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Clutch rings which way round ?

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Guys,

Fried my clutch, pulled the plates and there are 2 washers/rings inside the plates, one is sort of chamfered shape and it fell out as I pulled the plates. The book says 'paint mark faces out or similar..of course there is no paint on my ring..Anybody know if its chamfer in like this / or chamfer out like this \ (sort of )

Cheers Shane.

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Im not sure Shane45 i havnt even got my bike & manual yet, But i got a pic if it helps at all then u can point it out. U talking about 13 & 14 i guess :)

partimage.bmp

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Just finished rebuilding my 03- the flat ring goes on first with the chamfered edge facing in then the angled ring with the raised edge facing out(away from basket) :)

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While we are talking about these rings. I have always wondered, if you use aftermarket clutch plates do you still use these? I have only used OEM clutch pack so I still use the two rings. Just something I have pondered while lying awake at night.

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I am fairly sure that those two rings are still used with aftermarket clutches. The only difference between aftermarket and OEM is the composite of the fiber disks.

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Guys,

Fried my clutch, pulled the plates and there are 2 washers/rings inside the plates, one is sort of chamfered shape and it fell out as I pulled the plates. The book says 'paint mark faces out or similar..of course there is no paint on my ring..Anybody know if its chamfer in like this / or chamfer out like this \ (sort of )

Cheers Shane.

Just passing on some FYI, my '02 WR had the "cant find nuetral/ notchy shifting syndrome" I took out those "rings", and low and behold, my trans shifted and acted perfect. Upon inspection of those "rings" I see no purpose of them (I am sure Yamaha has them in there for a reason) IMO all they were doing was transferring spinning motion drag from the outer basket, to the inner hub when the clutch was fully depressed, which was aggravating the can't find nuetral condition. I have about 3500 mi on my WR from street driving, to racing the "kickstand" class at my local MX club. My trans is still shifting, and behaving perfect.

Rich

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Just removed the cushion spring and seat  from my 07 WR as I had a dragging clutch causing the usual gear select problems. The bike is much better now and I can easily find neutral etc. Thanks Polar_Bus for the original post on this. :thumbsup:

 

With the cushion spring and seat fitted, the pressure plate on my bike moves out about 1.1 mm when the clutch lever is pulled. Removing the cushion spring adds about another 0.5 mm to the total clearance which may explain the improvement (?)

 

 

MikeH

Edited by Cloudy

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Can you guys post some pics about this? I have an wr250 06 and I plan to open up the clutch to check it out. I do get some of the dragging clutch but what annoys me is that once the bike warms up the clutch starts to engage differently, and I have to continuously fiddle with the cable tension adjuster when riding. Very annoying. I never know if I can shift the gears, or where the clutch engages. So no wheelies for me yet :) Thanks

Edited by meWR250f

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Yes I was never sure whether I would be able to change gears either! Before removing the cushion spring and seat, it often took two attempts from 1st to 2nd.

 

Also just about impossible to find neutral unless the engine was not running.

 

Here is a link to a thread on a Honda clutch with pics. The wr clutch is similar. Here they call the cushion spring a 'judder' spring. The thread gives an explanation of its purpose. 

 

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19695762

 

Hope this helps.

 

MikeH

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Finally opened up my clutch. And everything looked ok, but I still replaced it with an OEM clutch kit. Looks like I have the inner hub free mod done (holes). I did not remove the cushion spring and seat yet, I will give it a try with the new clutch kit. But if I still have the issue, I will definitely do that as the next step. Here are a few pics.

Free mod

IMG_0151 free mod.JPG

 

Old clutch plates still looking good and measuring at the top of the useable range, as per manual. Does anyone know if these are OEM friction plates?

IMG_0152 old FPs.jpg

 

Blue FP as first and last, see the painted edge in blue

IMG_0153 blue Fp last.JPG

 

BTW, somthing's wrong with the site, all pics appear upside down

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for posting, the information in that Honda forum is very clear! Wonder how they made it so unclear in the Yamaha manual.

And as they are mentioning in the Honda Manual - A judder spring is not installed on motorcycles on which the judder is not bothersome.

 

Problem solved - take them out and check for judder. Next to try

 

Yes I was never sure whether I would be able to change gears either! Before removing the cushion spring and seat, it often took two attempts from 1st to 2nd.

 

Also just about impossible to find neutral unless the engine was not running.

 

Here is a link to a thread on a Honda clutch with pics. The wr clutch is similar. Here they call the cushion spring a 'judder' spring. The thread gives an explanation of its purpose. 

 

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19695762

 

Hope this helps.

 

MikeH

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Update: had the chance to ride the bike a tiny bit today, and with the new OEM clutch (cushion spring and seat still installed) it shifts smoother, very little to no drag, I can find neutral again. So new OEM clutch was the fix for me. Using Motul 5000 semi-syn 10w40 motor oil

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I'm glad to hear your clutch is working well. Can you let us know how it's performing when you've got a few hours on it? 

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2 hours on it already, night and day difference compared to before. Very little to no drag at all.

Pull the clutch in and I can push the bike backwards! I can find neutral! :)

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