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VOR head gasket

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what better way to celebrate a first post than with a problem?

it looks like i'll have to replace the head gasket on my '01 503SM.. the oil is getting milky (i've already replaced the water pump seal and bearings) - have any of you had to do this?

i don't get any of the symptoms i'd expect if the HG was blowing (white exhaust smoke or pressure in the radiator), and there don't seem to be any leaks around the gasket, but somehow water is getting into the oil and i can't think what else to try.

any hints appreciated :)

cheers

bob

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Does the oil look milky after running it with a fresh oil change. Are you looking in the window when it is running, Some oils pick up air real easy and look milky. Mine does but when I change it after it sits for a few minutes it gets clear.If it had water in it I would think it would stay milky.I have changed head gaskets on cars and dumped the oil days later and it still looks milky if it had water in it.

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hmmm, you have a good point. it looks milky (well, more of a cloudy grey) through the sight glass, more or less as soon as the motor fires. i can't recall the oil looking this cloudy when i first got the bike, but i have changed to a cheaper brand of oil recently. so what you say does make sense.

i threw the oil out yesterday without giving it chance to settle out, so i'll put fresh in today and see what happens.

cheers!

bob

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As Coronaberg said some oils (heavy weight oils like 20-50) will trap air bubbles and look milky until it is hot. Also, if the water pump shaft was grooved where the seal rubs then you may still have a water leak there. I was having chronic water leak problems until I replaced the water pump shaft. Another thing to remember is that the oil will be a little milky for at least one oil change after fixing a water leak.

I have a lot of experience with VORs and I would bet against a blown gasket.

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that all seems to tie in. i'd expect smoke, steam or rough running with a blown gasket but even if i gun the motor with the rad cap off, there's no overflow. i can't take it out on the road yet as i need to do a bit more work, but if there's a problem then i'm sure it'll show up then. in the mean time i changed the oil again, and it went milky straight away, but this time i left it in the engine and it does seem to have settled clear. fingers, toes, and whatever else crossed....

thanks for the info!

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My experiance with the VOR head gaskets, when you have a bad /blown one you can't keep the coolant topped up it pushes it overboard, every time you ride it you'll find that it takes a half a liter or so of water/coolant, never really noticed any steam in the exhaust.... maybe just wasn't looking back to see it... If you change the oil with it cold after sitting overnight you'll get a slug of water when you first pull the drain plug before you get oil. I prefer to coat the new head gasket with coppercoat before installation i've found when you do this you'll not have another blown head gasket at least not for a season or so....

Dean

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VOR head gaskets are coated with sealant. If replaced, the mating surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with contact cleaner/brake cleaner etc. DO NOT touch the face of the gasket with your bare hands and you will have no problems :)

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I here what your saying dezracerd, been there done that and have had problems.... only an idiot would put one together that wasn't antiseptic I have resurfaced both the head and the cyl, cleaned and installed new gasket just to have it go after 20 hrs of riding, two coats of copper coat and it hasn't had a problem for a years worth of riding..... just my experience..... do as you will.

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gdb11867,

I was trying to make the point that the VOR headgasket does not need any extra sealants to work properly.

Your case is obviously the exception.

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