KLR 650 - Valve Shim Tool?


this website (http://www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm) claims that there is a tool for shim over bucket type valves to keep the springs compressed while the cam lobe is rotated allowing you to change the shims without having to remove the cam caps. Can this be done on the KLR-650? If so, does anyone know where to get the tool (manufacture & part number or web link?) and how much?



a.k.a. MainLine

a.k.a. SuaveGato

You don't need a tool. A small screwdriver and magnet will get the shim out without removing the cam. Measure everything and figure what you need then rotate the cam lobe off the shim. You can then pop it out without removing the cam.

Hey Pro Marinero,

thanks for the info. just want to check though and confirm however that this is true for the KLR too, not just the KLX? Just looks to me like it would be a pretty tight fit to get the shims out with the cam still in place? and the few web sites that i have found on the subject and Jay's Famous KLR video as well, all say that you must remove the cam caps. But maybe you could turn the crank with the lobe forcing the bucket down then the tool to hold the bucket down while you rotate the lobe back off of the bucket would give you enough clearance? Otherwise, wouldn't the valve spring force the bucket right back up, only giving you the few thousandth of clearance to work with?



a.k.a. MainLine

a.k.a. SuaveGato

Now that I think about it, I know you are right. The last two times I checked my valves everything was in spec, so admittedly it's been awhile since I actually had to change a shim. I do know that you only have to take off the caps and not the whole camshaft to get the buckets. Great, here I am acting like the authority and I'm passing bad info. Sorry for the confusion. :naughty:

Kawasaki has a tool, part no. 57001-113, that is made for the the shims for the venerable Z-1 and its' progeny. I have the tool in one of my tool boxes and have yet to have it on hand when doing my shims on the KLR. BTW, the Z-1 shims fit the KLR quite nicely. I have Z-1 shims from 2.30 to 2.80. They ARE interchangeable with the KLR shims.

Now all I have to do is remember to bring it out to the shop this weekend when I do my KLR valves.

AND, you do need to remove the cams when replacing shims without a clearancing tool. I learned that the hard way.


You had to take the cams out? Now that I've admitted my poor memory :naughty: I am thinking that I only removed the cam caps and the BARELY lifted the cams just enough to get the shims out. This way I didn't worry about losing the timing chain down in the case. Does this sound right or did you pull the whole cam?

Thanks for the info. guys. I just finished the job, had to remove the caps and then there is enough room (barely) to slid the shims out. I can see however that it may be possible, with the right tool, to somehow roll the cam to push the buckets down and use the tool to keep the buckets down as you roll the cam back off and get the shims out... but it was pretty easy to just remove the caps... I have an inch pound torque wrench anyway, so biggy to remove the caps and re torque them...


a.k.a. MainLine

a.k.a. SuaveGato

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