Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Ordering Stiffer Fork Springs... Need Simplest Install...

Recommended Posts

I'm about to place an order for .46 for springs, and want to make SURE that its the right one for my weight...

I think I've lost 10 pounds in the last 3 months of riding almost 2000 miles on my '05 "S"... I used to weigh 175, but I just weighed myself with and without gear...

I only weigh 165 without gear and 185-190 with helmet, boots, gloves, pants, jersey, chest protector, and a backpack with tools and water.

I usually carry lots of stuff on long rides, but that's the average..

I found a calculator on: http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=958&manufacture=Suzuki&model=DR%2DZ+400S&year=2005&TABLEINFO=dirt&langname=english

And:

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRateCalculation/dirtspring.asp?brand=Suzuki&yr=2005&ml=DR-Z%20400S&formuse=form1&SpringType=Shock

I also called racetech, and they AGREED that a .46 is correct...

Can this be done without removing the forks, and just removing the cap, pulling out the spring, and replacing it without messing with the oil and stuff?

The bike is only 3 months old - oil should be good - right?

I appreciate the help a LOT...

Thank you Burned/Bronco78 in advance.. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The chance of the oil height being equal on a factory fill is rare, any heavy offroad on a new forks usually contaminates quickly within a couple rides.

My S mod seeing, 90 percent street, first change at 15k, I was surprised at how good of condition the oil was in when I changed it.

Factory fill on a S is around 129mm height.

Changing out them springs your going to loose 5 to ten mm in oil height even if your careful. you could end up with one fork 20mm lower height than the other. and the cap is attached to the damper rod.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I take it there are a LOT of people on here that have done this.. Most people here seem to weigh over 200, and I need your help..

The Manual makes it look tooooooooo easy.. It appears you can just take the cap off, but I think I'm missing something...

I would prefer to not have to buy the "Special Tool" (Fork oil level gauge) and mess with the oil.

IF AT ALL POSSIBLE - Can you swap the spring without removing the forks??

Here are 7 pages from the manual:

EDIT: Please PM the poster if you wish to view his "back up" copies of the copy right protected meterial he seems to have very nice pictures of :)

Thanks The Mod :)

Anyone that has done this before, and realized there is an easier way - please let me know!

I will completely disassemble the forks if I HAVE TO, but I'd prefer not to... The Oil isn't that big of a deal if I can also measure it with a ruler or something... I just don't want to mess with the bottom of the forks (seals etc)...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

tip

loosen the top tripple clamp bolts(leave lowers tightened) and break loose that fork cap(don't remove), will be alot easier.

I recommended the oil change, but after removing the fork(and fork boots). unscrew the top cap, and then the chrome leg will fall quickly so watch. Now the damper rod will be attached to the cap , this has to be broken loose, remove the cap and damper rod will fall (remove spring). Dump the oil, pump and bleed new oil , let settle and adjust the height.

Heres where the tool is needed after installing spring to pull the damper rod up through the spring.

Got any good dental floss?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DudeWayne - THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH!!! I never noticed that - it says copywright 2000!!!! Shit!!!! It was a freebie... I guess I DON'T have the service manual.... Damn....

No wonder it looked sooo simple - the forks are different for 02-05...

Anyone have a PDF of an 02-05 DRZ? PM me PLEASE!!!

I'm going to have to hold off on this project.. That manual is worthless for this job, but most the rest is the same...

If you don't have the entire manual in pdf, could you scan the pages that refer to the forks....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the spring replacement is still similar between the newer and older forks.

I reccomend a oil replacement and checking the oil level also but here is some fairly detailed spring replacement instructions tom slick style.

support the bike so that there is no weight on the front end the wheel is in the air

you will need to remove the hadlebars from their clamps, you can leave everything hooked to them, they just need to be out of the way of the springs coming out.

Loosen the upper clamp bolts. (very important!)

unscrew the fork caps

they will come out of the fork tubes but will still be connected to the damping rod and retaining the spring.

lean the bike forward to a positon that you can see the bottom of the for caps, be careful, there is no springs supporting the front of the bike so the bike can fall forward.

you'll need a wrench that will fit between the coils on the springs to get to the lock nut on the damping rod at the bottom of the fork cap

with a wrench on the lock nut and a wrench on the fork cap remove the fork cap from the damping rod.

pull the old sissy lala spring out as you watch your damping rod fall into the deep bowls of the fork tube and you get fork oil on your vintage metallica "and justice for all" t-shirt.

install the new manly spring into the for tube and figure out how to retrieve the damping rod from the deep bowls of the fork tube. probably needle nose pliers will work but a #0 gamakatsu treble hook on a shimano medium action bass combo with 8# spider wire could be a second more rugged outdoorsman choice. :)

reinstall the damping rod into the fork cap and reassemble in reverse order of assembly.

cycle the forks up and down to see if you can "feel the difference" and notice the new spings are making a scraping sound.

post a message here wondering if you goofed something up because the forks now make a scraping sound.

get responses back saying that it will go away after your first ride :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That manual is for the 00 and 01 S forks. the newer forks are completely different.

