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where does the oil go in?

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sorry for the retarded question but, i was changing my oil for the first time and i was wondering where the oil goes in, the oil reservoir or the crank case? I put oil in the crank case(1 litre) and ran it, then put about another 200-250mL in there and ran it again, checked the oil circutlation bolt(bubbled good) and drove it for a half a mile and the oil was the proper hieght on the dip stick, so the firat oil change is done but should i keep doing it like that?

Once again sorry for the retardedness :naughty:

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Put the oil in the crank case. Start the bike and run it for a few minutes. Then check the oil level with the dip stick in the frame. If within lines your good to go. If not touching the dip stick. Add small amounts in crank case and start bike and run again for a few minutes. Check again and repeat process until the oil level is within limits on dip stick.

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Be sure to check it after the engine has been shut down for about 5 minutes or it may appear to be overfilled.

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Just a dumb follow up question here. We all get manuals with out bikes, right? And or have TT to inform us of how much oil to put in when a manual is lacking. It tells us how much oil to put in at each oil change based upon how much we do (ie. change filter or not). And this could just be my ignorance here so you all put me in check, but why in the world does anyone mess with checking the dipstick to figure out how much oil to put in :naughty: . It's only a relitive measurement in the long run and really only tells you that you have "enough" oil but not necessarily the right amount. In my '01 426, I've never done anything besides put in what the manual calls for, same for my '05 250F.

Doesn't seem like measureing out the right amount oil, pouring it in should be to overly difficult to figure out.

Just curious.

Dodger :naughty:

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I think the dipstick is a good double-check for safety.

Also, a lot of folks have oil in different size containers/can't measure the oil going in. I estimate the oil I put in, and then double check on the dipstick.

ie. My WR250F takes 1.3/1.2 Liters with/without filter change. Oil comes in Quart (0.946 Liter) or 1 Liter bottles. The "0.2 or 0.3" part is pretty much a guess. The little sight-glass on the side of the bottle helps, but is not accurate. I could measure it out in a measuring cup or "Ratio-Rite", but they aren't always handy.

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Just a dumb follow up question here. We all get manuals with out bikes, right? And or have TT to inform us of how much oil to put in when a manual is lacking. It tells us how much oil to put in at each oil change based upon how much we do (ie. change filter or not). And this could just be my ignorance here so you all put me in check, but why in the world does anyone mess with checking the dipstick to figure out how much oil to put in :naughty: . It's only a relitive measurement in the long run and really only tells you that you have "enough" oil but not necessarily the right amount. In my '01 426, I've never done anything besides put in what the manual calls for, same for my '05 250F.

Doesn't seem like measureing out the right amount oil, pouring it in should be to overly difficult to figure out.

Just curious.

Dodger :naughty:

You know how the manual says to loosen the bolt on the head to the right of top of the oil line, and check for oil coming out.

Consider checking the dipstick as the lazy mans way to do the same thing. If you have oil, you have oil pressure.

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thats true YZ250F_Rider. if the oil goes to the resvoir you have oil circulating around in your engine.

My manual syas noting about where to put oil back in. but i figured it out.

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Hmmm... Now that you've done your first oil change.... Keep doing them,It blows my mind to think that some guys I've meet out on trails etc have only changed there oil like once or twice in the last 4 months etc & they ride them every weekend :naughty: .... They seem to think that there riding there old mans farm bike :naughty: These oil changes that most of us do is the life blood of your scoot.... In NZ a new WR250F cost $14,000..... Why would you not look after it :D:D:D

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if the oil goes to the resvoir you have oil circulating around in your engine.
Not so fast...

Even though I have never heard of a single incident of this actually happening, your bike has two oil pumps driven by a common shaft. One is the feed that pumps oil from the tank, the other is the return that pumps oil from the sump to the tank (frame, reservoir, etc.). It is at least possible for the feed pump to fail for any of a number of reasons ranging from a blocked oil screen, to a pinched line, to a broken rotor and have the return pump keep right on going. And, if they both quit, there would be oil in the reservoir, at least for a while.

Like I say, I haven't seen this on a YZF, but I have on some of the old British dry sump stuff, and on a Harley or two. It used to be that return oil was brought up to a point directly below the fill cap on the tank, and you could watch oil being returned, which meant it was being fed, too. You could still do that with the setup used up 'til '03, but not anymore.

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Yea u think not changing the oil in four months is bad, i know a guy that has bought his '01 426 right off the showroom floor and has only changed the oil about 4 times.

:banghead:

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Just as an oil change side note. Buy a Ratio Rite, Yes, a Two stroke mixing tool.

On the back side it measures CCs.

You can measure exactly the right amount and just fill it up without any worries.

My WR426 takes exactly 1500 ml. or 1500 cc "same thing" for the periodic oil change.

I fill the RR 3 times to the 500 cc mark and Im good to go.

I also dont like the sight glass. the only thing its good for is braking from an odd rock hit.

But I still cant wait to get our new 06 250f.

Eric

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Ckecking the dip stick will just tell you that the right amount of oil is in the bike. Checking the bolt next to the upper oil line ensures you have oil flow to your cams.

i.e.

So you run ur bike and see the right amount of oil on the dip stick but lets say the oil line to the cam assembly is blocked causing the cams to run dry and damaging the valve shim buckets, cams etc.

When I'm warming my bike up for a ride I always try to remember to check that bolt for oil flow. Just my $.02

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