Need full protection

I've noticed that as I have gotten older, I just don't bounce the same as I use too :naughty: So now I'm thinking about something like the Rock Garden jacket or the 661 pressure suit, or something along those lines. Any and all feed back from those who have and use them is appreciated. I've heard that they run small, and I'm not (6'0" @ 240 lbs.) Any one better than the other?

Good information HERE

I have been looking also but have not decided what jacket to get. Let us know your decision :naughty:

the 2005 661 suit is the first year to have hard chest protection. The back protection is somewhat lacking though.

Velocity Gear makes a killer back protector on their full body suit. The material is lycra though which I dont like as much as mesh.

Personally I wear an Icon Field Armor vest. It ahs good back protection, awesome sternum protection, and is cake to take on and off. It is just a vest though so you will need something else for your shoulders and arms.

I haven't heard of icon in the US., so it might be something new or not available to us over here yet. I ride in temp's from 40F to 95F, so cooling is just as important as protection. The 661 looks good, but how hot will it get????, but for all of these it may be the same for temp.. If you have one, what did you pay, and who did you buy from?


As one of the "elders" on TT (age 59), I also went for the full protection route to save my tired old body. Got the RockGardn Flak Jacket in January and love it. I bought it direct from RockGardn and the price was $185. You can find them for sale for a little less $$$ on other sites, but they're not always the 2005 model. Yes, they're sized a little small. I bought the medium based on their published measurements charts (6'1" 170 lbs) but should have gone to the large. Oh well, I can still squeeze into this one and once I'm riding I don't even feel it.

I'm back in the dirt after a 20+ year layoff (still rode street bikes though), so it's taken a while to regain what pathetic off-road skills I once had. I've crashed a few times in places that would really have hurt me without the Flak Jacket. One afternoon I crashed 3 times trying to cross the face of a very steep hill littered with rocks ranging from baseball to basketball in size. Each time I fell, I went tumbling end-over-end trying to grab something to time for about 75 ft and the other two for about 40-50 ft. The noises made when the Flak Jacket and Thor Force knee guards was smashing into the rocks was downright scary...without that protection I'm sure I would have been hurt pretty badly. As it was, I only came up with one medium-large bruise on one butt cheek....nothing covered by the jacket was marked at all.

January/February are the height of summer here (south of the equator) and temps were in the 90's and low 100's with a bunch of humidity. I really worried about the heat, but it was not a factor at all. RockGardn recommends that you not use a t-shirt in hot weather...put the equipment next to your skin. I had really eye-balled the SixSixOne Pressure Suit, mostly for the mesh body (versus the Lycra on the RockGardn), but the Flak Jacket is more than cool enough for me. Once it gets sweaty....which is about two minutes when riding in this holds the moisture next to the skin and really keeps you cool. The only time you really feel the heat is when you stop for a break....unless there is a decent breeze blowing, you'll be grabbing at the front zipper to let some air in. I also use a vented jersey (Fox Aero Strafer) and it passes a lot of breeze.

I am completely happy with my RG, but have never seen the 661 and therefore have nothing to compare it with. Maybe someone that has tried both can jump in here and give an accurate comparison.

"Break easy and heal slowly" is a fact of life as we get older.....dammit!!!



I can only talk about the RockGardn jacket...

They do run small. I bought the '04 model in Large, and it was waaaay to small for me, at 6'2" and 230lbs. Even when I was down to 210lbs, it was STILL too small for me. Only wore it a few times, and sold it.

I just bought the '05 (slightly different design) in XXL, and it fits perfect. If you're 240lbs, don't go smaller than XXL.

About the heat... I'm a "heavy sweating" type of person. I overheat easily and sweat a LOT. On a day in the high 80's, the older jacket was borderline tolerable for me. But then, I was wearing a t-shirt underneath, and not wearing a vented jersey either. In the future I will try wearing it directly against my skin to see if that helps. If necessary I will buy a vented jersey too. What somebody else said is true too: As long as you're moving and there's air passing over your body, it's not too bad. It's when you stop to take a leak or a break when it gets too hot.

One last thing... I think the '04 model offers SLIGHTY better protection than the new '05's do. The elbow/forearm/chest protector pads on the older version are thicker and harder than the new style. Using two hands, I can bend the new style ones, whereas you can't do that with the '04. Also, the plastic of the turtle-shell style spine protector is thicker on the '04 too.

I still think the '05 is going to provide GREAT protection, and I don't want to take anything away from it. Just an observation.

Check this place:

They're selling the '04 models at a close-out price of $109. They may not have your size though (they didn't have mine, or I would've bought one of the close-outs).

If they don't have your size, they should be able to give you the '05 model for ~$150 (that's what I paid), as they're matching the price of their main competitor.

Before you buy from cambria though, call the TT store and maybe they can beat Cambria's best price, and you'll save even more.

Buy one! You'll feel indestructable in one of these bad boys!

