No stretch chains.

EK Chain’s new Zero Stretch Technology virtually eliminates measurable chain stretch in the first 600 miles (1000km) of use. ZST puts an end to the hassle of retensioning the chain after the initial break-in period, when most chain stretch occurs. For racers, this can mean going several race weekends without a single chain adjustment. ZST also helps to ensure that your chain will stay within wear tolerances throughout its entire service life. ZST is standard on the 530ZZZ chain, and available as an option on the 520RXO chain and all MVXZ series chains.

Anybody have one of these? Any good? My son's 250F stock chain has stretched further than Pamela Anderson's brassiere...So i'm gonna be buying a new chain soon. Any input from you guru's is welcome... :naughty:

I just bought an EK 520 MVXZ series chains. Just make sure the chain guide is wide enough for it. Looks super heavy duty, but time and abuse will tell :naughty: .

I run an RK X ring chain and I have only adjusted it once or twice over the last couple of months. Ride every weekend, motocross on a KX250f. Even when I adjust it, it's only a very minor adjustment. I have also run this chain on a Husky 410 with no problems. I lube with WD40 after a wash and occasionaly with a teflon chain lube but not much. I don't like the lube building up with dirt. I know a bloke (fast rider) who ran the whole season on a CRF450 and used nothing but WD40.

The best part is you can grab the back wheel and spin it freely. There is next to no resistance in these chains. A normal o-ring is a lot tighter.

I read some things about WD saying it wasn't "to good" for chains, I don't know if it is or isn't, I've found silicon spray is good and doesn't attract dirt.

Sorrrrry SlowMo I got side tracked.

Sorry Slowmo I've given you a bum steer.

The wifes bike has an RK X-ring which doesn't need adjusting but has a slight amount of drag.

My bike has a RK U-ring chain which only needs minor adjustments through the season. It has next to no drag. It feel the same to spin as a normal chain. I can't feel the difference through the throttle.

I use WD40 or cheap water dispersant after I have washed the bike to stop the rollers etc from rusting. I have had no problems with it.

Thanks for the info!... :naughty:

I've been stretching my chain alot, and I don't even have a bike any more.

(rimshot)

I've been stretching my chain alot, and I don't even have a bike any more.

(rimshot)

You better watch it bud, or you're gonna over develop your forearm..

:naughty::naughty::D

Too late. I've got Carpal Tunnel syndrome in my right wrist.

My wife thinks it is from the computer mouse.

It's from my weasel.

When a chain "stretches" it is normally contributed to wear at the pin/bushing area.

However, with nearly all roller chains, there is an initial stretch period where the metal actually elongates ever so slightly. Also there is a small amount of surface polishing that takes place during the first few revolutions that can contribute to a small amount of initial elongation.

The process that EK is describing is what is known as "proof stretching". What this means is that every run of chain that's mfg'd gets put under approx. 60% of it's ultimate tensile strength load. This process actually elongates the metals in the sideplates and eliminates the need for you having to adjust during the first few rides, as you would a cheaper chain that had not been proof stretched.

Most all top-shelf chains these days are proof stretched during manufacturing, including D.I.D., EK, RK, Tsubaki, and Diamond.

It is very doubtful that any of the standard offerings of any of the above mentioned mfg's are proof stretched. (I'm reffering to cheaper chains in the under-fifty-dollar range, not simply standard type roller chains with no rings)

Proof stretching makes good sense, and indeed does eliminate adjustments due to initial stretch period. But, it is not going to hurt to run a chain that is not proof stretched. Just realise that you need to keep an eye on most non-proofed chains during the first few hours of run.

Here he goes again....

2BB, if you had more to offer than a comedy routine, then maybe your dissing me and my responses would be worth something...

but as it is, your responses are a waste of ASCII, as you have nothing credible to offer.

If you have something on a serious note worth offering on the topic, offer it up. Otherwise you should keep your under-informed comments to yourself.

It's easy to see how your post count is way up. However, after taking a good look at your list of posts, I have found NOTHING at all that would help ANY dirtbiker here.

Don't you feel proud that all you have to offer this place is bad comedy?

