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's' power to 'e'

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Yes, I've been searching past threads for related posts, but sometimes it's easier just to start a new one.

I've also checked Bronco's faqs http://home.comcast.net/~erik.marquez/drz/EvsS.htm

I'm curious what the h.p. rating is of both the 's' and the 'e' and what mods it takes to bring the 's' h.p. & torque up to that of the stock 'e'? Do you have to change everything to match the 'e' specs (base gasket, cams, carb, cdi etc) or will some of the preferred mods get you there? (3x3 & jetting, cams) without having to change carbs and exhaust.

I'm looking for more power, but still want a quiet bike and don't want to break the bank. I suppose I could just trade the 's' for an 'e', but that wouldn't be any challenge.

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Yes, I've been searching past threads for related posts, but sometimes it's easier just to start a new one.

I've also checked burned's faq http://home.comcast.net/~erik.marquez/drz/EvsS.htm

I'm curious what the h.p. rating is of both the 's' and the 'e' and what mods it takes to bring the 's' h.p. & torque up to that of the stock 'e'? Do you have to change everything to match the 'e' specs (base gasket, cams, carb, cdi etc) or will some of the preferred mods get you there? (3x3 & jetting, cams) without having to change carbs and exhaust.

I'm looking for more power, but still want a quiet bike and don't want to break the bank. I suppose I could just trade the 's' for an 'e', but that wouldn't be any challenge.

:) Not for the credit,, but cuz I don't want Burned blamed for my ramblings :p Notice the name in the link you posted :)

The key points to take away from that chart are,, that most of the items that are different E to S.. are changed on both bikes in the quest for more power.. Except the carb,, which the E already has. If being left as delivered from the OEM,, the E wins hands down.... If your going down the Power Mod road.. it makes less of a difference... as all but the carb get replaced on the E anyway :D

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Base gasket, hotcams, & CDI, you listed them. You can do all of those without

the FCR carb. But it is the preferred way to go over the 3x3 & dynojeted mikuni.

The full yoshi exhaust with the med tech insert is a California OHV legal 96db.

I would do the 3x3 and dynojet first, it is the cheapest of all you mentioned.

Then either do the hotcams and gasket or a full exhaust.

Do a search for horsepower numbers, or something similar I know the

data has been posted, don't remember it offhand. 3x3 & dynojet will really

wake the bike up, a fairly cheap and easy mod to do.

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Not for the credit,, but cuz I don't want Burned blamed for my ramblings :) Notice the name in the link you posted :)

QUOTE]

Sorry, fixed!

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I would do the 3x3 and dynojet first, it is the cheapest of all you mentioned.

Then either do the hotcams and gasket or a full exhaust.

Thanks. I do have the DJ kit & jets coming from Kientech. Just wondering what direction I might go after that, or if it's even worth the expense.

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Changing the S gearing to the 14/47 combo of the E is relatively inexpensive and makes a noticeable difference in performance. :)

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A full exhaust system is quite expensive but if you really want the power it's a lot better then stock. I have an 03 S with DJ, 3x3, FMF powerbomb header and Q muffler and it was dyno'd at 43. I think the E is something like 45 or so.

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I have an Edelbrock 40mm carb with 3x3 mod and it was also dyno'd at 43 HP. However the pumper carb gives an enormous improvement in pick-up from low to mid revs.

The g-pack mod wil also give a big improvement in pick-up as it eleminates the limiter (ingition retard for less sound and torque) in 3rd and 4th gear.

Noppy

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I have an Edelbrock 40mm carb with 3x3 mod and it was also dyno'd at 43 HP. However the pumper carb gives an enormous improvement in pick-up from low to mid revs.

The g-pack mod wil also give a big improvement in pick-up as it eleminates the limiter (ingition retard for less sound and torque) in 3rd and 4th gear.

Noppy

Numbers are numbers are numbers. one set is all but useless to compare to another.. Aside from that.

As the DRZ has no gear selection sensor....just how does your "G Pack Mod" know when your in 3rd or 4th gear :)

Additionally: Where did you come up with "eliminates the limiter (ignition retard for less sound and torque) in 3rd and 4th gear" :)

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I key worded "g-pack mod" into the search feature after reading this thread. Though bronco's question had been asked before, I don't see where it was ever answered definetively. What does appear to be certain, is that the CDI is wired the same, and works the same for both European and North American DRZ's. If you could explain how that mod works, and why it works, no doubt many of us would appreciate it. TIA. :)

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