Broken Gas Tank Bolt...Help Please!

I was putting the tank back after some carb work and one of the bolts snapped off inside the frame mount. Aside for an "Easy Out" set, anybody have a trick for getting the little nub out of there? There's nothing on the outside to grab a hold of and it's a pretty skinny bolt. All help is greatly appreciated :naughty: ...SC

It's all good kids...I figured out a solution and it worked like a charm. Now I just have to find two new bolts to replace the shitty pot metal ones Yamaha considers to be OEM :naughty: . I guess it's off to Home Depot...SC

In the future, you might try a reverse drill bit. No, this is not a joke. They are available at some autoparts stores, or specialty tool stores. I don't think that places like Home Depot carry them. They aren't cheap, but they work slick. The trick is that they drill backwards--that is, you have to put the drill in reverse to get it to drill. Drill out the bolt with the reverse drill bit--you'd have to anyway if you're going to use an easy-out. When you drill it, put lots of pressure on the drill. Since the drill bit is going counter-clockwise, with lots of pressure on the drill, it will grab the bolt and spin it out pretty as you please. :naughty:

I drilled a 1/8" hole down the center, gently tapped in a 1/8 hex wrench and the nub unscrewed just as pretty as you please. Lowe's had some stainless steel bolts that were the perfect size so I'm back in business. Just for future reference, they're M6 X 1.00 X 40mm...SC

I've been rather carefull with those bolts as a buddy of mine had the same problem. Every now & then I run an oiled up tap down the holes just to make sure the threads are nice & clean.

You shoul be careful with those stainless bolts, my experience has been that stainless isn't that much harder than the OEM "butter bolts". Grade 8 hardness are the best, but can be a real PITA to get your hands on, as not alot of places cary them in metric sizes.

I was hoping to get some Grade 8, but there's very little choices available at 8 p.m. I know the stainless aren't the greatest, but I know they're better than stock. They are just too damn soft and I guess they don't like the Acerbis 3.4 tank, especially when that thing has to come off everytime I need to change something. The threads are still good on the mounts though. The new bolts went in with no problem when I test fit them...SC

I don't think it's your acerbis tank, I have to sorta "hold up" my stock tank to get the bolts srarted in on mine without wanting to cross-thread. I wonder if adding some thickness to the rubber mounts on the frame's backbone would make the task a bit easier. :naughty:

Reverse bit never fails!!!!! :naughty:

Actually, I know it's a combination of the Acerbis tank and the Unabiker radiator guards. The two were developed independent of each other and some tweaking has to be done in order for them to coexist. Unfortunately, the bolts paid the price...SC

I use the reverse drill bit trick and it works every time. We get a lot of stripped fastners on the helicopters, just the amount of times that the inspection pannels have to come off. I find if you have to drill a small pilot hole with a left hand drill bit then go the next size up, catches almost every time, and you don't have to worry about eazy outs breaking off insude the hole, nothing worse than trying to drill out an easy out

Broken bolts can be a chore. I avoid most of this on 6mm bolts by using a 1/4" drive stubby ratchet and a light touch. Grade 8 bolts are the answer....good American made ones will work almost as well as a tap on yer Yamaha.

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