Burned, Does this looks right?!


Some time ago I asked about my TDC plug replacement (mine fell out and I lost 200ml of oil) I asked if I need to order the washer with the new plug. But somehow it doesnt seem right to me.



I dont recall seeing any washers there not to say such a fat one.

Is it just a crush washer and it will become flat once tighten?

Looks like a crush washer. It is probably correct. I will look at mine later...but I won't get home until late tonight to look.

Yes you need the washer, and yes that is what it looks like before the first installation.

just tighten it down

i remembered mine has a crush washer with it.

Dang, even your carb got soaked in oil :naughty:

Thanks guys. Will do. I was thinking the same thing just wanted to make sure and not scrue up my bike again (like I did with the valves)

Yeah my carb is soaked in oil so was my whole left leg. Same goes for the gas tank,left rad and preety much the whole left side.....at least its not gonna rust right :D =P

I also ordered an oil drain bolt. Mine lost it's magnet and I wanted to replace it with a new one. well I got the plyg but it is shorter then mine and there is not magnet on it. :naughty: Also the stock one (the one I got at least) is shinny kinda of a silver/gold colour. The new one I got is black. Whats with that?? Where can i get a bolt with a magnet on it?? :naughty:

So ....what about the magnet bolt? Where can I get one?

I would not worry about adding one. I would be more concerned abou the one you lost floating around in your engine...sticking to god knows what or possibly blocking an oil passage.

No worry. The magnet is not in the engine. It was attached to the bolt but I was able to detach it using my fingers only so I left it off for the reason u mentioned above. So it wont float in my engine.

I do however want a magnet there it is a usefull thing to have. :naughty:

Did you lose the magnet? or did the magnet lose its ability to to stick to metal? Two totally different issues.

Ok....this is what happened. I darined my oil. Took the oil drain bolt into one hand and with the other grabed the magnet that was still attached to its original place on the bolt. I pulled the magnet and seperated the 2 with no force whats so ever. Nothing was holding it to the bolt exept its magnetic powers. :naughty:

Leave the magnet off and put the plug back in. Either that or you can glue it back on. You'll need to brake clean the hell out of it so the glue will hold...and you will want a glue that will hold up to be immersed in oil.

How high can the temperatures get in this are, where the oil bolt is located.

Im thinking epoxy the magnet back into the bolt. But will is survive the temp? :naughty:

I would not worry so much about the oil temp...it is probably only about 200 degrees. I'd be concerned about the compatibility of the glue with oil. Will the oil cause the glue to break down and release?

Forget the magnet...just put the bolt back in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .