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cheapest way to soften suspension

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what is the easiest CHEAPEST way too soften the front end on my 2000wr400. It is very harsh and i ride mostly rough badlands.

1 go to softer spring

2reduce oil height

3change to a lighter weight oil

4 go to gold race valves( not quite sure how these work or if I can install them myself or how much they cost.

5 play with number of shims. Not sure how to but I'm pretty mechanical, but am not very well informed with suspension designs.

I also am working on clicker positions but still cant get it soft enough.

thanks.

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Without having your weight, riding style and riding ability it would be hard to figure out the best suggestion. Also, are you harsh on the low speed hits or the high speed hits (1st part of travel vs. last third of travel) Do you have your sag set properly? One thing that usually helps me - which is completely conter intuitive is that when you bike feels to stiff in the front, many times it is too soft and actually needs to be stiffened up. The reason is that if your front is too soft, the bike will sit lower in the stroke - which is the stiffer portion of the stroke - that would account for the harsh ride. By stiffening things up, your bike rides higher, in the plusher portion of the stroke. Just a thought.

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slow and soft your points are well taken. I weigh 165 and mostly hill climb and badlands trail, very little jumping. It is the initial travel that is to stiff. No i'm pretty sure its not sitting too low in the stroke. I have had my cr revalved, i'm just trying to find a cheaper way such as less oil and softer springs. It is rough in the slow going square edge bumps. Overall it is a very good fork. I would also like it to grab a little better when cornering. I guess these wr's are notorious for washing out. I'm going to try lowering the oil height this week. I just was curious what other people have tried

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what is the easiest CHEAPEST way too soften the front end on my 2000wr400. It is very harsh and i ride mostly rough badlands.

1 go to softer spring

2reduce oil height

3change to a lighter weight oil

4 go to gold race valves( not quite sure how these work or if I can install them myself or how much they cost.

5 play with number of shims. Not sure how to but I'm pretty mechanical, but am not very well informed with suspension designs.

I also am working on clicker positions but still cant get it soft enough.

thanks.

Cheapest way - back out the compression front and rear. Go all the way to soften if need be. Then you can decrease oil height

Did you buy this bike used? It may have stiffer springs in it - you need the stock springs -

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I wouldn't change the fork springs, because the lower you put yourself in the travel, the harsher it will be on the small stuff. I would go with both lower oil and the thinner, like 2.5 weight. I think with those being the cheapest way. That will change your valving basically, to let the oil go through faster. If you aren't jumping, than you don't have to worry about bottoming. That will give you plush suspension. It will make everything softer, so I hope that is what you are looking for. If it isn't softer with those changes, than you have alot of stiction and have to deal with it another way. Good luck

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Remove gas tank and toss as far as you can. Replace with IMS or Clark tank and YZ seat. Like magic the steering/handling will improve!

There is no substitue for corrected valving........when were the forks last rebuilt with new bushings, mid-valve shims and cyl valve corrected?

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I bought the bike used but in mint condition. The guy had a 426 and let this one sit inside. It has originall tires sprockets and plug in it. And very very little paint is missing missing from the frame above the pegs. It has very few miles on it. But I am going to swap to a lighter weight oil. check the spring and go to a lower oil level. But how low of wt oil can i go . One guy at a shop said if i went below the stock 8 wt or 7 I would boil the fluid. I think i'll find some 5 wt.

I'm a motor guy lol, I'm not to up on suspension. When you guys change your fork oil do you run diesel or something through the forks to clean out the gunk, or can I just turn take the cap and spring out and pour the fluid out.

The manual explains how to refill but not how to empty.

Also you check the check the fork height with the shock all the way compressed to the ground right. thanks

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I personally use brake parts cleaner on the metal parts (ONLY), but that is when I have them all apart. Don't dump diesel down in, and drain it back out, because you will leave tons of it down in the forks. If you are just changing, you can just drain and see how dirty it is. Then go by instinct. If it seems dirty take them apart and clean them, if as you said, it looks like it hasn't been used at all, then just drain and fill. You will have a mixture of heavier weight and thinner weight oils, so remember that. Boil the oil inside a fork? Haven't heard that one before. Cartridge oil is as thin or thinner than 2.5 wt, so yes you can go down to that. I would try 5 or 2.5. Let us know how it works out. To set them, yes, bring the outter tube all the way down to the stop. You can start low with oil, and add. It is easier to add than to take out oil after you are done.

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