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CRF250X In Valve Borescope

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I was able to get a quick pic of my Piston and In Valves through the sparkplug hole with a Everest VIT 3.9mm Borescope that I use at work. It has measuring capability as well as video / still photo. If I had more time I would have pulled the Pipe and Air Filter to get a better pic of the tops of all the valves. Next time.

2004 CRF250X 54.4 Hrs / 901 Miles. Gets hammered hard in the 10 mile long WFO sandwashes west of my house in Rio Rancho, NM.

I've checked the valves every 10 Hrs and reshimmed all the valves only once at 49.9 Hrs with the R Intake getting the tightest (.0025").

Cross hatch in cylinder looked good. The piston top as you can see in the photo has some carbon build up. I have some Maxima PVC and Valve additive from my 2 Stroke days that I am thinking of trying. I have all the OEM parts for a complete top end including the "R" Cam that I am holding off to install. Trying to maximize the serviceability of this little engine that can!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/Gino_Tortellini/CRF250XBorescopeInValves.jpg

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I've wondered if condensation forms around valves/seats[right intake?] especially after washing bike--moisture in airbox area----that would be a great tool to go thru intake side & see

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So, from the picture it looks like the intake valves are beat pretty bad, wouldn't you aggree? They show a lot of derformation at the seat area and even some carbon blowby as far as I can see. Cool tool, not so cool valves.

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My thoughts on my valves:

1. They show some wear via Borescope and one does in fact look worse than the other, R In phenomena? Gotta be heat related?

2. I am carefully watching my clearances every 10 hrs or less.

3. The next time the valve clearance (R In?) goes below spec (2nd time total) I am going to tear her down and do the complete top end with all OEM parts that I already have on the shelf. I have been really patient and holding off on installing my "R" cam. Could use more power in the sand washes only.

FYI: This Borescope cost $30K and is quite delicate. One bad move of the piston (or turbine blades for which it was designed) and you just bought a $10K repair. Put it in a hot engine and you melt the optics, $10K. Pretty funny using a $30K tool on a $6K motorcycle. My wife and her XR200 were not even impressed.

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Man I need one of those Borescopes! That would save a ton of uneccessary check up.

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Not sure you are going to like the R cam. If you do the top end, consider using a better quality spring kit. Lots of folks poohoo the PC springs but they are better than OEM in my opinion. I used stock valves with PC springs and had the seats/guides done. Also, for more power, consider the TR 270 kit. It flat rips!!! I think its the best bang for the buck.

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Latest Valve Borescope Photos :applause: :

http://photobucket.com/albums/y200/Gino_Tortellini/Valve%20Borecsope/

These pics were taken with 17.6 hrs / 325 miles on my OEM NEW Valves and Piston and R Cam. I now have a total of 84 hours running time and 1,440 Total Miles.

I've concluded that the In seats should have been reground at a minimum even though they had 100% contact. There were a few very small blotchy areas on the seats and without being able to lap the new valve this is not optimal. I've ordered a new '06 250X Head (Improved Seat Material) and OEM Valves and Springs. The head and In Valves are B/O. I am really wondering if aftermarket Titanium Valves and springs would be the better solution with a virgin '06 head, all comes down to dollars/hr. I am going to put the X Cam back in as well I really want more hours out of her more than I want the shift in power.

In the 17.6 hrs my R-In Valve moved from 1.85 to 1.65 to 1.35mm :banghead: . As compared to my L-In Valve which moved from 1.85 to 1.80 to 1.80mm. Exhaust stayed the same.

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Have you considered a Hot Cam or Crower Power Cam? I have the Hot Cam and it really benefits the X's power curve.

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my valves closed after 56hrs ( r/h intake zeroed) so had new oem intakes put in, also had a vertex high comp piston, hot cam installed and the head ported. run it in at a 3 hr h+h on sunday and loved the extra power and the improved rideability instead of the bike jumping out of my arms in second gear in tight woods i now can stay in third and ride smoother and quicker :banghead:

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Ya, new OEM springs, keepers, and piston rings too. Now I am in a Dilemma with the '06 250X Head on B/O. I have shimmed my last shim with these valves. An interim solution to my '06 Head is gonna be either SS or OEM Valves with ground seats. I am really afraid of the heavier SS Valves, not designed for it IMO, something else is gonna give (Timing Chain, Cam Bearings, Valve Seats)?

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