Transmission Cover - Bearing and Seal

Posted this on Planet KLX also..

Well, I screwed up today. I did the shift star mode by grinding the

shift star (very easy with a dremel tool, thanks for the KLXZone

Link with Pics). That went well and looked great. While putting the

covers back on, I was having a problem seating the transmission

cover. It seemed all lined up so I was going around tightening

evenly. The 10MM nut that is right below the shift lever seemed

tight, but I cranked a little bit more and I heard a little pop and

everything tightened up nicely. All back together and I added oil.

Small drips were coming from around that 10MM bolt.

I took it all back apart and that little pop was the transmission case

cracking!!! Those things are so delicate apparently!!

In any case, I've ordered a new cover, seal and needle bearing from

Bike Bandit. Grand total of $72.00.. That burns me!!!

Now, I'm left wondering how to press in the new bearing and seal

into the transmission cover when they arrive next week. They appear

to pressed in and they don't just push out. I tried tapping them out

of the cracked cover.

What do I do? I'm afraid to tap on these aluminum parts. Help.

Maybe a rubber mallet? I don't really know never had mine apart. But it sounds like maybe something wasn't quite lined up? Hope the new one goes on better.

Aluminum grows quickly when you heat it. If you use a hot plate, put the cover on a sheet of aluminum, and place some motor oil on the case. When it starts to smoke you can remove the case with welding gloves and usually you can insert the bearing. If you use a propane torch, first see if the case can be set up to press the bearing in with a c-clamp. Heat the case around the hole (10-15 seconds only) and put the bearing over the hole using the c-clamp to slowly press it in.

If you want to use the least amount of heat and minimize risk. Identify which side of the case you can lay flat on steel so you support the case over the bearing hole when you apply pressure to the bearing.

Using your best Chinese calipers check the size of the hole and the outside diameter of the bearing. There probably is not a lot of interference, because these bearings are fragile. I never replaced mine, but they can almost be lubed and pressed in cold. Same for the seal.

A bearing driver is best to use, with a little heat and a spray lube coat of anything on the new bearing. It should not be tough, just support the case on the side opposite you apply pressure to the bearing.

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