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New KTM will not hardly roll after first ride

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My new KTM 300 Exc will not hardly roll after my first day of riding (just 1 tank).

When I unloaded the bike from my trailer at the end of the day, it would hardly push or pull. I thought it was in gear. I kept putting it in neutral, but it was still very hard to push/roll; I even started it to confirm it was not in gear.

It rolled very easy and normally prior to noticing this after today's first ride.

I lifted the back of the 300E and rolled the front wheel, thus I don't think the front brake is impeding anything.

Could it be the back brake or transmission causing this -- help! :)

Thanks,

Elton

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Get the rear wheel off the ground;

if it rolls hard either direction from the spot its in then its wheel/brake area.

if it rolls easy until the slack in the chain takes up, then hard its transmision.

How is you chain adjustment? Was it real muddy ridding conditions or soft sand that the wheel would be sunl down into?

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Was it real muddy ridding conditions or soft sand that the wheel would be sunl down into?

I rode on grassy hills, pastures, gravel trails, light mud trails; no big deal.

How is you chain adjustment?

The dealer did all of the setup, went over the bike, very professional, etc.; have no reason to believe that all was not in order for ride #1. But looking at it now, there is not much slack.

Get the rear wheel off the ground; if it rolls hard either direction from the spot its in then its wheel/brake area. if it rolls easy until the slack in the chain takes up, then hard its transmission.
OK, I checked; the wheel will not turn by hand, not an inch -- while there is little slack in the chain, I assume since there is "no play" its the brake. If its the back brake, what do I do to fix it -- don't want to drive an hour to my dealer unless I have to.

Thanks,

Elton

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Elton,

With the above information I agree that your chain is/was too tight! With the bike setting on the stand you should be able to pull the top strand of chain almost 2.5 inches above the swing arm. Pete

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I did this with my 450sx. I stripped the chain ring mount bolts right off. Lesson was very expensive for me :). Loose chain, your on your way with KTM.

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If the chain was adjusted like that from the dealer then by all means take it back to them and let them figure it out especially if its brand new and your first ride. There should be a 30 day warranty on two strokes and it would/should be covered. :) If you did the adjusting to the chain without first consulting your manual then your bad... :)

It could be the rear hub, or the bearings behind the countershaft sprocket.

Hopefully its just a piece of gravel stuck between the front sprocket and case. Remove the chain and check the hub and countershaft sprocket out.

good luck,

HH

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Would it not be the brake since the chain is not even invoked when I try to hand turns the back wheel?

The 300e will roll, just not smoothly; its like the back brake is partially engaged.

The 300e was completely setup to ride by the dealer, chain, etc. I have a 6-month warranty; so, I'm not stressing-out -- just a PITA to drive two hours to fix after riding only 2-hours.

Elton

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If my bike, I would first make sure the rear brake reservoir is not over filled with brake fluid. Remove the cap on top of the master cylinder, then back bleed the brake by placing your knee on the brake, grab the rear tire with both hands and force the piston back into the calipers. Be careful doing this without the cap removed, I saw someone pop the sight glass out of the master cylinder because there was no space in the tiny master cylinder for the fluid. The brake pads are now no longer touching the rear brake rotor and the tire should spin freely, slowed only by the Resistance of the chain. if the chain if adjusted freely, the rear wheel should spin quite easily and you can tell if the problem is in the brake or something to do with the chain/sprockets.

Another problem to check is a foreign body, usually a stick or rock stuck in the lower chain guide by the wheel. I have had sticks jammed into the guide with unbelievable force and removed the stick with great difficulty. I have also seen sticks and rocks stuck in the brake caliper. A warped or bent sprocket can also make the tire hard to rotate.

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So does the chain have slack? Try loosening the brake MC lid as mentioned above, if that does not do it unbolt the brake caliper and slide it off the rotor, if its still tight loosen the axel, basically unbolt stuff untill you find what is restricting the wheel from moving.

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It appears to be a chain guard that is pressing up against the chain -- when you push the bike in neutral, it rolls in a "notchy way", thus this must be the problem -- note photos:

Plastic Guard Pressing on Chain #1

Plastic Guard Pressing on Chain #2

Top View #1

Top View #2

Plastic_Shavings

The guys on KTMtalk seem to think it's not a big deal; I hope they are correct. Will see what the dealer says tomorrow.

Elton

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your chain guide is on backwards the longer end should be towards the rear of the bike! when you put the bolt back in make sure you use loctite :)

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your chain guide is on backwards the longer end should be towards the rear of the bike! when you put the bolt back in make sure you use loctite :)

Do you think this was a factory screw-up or a dealer setup item?

Thanks,

Elton

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It would not be normal for the dealer to have that apart, unless he pirated a part to keep another rider going while waiting on a parts shipment

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your chain guide is on backwards the longer end should be towards the rear of the bike! when you put the bolt back in make sure you use loctite :)

Are you sure? (see other photo below). My dealer said: "...It is not on backwards, it has flipped upside down somehow. You simply need to take it off and flip it over. I think it just has one bolt hoding it. Be sure to loctite it when you put the bolt back in. This should not have caused any other damage....".

However, it appears to me that bolt holding the plastic guard on is the kickstand bolt. If so, it will be more than one bolt and the spring to remove it, correct? Note new photos:

Back View #1

Back View #2

Front View #1

Front View #2

Thanks,

Elton

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I started to take the kickstand off; then realized that the part looked so screwed-up, I would have to go back to the dealer anyway (for the part). I also wanted them to re-check my chain.

He removed the kickstand, dislodged the guide and replaced it with a new one -- he was also amazed as to how it could have happened.

Thanks to everyone for the help,

Elton

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Well now that you got that out of the way. What are your impressions of the bike. Does it have a little more spunk than the wr? I heard that the 04 and 05 were not as strong as the prevoius years, I have an 00 and it rips.

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Well now that you got that out of the way. What are your impressions of the bike. Does it have a little more spunk than the wr? I heard that the 04 and 05 were not as strong as the prevoius years, I have an 00 and it rips.

I only have ridden my 2005 300 Exc one day, but that day was serious fun. Given my throttle-jockey riding style, out of the box the 300e was mind blowing (reminding me of my 1976 MX bike, very light, with alive power) -- power from the start, power that kept increasing, power all the time. While the WR is more chilled initially until it gets to a point where "all hell breaks loose".

The 300e wore me out trying to hold on and concentrate on throttle-control -- as said in another thread, initially I didn't know to laugh, cry, or soil my pants. I had to stop and rest my hand a couple of times; gripping so tight they were cramping.

I can ride the 300e as fast as my WR; but is requires far more attention. The suspension was not as good or "plush" as the WR at high speeds; this may change, as the 300e gets broke-in (the WR450 has 330 miles on it).

I'm really happy I have both bikes; it was my goal to get two "different" rides. Both bikes are excellent, if I sold one to get one, I would swear the one I retained was best :)

Elton

P.S. - still running the yellow Power Valve spring; may try the red spring soon :)

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