KTM shift lever issues

I've been having a heck of a time getting my shift lever to stay on.

Tried red locktite, a stud with a nylock nut, locktiting the splines....

So my question is does anyone know of a aftermarket shift shaft with a different style spline to get rid of the tappered style.

Cris

i have been having the same problem a friend told me just to weld the shifter to the shaft. he sais he did it before and it worked fine

Once the shifter has come loose a couple of times, the aluminum shifter splines get worn and are very hard to keep tight afterwords. The aftermarket shifters I have puchased don't seam to be able to copy the convoluted splines KTM uses. I use a new stock shifter, loctited and slightlly hammered onto splines and torqued with the stock bolt and lockwashers. Recheck often as it settles in. Once seated it has never given a bit of trouble. Say sport, what kind of super welding rod are you going to use glue that aluminum shifter permanently to the steel shiftshaft?

I believe that is a steel shifter your welding on. Ha ha. I ended up doing the same after mine came loose. I've tried aluminum and steel aftermarket shifters after breaking my stock one. The steel one came loose and wrecked the splines during a race, so I gave it a buzz with the welder. Of course being careful not to burn the seal. I quick buzz followed by a wet rag to transfer the heat away. It works, but it is a quick fix and a grinder will take it back off.

Thanks

Cris

hey cheif i dont know how the guy welded it but he did, it worked, and i saw it. Welding is his profession. I know you can't weld aluminum but it was welded. At the time i dint think to ask any questions. Hmm arent most aftermarket shifters chromium-molybdenum mixture?

I try'd to use the steel shifter [MSR] but it didn't fit well either. Save it for emergency parts/weld-on repairs. Try'd 2 brands of aluminum ones and 1 was fair[MSR] and the other [Tusk]a poor fit on the splines. Went back to stock.

Guys,

I've got an '05 450. My shift lever had a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head. It was about an inch long. It kept getting loose.

I bought some of the KTM bolts, put a piece of wire in the shift shaft and saw it was threaded a little over an inch and selected a bolt or 1-1/4 or so long. I put a flat washer on it, applied some locktite on it and and it's fine.

The stock bolt is too short, the 10mm head half buries itself and does not pull the lever in the seat of the tapered spline, go with the 6mm head or an allen cap screw with a flat washer.

u can weld aluminum, go to some one that does race chassis.it is a mig welder or a tig welder it has been a while i think its tig welding to weld aliuminum.just a little knowledge

You can weld aluminum just fine, just not to steel.

I tryed a tusk also, that thing wasn't worth the shipping it cost to get it here.

I am going to measure the shift shaft to see if I can drill and tap it to accept an 8mm bolt instead of the 6mm bolt that is stock. Not sure if there is enough steel there to hog the shaft out or not. Once I get my new shaft I'll post if it works.

Cris

Good luck, I'm not sure if the shaft is hardened or not? Going to try the longer bolt if possible.

I tried the longer bolt and plenty of locktite. I do have bad luck though.

I'm not positive, but I don't think the shaft is hardened. I think the arm on the shaft is welded on, so if it were hardened it would have to have been after it was welded or just case hardened. Also my weld would have broke off shortly after I welded the shifter on. No bolt, just weld. So that makes me think it isn't to hard. Plus the soft steel shifter I had on it striped the splines out when it came loose during a race, I guess I'll find out. Hopefully I will have it done next week. Thanks for the info.

Cris

IS there anyway to prevent this proble?. It seems to be pretty wide spread. Has anyone priced a shift shaft assembly?

Why not drill the lever and drill the spline and then put a split pin/cotter pin through it? May be awkward, and requires precision, but it wont come off.

Alternatively, tie some cord around the lever near to where it fixes on the spline (glue or threadbind to prevent lateral movement) and then tie round the frame. That way, if the lever comes off it should still be attached to the frame by the time you realise its missing, saving you some hard earned cash.

We use loctite a lot at work, and its brilliant if applied in controlled conditions..... contact surfaces must be thoroughly degreased ideally using a solvent based cleaner...... the atmospheric temperature both for application and use is also critical. Detergents, water ingress and variation in temperature i.e hot engine/cold engine/cold day/hot engine etc affects the suitability of the product massively.

I'm also unsure how aluminium has been welded to steel, if you can find out please tell me and i should be able to buy you all a new bike for christmas! :naughty:

On my bike i have used plumbers PTFE tape used for compression joints and the cord as a fail safe........ so far so good.

Rich

I drilled a tiny hole through the head of the bolt and a tiny hole through the shift lever right next to the bolt and ran a piece of safety wire through them. The only way my shift lever is coming off is if it breaks something.

Once the shifter has come loose a couple of times, the aluminum shifter splines get worn and are very hard to keep tight afterwords. The aftermarket shifters I have puchased don't seam to be able to copy the convoluted splines KTM uses. I use a new stock shifter, loctited and slightlly hammered onto splines and torqued with the stock bolt and lockwashers. Recheck often as it settles in. Once seated it has never given a bit of trouble. Say sport, what kind of super welding rod are you going to use glue that aluminum shifter permanently to the steel shiftshaft?

That's what I did on my '02 520, used loctite, (after cleaning both shaft & shifter real good with brake cleaner), on the splines & the bolt. Tapped shift lever as above after tightening bolt, then torqued bolt again. Never came loose after that.

why is everyone still busting my balls about the welding idea steel shaft steel AFTERMARKET shifter= arc welder Its a hell of a formula try it sometime :naughty:

hmm teflon tape neverthought of that before good idea

We use loctite a lot at work, and its brilliant if applied in controlled conditions..... contact surfaces must be thoroughly degreased ideally using a solvent based cleaner...... the atmospheric temperature both for application and use is also critical. Detergents, water ingress and variation in temperature i.e hot engine/cold engine/cold day/hot engine etc affects the suitability of the product massively.

Good information. Loctite has to applied properly to work well. I don't have a problem with my shifters coming loose. I clean the bolt anytime I have it out with a wire wheel. I then clean it and the shift shaft with brake cleaner, etc and blow them dry. I use the loctite recommended by KTM with a slightly longer bolt and it seems to hold well for me.

I tried locktite a couple of times and an aftermarket shifter with no luck. I didn't read about the longer bolt in time so I went with the lockwire method and haven't had a problem since.

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