cutting subframe

I can ride my 450 just fine ...its starting and stopping that sucks.

I need opinions on 10mm out of subframe..will the muffler attachments

be fine?.Also will the seat / Tank junction look alright?

:naughty:

I would be more worried how it will affect your suspension travel.. 10mm doesn't sound like much, but my rear tire already rubs once in awhile..

Have you shaved the seat down yet?

No I haven't shaved the seat but at 5'4'' I might have to do both.

I saw in the the latest MX Action that Gosselaar's 250F has the subframe cut 5mm and the seat shaved.It must not effect the rear travel to much,isnt

RC's subframe cut down? :naughty:

Have you looked at the Kouba Link? http://www.koubalink.com/ I have it on both my bikes, it really helps a lot. It's simple to install, and not irreversible like cutting things is.

Yes I"ve thought about that (Kouba link) some have said it effects the handling and you have to raise the front forks in the triple clamps the same amount as the lowering of the link ...there isnt room for this under the handlebars and the tire into the underside of the front fender(travel)..the manual says not to raise the forks beyond the line..I can see moving them a few mm's but not 1.3 inches...What did you do with your forks?

Those avatars of yours must be people you know :naughty:

No I haven't shaved the seat but at 5'4'' I might have to do both.

I saw in the the latest MX Action that Gosselaar's 250F has the subframe cut 5mm and the seat shaved.It must not effect the rear travel to much,isnt

RC's subframe cut down? :naughty:

Rc and Gosselaar probably have access to shorter shock shafts maybe? I don't know, I would probably cut it anyway.. :naughty:

Before you cut it, try taking a small round file and ovalling out the lower mounting holes on the subframe. You can lower the subframe 5mm or more using this method, and nothing is cut. I'd do that and shave your seat before trying anything else. Thet're both effective and free mods.

I'll give that a try, but to me it looked like doing that would let the subframe legs hit the recess in the frame where they mount...maybe there's 5mm clearance in there..I dunno,Im away from the bike till tonite.

If there is any one out there who has done this let me know :naughty:

I've done it. 5mm out of the subframe is about 12mm at the rear of the subframe. I just cut it near the existing weld, took 5mm out, tacked and checked it, then TIG welded it with a 5356 rod making sure not to get it too hot. ie cool off with a wet rag after each pass. I blended the new weld with the existing weld and so far no problems. Also the RHS has a much thicker wall than the LHS. Doesn't scrape at all with a std rear tire. Once the seat was back on, it came away from the tank a bit so I filed down the plastic seat holding gismo on the tank to pull it back in.

The Kouba Link works really good for me. I slid the forks up in the crown until they are almost touching the bars, about 1/2". The rear is lowered by more than that but the handling isn't affected negatively, to me. Some others may feel differently? You still get full travel and my rear wheel has never hit the fender. On the front, Kouba states on their web site that you can raise the forks more than an inch with bar risers before you have a problem with contact. If you think your seat is overly comfortable, try these guys http://durelleracing.com/

I also had RaceTech shorten my travel by 1" while they were doing a revalve. So I'm down 2 1/2" and can touch with both toes, very nice. :D If you are considering any suspension work, have them lower it by 2" and skip the Kouba or cutting. The center of gravity of the lowered bike is awsome.

Those avatars of yours must be people you know

I wish I knew her, thanks go to Sports Illustrated swimsuit '05. :naughty:

If you want to talk more about the lowering I've done, PM me. :naughty:

Well guy's ...I went for it,I cut 10mm off about 1/2 inch from the welds.

10mm's yielded exactly 25.4 (1inch) at the back of the subframe...you have to put it back onto the bike and clamp it up because you cant just weld the

ends straight on (when the back of the subframe goes down the legs come up

proportionally) so the ends get welded back on at a bit of an angle plus each

side is different.

Man ,I hope the seat junction works out :naughty:

I would have considered doing the suspension mods but I just had forks and shock revalved,resprung,reoiled,& bottoming cones..but not lowered.

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