I too have the Flak and love it. They are small, so buy the XXL. I have crashed numerous times with mine and have jumped up without a scratch every time. :naughty:

As for warm weather, just don't wear anything under it. It is designed to wick sweat away from the skin which it does well. I won't ride without it.

I have a never worn 661 suit sixe xlarge. Will not fit me 6'2 235lbs. I'll sell it for 125.00 plus shipping. I really like the design.

I got a 661 beginning this year and love it. It fits perfect. I am 5'11 (probably the skinny type :naughty: ) and got the medium size.

Well the only mistake I did when I ordered, I didn't pay attention to the 2 models they make, so I ended up with this darn SP-1 light duty thing.

Hmmm, I ordered this week the regular version from for $162. Was in stock and shipped the next day. So I am right now waiting to get it.

As far as the protection, I only crashed with it once. Not really that bad, just pulled a couple muscles. But as bad as that hurt I didn't have a single bruise.

Heat wise the SP-1 with this mesh type fabric is great too, I didn't sweat so far in it this year. Not sure if the regular version is the same type it looks a lil bit different on the pictures.

I'll guess I'll be selling the SP-1 soon if anyone wants it. Has been used only a few times.

Trouch, Thanks for the offer but I know I need the XXL size.

xrMike, Good web site link for Cambriabike. Nice stuff and good prices. The Dainese look really nice. I want something that offers protection and yet still does not hamper my movement and doesn't have a lot of bulk. Not asking for to much here am I!

I have the AXO Protector Jacket and I think it's great. It fits well and is very comfortable. The only negative is that the mesh (my friends reckon it's fish net) can itch slightly if it isn't adjusted properly. I just make sure it isn't bunched up under the straps and it's perfect.

Do people recommend over the top armour instead of under the jersey jacket style armour?

Thanks for your help and comments. Their are a lot of jacket protectors out their, and finding the right one gets confusing at times. After looking around and reading up on things a bit I went with the 661 Pressure Suit. Shopping around gave me a price of $129.99, plus 10.90 shipping from Once again, thanks for everyones comments. :naughty:

I highly recommend the Dainese jacket. This is the only protection I've ever worn. It fits amazingly good and the pads don't slide around. My boyfriend was riding mountain bikes with his on and broke his back, but because the Dainese jacket offers excellent back protection with their unique honeycomb system, he's not paralyzed! Check it out:

I have the safety jacket. It's a bit spendy but they last for a couple of years. :naughty:

Thanks for your help and comments. Their are a lot of jacket protectors out their, and finding the right one gets confusing at times. After looking around and reading up on things a bit I went with the 661 Pressure Suit. Shopping around gave me a price of $129.99, plus 10.90 shipping from Once again, thanks for everyones comments. :naughty:

Congrats Paul, :naughty:

man you beat me by $30, why didn't I find that place to order mine last week.

I got mine today, looks great. I was already happy with the fit on the SP1 so I am sure I will like this one as well. First look I thought the chest plate could have been a lil bit bigger and more sturdy but I'll find out on my next crash. I know it will come sooner or later :D:D


That EVS jacket looks good. Even after my research, I'm still concerned about heat, the 661 may be hot. The Dainese look like they would be the coolest, but the $$$!! Very nice though.

I'm not sure you'll be happy with any of the previously mentioned jackets in 95 degree temperatures. I ride in 100+ temps all summer and heat is a main concern as well. I ended up wearing lacrosse shoulder pads ( ) and elbow guards. No more bulky than wearing a standard chest protector, and it provides unrestricted range of motion. Been through extensive field testing (lots of crashes) and it has worked well. If your looking for full coverage of your upper body, you can buy the rib pads that integrate with the shoulder pads.

Give it a shot, the pads cost less than $30. :naughty:

That EVS jacket looks good. Even after my research, I'm still concerned about heat, the 661 may be hot. The Dainese look like they would be the coolest, but the $$$!! Very nice though.

The EVS is quite warm when not moving but the ventilation works very well even at low speeds.

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      (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off:

      This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing:

      The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to:

      Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this:

      As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb:

      Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out.

      Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have:

      Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see:

      The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it.
      Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this:

      The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like:

      Pilot Jet

      Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off.
      Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up.

      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
      (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.)
      Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together.
      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
      Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go:

      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
      Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel:

      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By kashlak
      JUst curious of how many bikes,quads,trikes people owned over the years and what they were?
      78 honda atc 70
      85 honda atc 110
      ?? handa trail 70
      78 yamaha mx 80
      85 yamaha yz 60
      82 yamaha it 125
      85 kawasaki kxt 250 tecate
      79 yamaha yz 400
      86 yamaha yz 125
      85 yamaha yz 80 (playbike)
      92 kawasaki kx 250
      93 yamaha xt 350
      and last but not least a 99 kawasaki kx 250
    • By Bosch232
      Were the XL's the predecessor to the XR's?
      I have a friend who's looking at an old XL350, and I don't know anything about these bikes.