How old is your manual? Mine is for a DR-Z400SY (meaning year 2000) but it has supplements in the back for more recent models up through 2004 including fork servicing information on "E" models. Did ya look towards the back of the book for up-dates? Or use the index? SK1 = 2001, SK2 = 2002, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom Slick- Sounds like its easier to just remove the forks... But I love the description of how to do it "Sportsman Style" :D:o

I'll just remove the forks, so I can go ahead and change out and get the oil level right... I plan on leaving them upside down overnight to get all the fluid out..

you'll need a wrench that will fit between the coils on the springs to get to the lock nut on the damping rod at the bottom of the fork cap

with a wrench on the lock nut and a wrench on the fork cap remove the fork cap from the damping rod.

It seems the toughest part is the lock nut.... I sure hope so! :)

Ross- I just looked, and there isn't any of that in the PDF I have :D

Thanks again to all of you -for helping make the Impossible&Expensive into Easy&Cheap

:):p

I was also thinking of removing the boots and replacing them with the plastic roost guard style - any real disadvantage?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hardest part?

is getting that damper rod through that spring without messing up your oil height, as with the easy damper rod tool.

Before you put the spring back in. tie about 3ft of strong dental floss to your damper rod threads , it's got to hold several pounds of force , so make sure a good tie, and double tie. The other end of the floss tie to a small socket, now thread this socket through the spring then install the spring in the fork.

Now you can thread(pulling gently) the damper rod right up through the spring, if you tied it good. once fully extended get the cap on a couple of threads, then razor knive the floss to remove. That nut on the damper rod run it all the way down so the rod will go all the way into the cap.

you can always try to thread with fingers though(it's fun)

No boo boo equals intact oil height>G<

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I got it now - I'd really appreciate a scan of the schematic or diagram... Just a couple pages... Please???? :)

I'm picking up the springs and BajaDesigns LED Tailight tomorrow... Should have the forks off tomorrow night and ready to put the springs in on thursday...

Questions:

Do I need to mark EXACTLY how the upper fork tubes line up in the tripple clamps or does it matter?

Is there anything that needs to be measured or written down before disassembly?

Any suprises other than the damping rod and oil height?

Thanks Again! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think I got it now - I'd really appreciate a scan of the schematic or diagram... Just a couple pages... Please???? :)

Here's the section. Hope it's the one you need?

Mike - :)

EDIT: Please PM the poster if you wish to view his "back up" copies of the copy right protected meterial he seems to have very nice pictures of :D

Thanks :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Miken- PERFECT!!!!! THANKS!!! I saved them, if you want to delete them from here...

Thanks a LOT...

Saved my a$$!!!!

Off to pick up the .46 RaceTech Springs and BD LED Tailight at lunch!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miken- PERFECT!!!!! THANKS!!! I saved them, if you want to delete them from here...

Thanks a LOT...

Saved my a$$!!!!

Off to pick up the .46 RaceTech Springs and BD LED Tailight at lunch!!!

Good-Luck! :)

Mike -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Forks came off a LOT easier that I thought... Bought some Eibach .46 Springs (They make the Racetech Brand Anyway) from PrecisionConceptsRacing.com

ForkSpring%20000.jpg

Picked up 2 bottles of Maxima 5w Fork Fluid..

Also Picked up the BajaDesigns LED Tailight!!!!

ForkSpring%20005.jpg

I'm about to take the caps off, and see what's in there - Hopefully from the precious posts, I can figure it out!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SUPRISE!!!!

The new springs are SHORTER.... The Instructions say to use ALL FOUR washers on top of the forks, but do I include the (stock) one that was there ALSO???

(New Springs on the Right)

ForkSpring%20007.jpg

Forks are Draining Overnight as per Burned....

ForkSpring%20008.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Atleast they are the same size, last time I bought Eibach springs one was shorter than the other. POS! aftermarkt quality shimmed it to make even.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×