valve timing (australian models)

should the valve timing be adjusted on aus models? im told it causes more problems than its worth flat spots and jetting problems etc

im told that the cams are different from usa

models and it should not be adjusted?

any body from aus changed there timing and if so have you had jetting problems?


I have a 99wr I have just changed back to WR timing and I found from my experience that Wr timing best suits me.

YZ Timed DVP needle went right through jetting range until bike run smooth with tan plug but found that I lost to much power down low even with dropping one tooth off the front sprocket.

The engine reved a little harder and a bit more mid range power but not what I expected.

I read everything on this site and thought my bike was going well until I put it against another wr with wr timing.

Then I changed back and man this thing rocks!!

There's a good chance I never had the bike set up properly because I could get the bike to run good but not like everyone is describing on this site so maybe the climate,alttitude or even the lack of jetting knowledge on my behalf could be a factor.

I have not yet heard of anyone in Sydney Aust that has had good results by yz timing so if anyone in Sydney has, can you please post your bike specs.

jamie what jetting specs are you using

needle ? pilot ? main ? and what exhaust system are you using (wr timing) did you have a flat spot off idle with wr timing interested on your findings why did you change to a dvp because of flat spot?


BEFORE Yz timed FMF MEGA MAX11,dvp ,48 pilot,175 main,2 turns fuel screw,snorkle removed,FMF POWER BOMB header

NOW Wr timed FM MEGAMAX11,dxm ,48pilot,175 main,21/4 turns fuel screw,snorkle removed,FMF POWER BOMB header

When I first changed to yz timing it had a flat spot and was surging so thats when I went to the DVP and that fixed the problem

thanks jamie

those specs are what i came up with too

i have yz timing and cannot get rid of the flat spot was going to fit dvp but i think

i will go back to wr timing need the bottom end back not responsive enough

i have spoke to a couple of yamaha mechanics

and they tell me that the australian models

should not be adjusted but it makes a big difference on top end

i guess its bottom end or top end take your pick? it would be great if there was a bolt on variable timing kit you could buy im not

going to experiment too expensive if it failes thanks for your help

ps: what clip on needle are you using


Clip position #4

Belly up!

i've measured the valve timing. in my opinion yamaha fudged the valve timing to help the WR & the YZ. they are two different animals.

i felt the WR was just-flat! throtttled! i dunno it just did. the YZ revved but close & open the throttle again on arise or low revs & it was easier to kick down one.

when i checked the valve timing i found that the ideal timing on the exhaust valve is not forward a tooth to WR, nor is it back a tooth to YZ but infact 2/3 of a tooth back from WR or 1/3 of a tooth forward from YZ.

i found a company called "falicon cranks" who do VT camwheels. bought a pair, fitted them & set the timing the way i figured was a good ballpark figure.

the bike really lugs in second & third. you kick it up one & the engine just PULLS.

i did the full story on it six weeks ago marked 'more ooommppphh!'.


I don't know, but I changed mine to yz and I feel it runs better. I lost no bottom and it seems like I don't have to twist on the gas as far to get the same results...

I was in tight woods no problem..

I have a 2000WR Australian model with YZ timing. I have it running well. The secret seems to be getting the pilot jetting and needle sorted out and then they go great. I have not heard that our cams are any different to the USA. The carb is different on the 2000 model so this jetting may not work for you. I have a Staintune muffler and header and normally use a road bike baffle that gives more performance than the standard one. Its the same as Sidetrack used on there coast to coast WR's. When first changing to YZ timing my bike ran horrible down low and in the midrange. The Australian DRQ standard needle is richer than the USA and it was the main problem in the standard position. Leaning it of to position 3 made the world of difference. Getting the pilot right makes a huge difference to low end response and luging abilty. Too rich and it loads up heaps and hesitates, too lean and it has a flat feel and stalls easily. Get it right and you can lug away to your hearts disire. You can nearly count the thumps on tight snotty hills. The pilot circuit seems very afected by different conditions. Muffler, heat, humidity, altitude and how much oil you have on your air filter.

I have settled on a 45 pilot with no baffle and a 42 with the road bike baffle. Then I just turn the pilot screw normally between 1 and 1 3/4 turns to suit conditions. I am running a 168 main jet. I am trying to make a easier way to adjust the pilot screw because it makes such a big difference to get it right. It would be nice to have a cable mounted up to the bars so you could do it on the run. I beleive getting the jetting right is the best performace mod you can make on the WR. I also run my bike on super fuel and beleive it runs better with my jetting that way compared to unleaded.

look up 10/16/2000

more torque!!

sorry about the wrong title earlier.

i'm not knocking at all the right set up for your carb. this is a proper mod in itself.


just changed back to wr timing bottom end is excellent runs like a dream i will never change back need that bottom end punch . i found out about the cams

for aus models they are all the same. very reliabe source the reason i was told not to change the timing was a lot of people have been butchering

there top ends eg a lot of warranty claims

if you are not mechanically minded or not a mechanic get someone who is to do the change

one claim was for someone trying to lever the chain off with out taking out the tensioner

or removing cam caps makes you shudder !?#$$$

I still beleive that if you got your jetting right with the YZ timing you would be even happier. Heaps more punch in the midrange is lots of fun. Try leaning of the needle position. (raise the clip)

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