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little dilema

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I have the option to purchase a 2001 DRZ-E that has been converted to street legal. It has been converted 100% with 2 big mirrors, a spedo, blinkers and lights front and rear, trailwings, handguards, big tank etc and has under 3500miles. My plans for the bike do include 100+ mile sections of freeway on occasion and I have heard that the E and the S have differnt head angles (the S is relaxed for more stability). I also want a bike that is going to be reliable, I defiently know my way around engines but I don't want a bike that is going to need a complete rebuild at 20,000 miles because I ride about 10k per year.

I know the E has higher compression and hotter cams and that it lacks the "cush drive" so the question is, how much of a problem will this be for a bike that honestly will see about 75-80% street?

The price is right for this bike and it has almost all the upgrades that I would want to add but I am just worried about the engine and lack of the drive cushoning. I am not worried about comfort of the seat or anything like that as I plan to get a custom seat if I can't stand the stocker.

My initial reaction is to just go for it because it is lighter, more powerful, and set up than any S will be for the price, and it has the good suspension AND the FCR carb but I just need to know how worried I should be about the cush drive and the hotter motor.

Thanks in advance

Iain

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You seem to have answered most of your own questions...although I'm not with you on "head angles"? Only difference is cams and base gasket, header, exhaust, CDI and carb...I'd go for it but not sure I'd personally want to commute on it. Or any DRZ for that matter. Mine's set up for the mountains with short stints on black-top. Good luck... :naughty:

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Umm, many people have gotten 20,000 miles out of their engines, but expecting that from a high performance dirt bike engine just might be asking too much - DRZ or not.

On a side note, non-performance way detuned harley engines (Or so they feel) barely last as long anway :naughty:

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know how worried I should be about the cush drive and the hotter motor.

No cush drive on my 05s, dont know if previous years had it?

Motor should be no problem, go for the E.

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i believe the cush drive is in the tranny/clutch basket area and I thought all S models had it?

I wouldn't think that 20k miles is too much to ask from an S model, and honestly I would be upset if it died with that many miles. I have 15k on my 88NX250 which is a DOHC, liquid cooled, single and it still runs like a champ but it only has 11:1 comp, and an output of about 20-25 hp (i think).

What would wear from the lack of a cush drive? Tranny bearings, tranny gears, what else?

Has anyone had to rebuild their motor? Why and what was the price?

Is the bottom end the same between the E and the S?

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i believe the cush drive is in the tranny/clutch basket area and I thought all S models had it?

I wouldn't think that 20k miles is too much to ask from an S model, and honestly I would be upset if it died with that many miles. I have 15k on my 88NX250 which is a DOHC, liquid cooled, single and it still runs like a champ but it only has 11:1 comp, and an output of about 20-25 hp (i think).

What would wear from the lack of a cush drive? Tranny bearings, tranny gears, what else?

Has anyone had to rebuild their motor? Why and what was the price?

Is the bottom end the same between the E and the S?

The bottom ends are the same...there was a member on here from Malaysia wanting to know how to re-set his odometer at 99,000 klicks and several other members are over 25k miles without major...There is no cush drive that I know of...most of the rebuilds occur from not replacing the ACCT with a manual one. www.bitechmachine.com

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Cush drive?? I dont think I have ever seen a DR with one. But I have been wrong before. And as far as it being internal That would be the first I heard of it. But I could be wrong Burned you want to answer that one? :naughty:

Any way I have a very good friend that Has an 04 E totaly street legal via BD kit. He rides it to work every day 5-10 miles each way he has no probs :naughty:

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Could the 'cush drive' be the rubber cushions in the rear hub? If so, I know that certain off-road only bikes don't have them and some street models do have them. My understanding is that the cushions are to take up chain slap on the street where traction was perfect and it was possible to destroy the rear hub when really cracking the throttle under perfect traction conditions. Off-road model bikes didn't have the cushions because being ridden in the dirt there was always a certain amount of 'give ' as the tire broke loose on dirt when shifting and cracking the throttle open. My old DR 350 S has the cushions, but I haven't had the rear wheel off of my DRZ-E to know if it has them or not. I suspect it does not have them and I do take it easy on the street when running thru the gears for that reason. I've never actually seen a hub destroyed in this manner, but I've heard of it. Don't know if it's a real or imagined problem.....

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Go for the E. There is no cush drive, different head angle, or anything like that to differentiate the two models. As long as the E has highway gearing, 100 miles road trips will be doable.

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Could the 'cush drive' be the rubber cushions in the rear hub? If so, I know that certain off-road only bikes don't have them and some street models do have them. My understanding is that the cushions are to take up chain slap on the street where traction was perfect and it was possible to destroy the rear hub when really cracking the throttle under perfect traction conditions. Off-road model bikes didn't have the cushions because being ridden in the dirt there was always a certain amount of 'give ' as the tire broke loose on dirt when shifting and cracking the throttle open. My old DR 350 S has the cushions, but I haven't had the rear wheel off of my DRZ-E to know if it has them or not. I suspect it does not have them and I do take it easy on the street when running thru the gears for that reason. I've never actually seen a hub destroyed in this manner, but I've heard of it. Don't know if it's a real or imagined problem.....

The 650 Suzuki and Kawasaki dual-sports have that rubber coupler on the rear wheel...but the DRZ does not... :naughty:

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there is no cush drive on the "s". I don't think it's an issue at all. buy the e. the only differences between an s and an e are all bolt on items.

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ok, here is another question: The E model has no fan on the radiator, but in my experiences, my bike gets hot when I am riding off-road much more often then on the street. Does the E have larger radiators? Or is the rider just expected to ride until the temp light comes on and then stop to let the bike cool off? I would think that if you didn't need a fan for going WFO in tight woods, then you certianly wouldn't need it for the bike siting idle in traffic?

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the fan is a personal thing depending on where and how you ride.

some guys with S models take them off,some guys with E models put one on.

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the fan is a personal thing depending on where and how you ride.

some guys with S models take them off,some guys with E models put one on.

Correctamundo. Not many DRZ riders have temp issues without the fan. You can run Engine Ice and change the radiator cap if you're really concerned, or install a fan if it happens and continues to be a problem. But it shouldn't be a problem.

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