changing timing chain


I'm getting ready to change my timing chain. It's slapping around in there pretty loudly so I guess it's time to change it out.

I am going to attempt to do it myself. The service manual doesn't show you how to do it exactly but it doesn't seem like it would be that hard. I figure I just remove the cams on top and remove the bottom side cover and stator. Is there anything else I'm missing? Any suggesstions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Check out this recent post - seems to be very clear and helpful on the exact topic

Change those cam chains!

You'll need a flywheel puller ($10), but you've been wanting one anyway, and it fits almost everything.

You can try just removing the exhaust cam; sometimes you'll be able to lift the chain around the intake without removing it.

You will need to unbolt the lower end of the cam chain tensioner shoe, behind the stator, as well.

Be careful that a "loop" or hanging link doesn't happen at the crank sprocket before you bolt the tensioner back on. The tensioner should prevent one from occurring after that.

Easy job. :naughty:

But: Retorque the cam caps properly...Very Important!

Having just done this 2 nights ago I can verify Grayracer's comments. As he said, be carefull when looping the cam chain on the crank so that a link doesn't get hung up the rear guide bracket. You'll find it's a little difficult to move the front guide enough to get the cam chain past it but if you use a large flat blade screwdriver it can be done (at least it worked for me). If you can not get the chain past the guides you'll have to pull the head off in order to remove the front guide and that's not fun cause you'll have to pull the carb and airbox snorkle and I found that to be the most difficult of my whole rebuild. :naughty:

Be sure you back out the cam chain tensioner prior to pulling the cams out. I don't think it's real clear in the manual but just take a small blade flat screwdriver and turn the tensioner (don't remember which direction) until you feel it click and it'll stay in the retracted position. If that doesn't work then just pull the tensioner off by removing the two bolts.

Good luck.

How do you get the flywheel off? Do I need to buy the yamaha flywheel puller or is there any other types of pullers I can use instead? Also, what other special tools will I need?

I had a 3 jaw puller that I got from either an auto parts store or somewhere and it worked fine. You might check Sears, they've got a few that would work or you can get one from Harbor Freight and have it delivered to your door. Here is an example of the one I used.

There is a little lip on the flywheel that the jaws can grab onto.

On second thought, stay away from Sears. :naughty:

I had a 3 jaw puller ....
OMG... :naughty:

Never use a jaw type puller on your flywheel. You might get away with it, but you also just as easily might not. The flywheel was not intended or designed to bear such a load at its edge, and you can distort the flywheel without knowing it, or break it altogether. If it's distorted, you may take out you stator or worse by trying to run it. I have replaced a number of different flywheels where this was done.

The tool that was designed to be used fits nearly every Japanese MC made except a WR, and can be had at any shop you walk into for about $10. Why the hell would you use anything else when the right one is so cheap and works so well?

OMG... :naughty:

The tool that was designed to be used fits nearly every Japanese MC made except a WR, and can be had at any shop you walk into for about $10. Why the hell would you use anything else when the right one is so cheap and works so well?

Cause I had one and it was handy and I guess I didn't know any better. Since you say you've replaced some that have been damage I went out and popped it off again and chucked it up in the lath to check the runout. Everything is within a few thou, so I guess in this case no harm no foul. I must have gotten lucky.

I don't know what "shop" you're talking about where you can just walk right in and buy a flywheel puller for $10, but there's not a bike shop around here that carries one. It would have just been another week down the drain.

Could be just a matter of a lack of demand for them. But, since you're up the mechanical scale far enough to understand a lathe, you can see why it would work better to pull against the solid steel center, close to the taper itself, than to place that strain on the much lighter stamped steel or aluminum shell of the flywheel.

Order yourself one, and see if it doesn't work better. Once your friends find out you have one, you'll become even more popular than you already are. :naughty: Like I said, it fits 95% of everything Japanese that has an ignition flywheel back into the late 60's.

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