VOR Starting Procedure??

Hi All;

I have recently purchased a 2000 VOR 503 SuperMotard and proceded to have the engine rebuilt. It runs great, when I can start it.

What is the procedure for kick-starting this? The last time I rode it it took 20 minutes to get it going. I can't believe this is normal. The starting procedure in the manual was useless so any help here would be appreciated as I would actually like to ride it.

This is what I have been doing:

1. Flip the black lever on the carb to it's full upright (vertical) position.

2. Turn both fuel petcocks to "ON".

3. Kick and kick until I get tired or it starts.

4 (usually) Take the Vespa out instead.



Open the gas valves, Lift up the choke lever, Push down and forward on start lever do not kick it, Do not touch throttle, If it does not start after 5 tries something is wrong. Check all the simple things, Fuel ,Spark , Compression,Could be your valves are tite. If you have to kick something find a Honda.

I use to do the following

Turn fuel on

Turn choke on ( most of the time not required, even when cold )


push the kick start lever forward until it gets to compression ( lever goes hard ), if it does not come onto compression-return the kick start lever lever but DONT let it go all the way back ( or else the auto-decomp comes in and you wont ever find compression ) and try to find compression again buy pushing the kick start lever as before

When compression found return kick start fully and kick ( it really is just a push )

we were able to start the 450 by hand using this method, we could also start the 503 by hand but not quite as easily

As mentioned already if it wont go after 5 trys something is wrong


After you get it started warm it up good and check to make sure the Idle mixture is adjusted properly, this will make it much more predictable/easy to start, if that doesn't help then chk the auto decomp. should be about 1 to 1 1/2 mm of slack in the cable at the lever on the side of the head at TDC. If that doesn't help then as mentioned above chk the exhaust valve clearance should be no tighter than .006. My 530 will always start by hand when warm and even sometimes when cold...... Dean

I choke twice with no gas. Take choke off kick 1-2 with no gas and it usually starts right up.

Just checkin, you did have it rebuilt? If so who did it? Did they check the valves? Did they set the carb?

I have a 2000 sm503 and it starts 2-3 kicks always. On the odd occasion it doesnt then its flooded, and i hold the kill swirch kick it a couple of times to clear it, then it definately starts after a couple of kicks...

i've never used the choke on my 503 (dellorto), ever, even in winter.

when you're kicking it, are you getting a good full swing or is the kickstart 'bouncing' back at you? coz when i first got the bike, i was kinda finding a 'false' TDC. i'd think it was at TDC, kick it, and the thing would try to break my frigging foot. practice soon resolved that.

if you're sure the valves are set right, make sure you have the correct amount of free play (1.5mm) in the decomp cable (the auto one off the kickstart, not the manual one). makes a huge difference if that's set too slack.

*edit* sorry just noticed that was already suggested :naughty:

Hi All;

Thanks for all your help!

I tried the various suggestions posted here and still had a tough time. I checked the free play on the auto decompresser and it was set WAY (4mm) to slack so I corrected that. I also found that the carb was about a half turn to lean. It still is a bear to start but it is getting easier. Next on the list is checking the valves. I noted that the exhaust valves should be set to .006, what should the intakes be set to?

Again thanks. This is the first kickstart thumper I've had since the Honda 200x 3 wheeler I had back in the 80's so I'm a little rusty...


Hi All

I just brought a re-build? 503MX Today as well, Same thing but the shop I got it off tried to tell me the best way to start it was to kick with my left leg standing aside.Well I don't need to tell you how hard that was to do. So now just push forward as above and 1 to 2 time with no choke...

I suppose it depends in which country you live in as to wether you need to use the choke!! In wet and cold Ireland you need the choke every time!! the only time i dont is sometimes in my works heated underground car park!! But even thats rare only if i'd been on it in the previous couple of hours..

Make sure your kick swings all the way down (complete swing).

I used to end my kick prematurely on my 1999 VOR and then

found out that the last 25% of the kick travel was the portion

that started the beast up. Remember, no abrupt force required

just a continuous swing all the way down.


Ok variation on the theme I have a 2004 530 ENE. I usally kick it unless its been very obsitnate. If you leave you bike sitting for weeks at a time fill the tank. Fuel goes off the smaller the volume that faster it goes. Have you tried draining the carb and then starting with a fresh batch of fuel from the tank in the carb, Works wonders often. If its been regularly ridden cold starts pump throttle twice don't turn fuel on wind up to TDC (not past) usally goes first or secound kick no choke not throttle. Warm starts one pump of the throttle no choke no throttle first or secound kick. If it runs for a bit then stops need another pump of the trottle. Then I usally ride off and wonder why it starts running like a bag of crap 200meters down the road, turning the fuel on at this piont usally helps.

Show me your right shin bone and I can tell if you own a VOR.

That @#$%^&*()_ Dellorto carburetor is why I started installing Keihin FCRs on the damn things when they first came out.

Adriano is right, the VOR requires minimal effort but demands a complete stroke to start. It's a lot tougher when people are watching though!

The beauty of the FCR is it's ability to prime the motor with a squirt from the accelerator pump.

Did you all know that a team of Italian commandos, hired by Dellorto, broke into the Kohler (toilet) headquarters and stole the commode design drawings for the development of their new carburetors.....true story!

Solution: grab the Dellorto firmly with both hands, pull it slowly away from the motorcycle and......


Let me know if you need help with a Keihin.


hey guys, i have a tough time starting my VOR also. it's intermittent. what is a fcr and it's benefits? how much do they cost?

The Keihin FCR carb is a well manufactured Japanese device that has excellent fuel mixing abilities AND an accelerator pump that enhances performance in all acceleration and serves to prime the bike for starting if you wish.

I haven't checked pricing in a long while but tjey are probably available in the 500-550 dollar range.

NOTE for anyone interested I still have throttle cables to adapt the stock throttle to the Keihin.


Dellortos work fine if you get your jetting right. VOROC throw them all in my direction when you get rid of them. Two riding buddies each have two VOR's ('00 400EN, '01 503MX and '00 503VX and '02 450EN) with the evil Italian carbs and they all work great. In fact the guy with the '02 450EN is going to take the E-start off it kickstarts so easy.. My two 4 stroke Huskys work great. My Huskys both have pumpers, not sure on all the VOR's except I know the 400 is a non-pumper. Keihin carbs are great but looking at jetting threads on this board make me think they aren't fool proof.


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