When a chain "stretches" it is normally contributed to wear at the pin/bushing area.

However, with nearly all roller chains, there is an initial stretch period where the metal actually elongates ever so slightly. Also there is a small amount of surface polishing that takes place during the first few revolutions that can contribute to a small amount of initial elongation.

The process that EK is describing is what is known as "proof stretching". What this means is that every run of chain that's mfg'd gets put under approx. 60% of it's ultimate tensile strength load. This process actually elongates the metals in the sideplates and eliminates the need for you having to adjust during the first few rides, as you would a cheaper chain that had not been proof stretched.

Most all top-shelf chains these days are proof stretched during manufacturing, including D.I.D., EK, RK, Tsubaki, and Diamond.

It is very doubtful that any of the standard offerings of any of the above mentioned mfg's are proof stretched. (I'm reffering to cheaper chains in the under-fifty-dollar range, not simply standard type roller chains with no rings)

Proof stretching makes good sense, and indeed does eliminate adjustments due to initial stretch period. But, it is not going to hurt to run a chain that is not proof stretched. Just realise that you need to keep an eye on most non-proofed chains during the first few hours of run.

What's your take on using chain lube ?

I don't like using a lot because it builds up with the dirt and gums up the works. I use a teflon lube every couple of weeks. I have seen reports where a offroad tour operator ran half his fleet with chain lube and the other half with nothing and got the same amount of life out of the chains. I don't seem to be wearing any quicker and I basically only use the spray to prevent rust on the surfaces

2BB, if you had more to offer than a comedy routine, then maybe your dissing me and my responses would be worth something...

but as it is, your responses are a waste of ASCII, as you have nothing credible to offer.

If you have something on a serious note worth offering on the topic, offer it up. Otherwise you should keep your under-informed comments to yourself.

It's easy to see how your post count is way up. However, after taking a good look at your list of posts, I have found NOTHING at all that would help ANY dirtbiker here.

Don't you feel proud that all you have to offer this place is bad comedy?

Dude I think I can safely say that I have forgotten more about the internal combustion engine and offroad travel than you will ever know.

I spend a lot of time on here giving realistic advice, and I get thanked for it.

Truth of it is, I'm funny, and YOU take yourself a little too seriously. Some of us find you amusing.

I wish you did. :naughty::naughty:

BTW Chapparal sells chains for 40 bucks from time to time. Just go order a new one and stop panicking an lubing and cleaning.

Like is too SHORT!!!

Throw your old chains away, or better yet,

sell them to me and I'll forge them into knives with patterns like snakeskins.

What is the bore and stroke of a 1978 lamborghini v-12?

How many degrees before TDC is the points on a 1975 trail 50 set on?

How many 2 strokes have you rebuilt?

How many racecars have you built?

How many cars have you fixed in the snow and rain alongside a highway in the night?

Thrawn, I'm getting close to getting pissd, and Bryan is getting sick of seeing you follow me around on this sit inciting me to defend my honor with your petty insecutities.

Why do you want me to go after you all the time?

Sorry Slowmo I've given you a bum steer.

The wifes bike has an RK X-ring which doesn't need adjusting but has a slight amount of drag.

My bike has a RK U-ring chain which only needs minor adjustments through the season. It has next to no drag. It feel the same to spin as a normal chain. I can't feel the difference through the throttle.

I use WD40 or cheap water dispersant after I have washed the bike to stop the rollers etc from rusting. I have had no problems with it.

Good point on the WD40.

I WD all the pivots and such after a good washin' to chase the water away.

I then apply a good "O-Ring" chain lube to the chain.

Dude I think I can safely say that I have forgotten more about the internal combustion engine and offroad travel than you will ever know.
How could you possibly come to that conclusion? You don't know anything about me.

It's obvious you have some serious issues working. This place would be served much better by folks who have a true passion for this sport and a want-to-help attitude.

Your condesending crap not only shows your weakness', it's also not very funny at all. (although I'm sure you kill yourself) :naughty:

WD-40 has water in it and will cause things to rust. They don't have it listed on there but I have seen things rust up later after WD-40 was applied.

Keep it Down

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