ASK you to make 'em for me. Probably save a couple hundred $'s. . . :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unlike the Enzo setup, the valves move around, so even if you get up close and personal with Mother earth, breaking the fitting off generally doesnt happen.

Well....you have not seen me wreck have you :) I broke mine off the right cap weekend before last... :) All fixed already....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By 33KTM350
      I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...
      1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  
      2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   
      3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    
       




    • By Eric Blasiman
      We have a 2016 CRF450R with about 11 hours out. never ridden hard always check the oil and change when needed along with the air filter. Took care of the recall that was required as well. Well when riding the bike was stalled out. Went to try and kick start the bike again. the kick start lever just back up jamming my knee into the handle bars and some how ended up cracking the case right by where the kick start goes through the case. Has any one had this happen or heard of this happening? What is the cause? 
    • By crfjunky1320
      Any advice on what should be replaced while I have the top end off for a valve replacement. Will do headgasket and springs of course, anything other parts you would recommend while I'm going at it?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Ron Whitfeld
      The dirtbike is on it's forth year right now on the same motor job. I have to jump start it. Is it worth me trading for a 2009 650 brute force with7000 miles? Need some expert advice. Thanks 
    • By Lucas Hansen
      Just wondering what you guys do to remove black marks on your seat. My 08 crf450r has the red/black seat, and after each ride there are some black marks on the red from my riding pants. Not scuff marks, more like patches of black residue from my pants rubbing on the seat. I’ve tried the magic eraser which seemed to do the trick, but lately they seem like they aren’t coming off. Also tried scrubbing bubbles with a brush and no luck. Not too worried cuz I have an spare OEM seat, but I’d like to keep this one nice. Any ideas? Maybe I shouldn’t wear black pants?
×