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Header welds on XR250

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Anyone who has grinded the header welds down on their headpipes on the XR250 this is for you. Did you gain any noticeable power when you did it? This is mostly a question of MARs' post he put up. And another thing is.............how often does the swingarm bolt need to be lubricated?? I myself have had the bike for about 6 months and have never lubricated that bolt once.

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I've had my 03 from brand new since August. I had never greased it until about a week ago. The nut came off pretty hard which worried me. I got it off easy enough though and the bolt popped right out no problems. It had absolutely no grease on it though. It was a really easy thing. I put my bike on the jack so I could slide it out, grease it and pop it back in while it was still lined up. I would say don't worry about it being seized up but definately grease it as soon as possible.

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If I remember correctly, I ground the header weld down at the same time that I opened the airbox and modified the exhaust baffle so I don't have any information on whether the header weld grinding did anything by itself.

I do know that every little bit helps and it's the small details that add up to significant increases in engine performance.

With an air die grinder and good rotary file the entire job takes less than 30 minutes.

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I did the gordon mods in this order over a period of a about 6 weeks, Uni filter, remove snorkel, rejet (135/48), drill the holes in the spark arrestor, and last ground the header welds......collectively they made a world of difference, individually the header welds made the most difference....when I got my 02 in 04 it had a WB E series muffler on it, I aquired a stock muffler and done the gordon mods, and now have the same power delivery and smoother (ALOT quieter) with the stock muffler and gordon mods....rotary file with cordless drill takes about 2 hours to grind down the welds, get two rotary files, they wear out quickly and it probably wouldn't take so long but the second weld was filed with a worn file...oh yeah, starts very easily, 1-2 kicks...gordon mods only costs $40-$50

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I did the gordon mods in this order over a period of a about 6 weeks, Uni filter, remove snorkel, rejet (135/48), drill the holes in the spark arrestor, and last ground the header welds......collectively they made a world of difference, individually the header welds made the most difference....when I got my 02 in 04 it had a WB E series muffler on it, I aquired a stock muffler and done the gordon mods, and now have the same power delivery and smoother (ALOT quieter) with the stock muffler and gordon mods....rotary file with cordless drill takes about 2 hours to grind down the welds, get two rotary files, they wear out quickly and it probably wouldn't take so long but the second weld was filed with a worn file...oh yeah, starts very easily, 1-2 kicks...gordon mods only costs $40-$50
I've been using the same rotary file for I don't know how long and it's still in good shape. A cordless drill doesn't spin near fast enough to make one work. A die grinder spins in the 20k+ rpm range and removes the metal extremely fast. I'd say I spent less than 5 minutes per weld.

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I agree with tubo, i used stones and metal grinding dies,and it took less than 5 minutes per weld,2 hours?that dude must have taken 9 beer breaks.also i used a plug in drill.

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I agree with tubo, i used stones and metal grinding dies,and it took less than 5 minutes per weld,2 hours?that dude must have taken 9 beer breaks.also i used a plug in drill.

There is quite a bit of variability in the thickness of these welds from the factory. Mine were huge; I could barely get a pinky tip in the orifice they created. Is it possible some of you 5 minute guys bought your bikes used and were touching up someone elses work? I didn't have 15k rpm tools available, but I threw everything I had at them with a drill. It took quite a while to hog those welds down and flap sand them smooth. They're damn hard welds. Not including beer breaks I'm sure it took close to 2 hours. I did spend a fair amount of time making sure the resulting orifices were the same size and round.

Ironically, my wife's 230 had nice (small) neat TIG welds with no need to touch them up.

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There is quite a bit of variability in the thickness of these welds from the factory. Mine were huge; I could barely get a pinky tip in the orifice they created. Is it possible some of you 5 minute guys bought your bikes used and were touching up someone elses work? I didn't have 15k rpm tools available, but I threw everything I had at them with a drill. It took quite a while to hog those welds down and flap sand them smooth. They're damn hard welds. Not including beer breaks I'm sure it took close to 2 hours. I did spend a fair amount of time making sure the resulting orifices were the same size and round.

Ironically, my wife's 230 had nice (small) neat TIG welds with no need to touch them up.

I bought my bike new and the welds were very large. I used a socket as a guide to make the holes the same size.

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My 400 had medium size welds. I couldn't notice a gain just from that, but I wax the top of my truck and van when I do it, just don't like leaving a job 1/2 done. On the swingarm bolt, mine was 1 1/2 years old when I bought it, and did it last November which made 2 1/2 years. It came out fine, but had some surface corrosion in the cad plating on the bolt. I wire brushed it lightly, then buffed it on a wheel, then warmed it up and sprayed it with molydisulfide spray that's used on presses and dies, then greased it and put it back in. I don't ever want to go through what some of the guys here have in the future. The moly spray is a combination corrosion inhibitor and lubricant.

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I would grease it and keep it greased. Don't put too much faith in the moly paint. Reasonable dry film lube, sucks for corrsion resistance. BT,DT on a HighLift jack. Corrosion happens b/c H2O can get in there. If the area is full of grease the H2O can't get in there. Grease makes a much better corrosion barrier.

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