Quick question

Guys anyone know what size spanner wrench I need to use on the XR650R with regards to the steering stem and swingarm? I'm putting all new bearings and want them seated right, the first time. I'm at work and wanted to pick one up after I leave. I hope/assume they're the same. Would make sense.


swingarm shaft bolt & nut: (clutch side) 27mm throttle side 19mm

steering head: 29mm or 30mm. i bought a couple large sockets when I changed the triple clamp and forgot which one it was-sorry!

I hope these are what you are talking about.

Scott in Sacramento

No, I"m referring to the spanner style lock nut. Like when you remove your steering stem nut theres another nut with grooves on the outside. The swingarm has one too. Thanks though!

I used a brass drift and hammer.......No need to pound hard... :)

Right I know but the manual says to seat them you should torque the spanner to 24ft lbs. and back off to 5 or so. I just wanted to do it right. The steering and swingarm bearings ain't cheap. Last year when I did them and torqued it "by hand" the stem nut kept coming loose on me. I wondered if it was due to the spanner nut not being torqued properly. Anyone else got a size?

Sounds like a " Honda " special tool

Hopefully not....ugghh...

My roomate/mechanic uses an adjustable spanner on those bolts. I had trouble with my sterring head nut loosening too, then my roomate looked at it and laughed at me for wondering why when the threads were covered in bearing greese, check that and clean with brake cleaner.

not a honda special tool, try harbor freight maybe.

As far as correct torque, I dont know if they make a spanner attachment for torque wrenches?

If anyone knows about that I'd like to know where to get one.

just dial in your elbow and make a clicking noise when you hit the specified torque....

I've rebuilt a few stearing heads - they were Yamaha sportbikes, but I think the process is the same.

Factory serrvice manuals all seem to call for a "special tool" from the manufacturer. It's not a simple spanner wrench and it does allow for torquing. I figured I'd do it right, so I went to my Yammy dealer to order the tool. He said not to worry about the tool - they don't even have one in their shop. The procedure he described is to use a cold chisel and hammer to drive the nuts tight. Do this with the front wheel off the ground. You know it's the proper torque when the wheel will slowly glide from the center to the stop (as opposed to simply flopping over, or not moving at all). It's worked for me 3 times.

I know it's hard to believe that I have a helpful and honest dealer, but it's true.

Good luck.

Cool thanks. The sterring stem isn't hard to do. But on the 650r's swingarm the spanner nut is recessed in the framerail. I'll get it done though. Thanks!

PS-I guess last year I too was guilty of grease on the steering stem nuts...DOH!

The stem is pretty easy, a large pair of channel locks does the job for me.

As for the swing arm... either get the tool from Honda, or make one yourself as described here on the Pig-Pen.

Dont try to do this with a hammer and drift or a chisel or something, you will mess up the nut, and it is almost impossible to set the preload, which is pretty important.

I used this method once, and when I went to Honda to order a new spanner nut, :) I ordered the factory tool as well.

If youre handy in the garage, the homemade version will save alot of money. I wish I had seen it before I bought one.

Yeah I'll just take a socket and go to town with the grinder. If you guys don't hear from me for a few days, suspect I've lost a finger or other appendage.

I have to make the swingarm tools too. I confess to riding my first season with the bike without disassembling and greasing the swingarm pivot. :) I am also going to make the fork tools and try revalving the suspension myself. I guess I better get going!!!


Go to this link and it will give you options on the tools to set the preload bolt and preload lock nut. The best/easiest/expensive way is to buy the honda tools. What I did a few years ago is to get an auto brake caliper tool from Pep Boys and grind as required to fit in the frame recess with a bench grinder. Similar to what option 4 talks about in the above link.

i once had to buy a spaner that would fit a torque wrench from honda,i think i needed it to do a clutch on a 750f i once had. it is about a 17 or 19 mil. if i remember right it was the only way i could get that sucker off.

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