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i talked to somone from Dynojet today about the amount of horespower gained from their stage 1 jet kit. they said 1.8, a 10% HP gain. i ordered the stage one as well as a 140 main jet because i'm not sure i want to do the 3x3 mod yet. i want to know if doing the 3x3 mod makes a huge difference in power and if so is it OK for the engine. the only reason i'm asking is because i feel my bike has great power and if i don't have to cut my air box i won't.

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It's fine for the engine as long as your jetting it properly. All you're doing is introducing more air, so you need to adjust the amount of fuel coming in as well, hence changing the main jet. You should get a noticable increase in power, but if you're happy where you are and don't want to cut your box that's your choice.

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Just fit the DynoJet kit as per D/J instructions, and save the 140 Main and the 3x3 for when you want / need more power. I have done the 3x3 and D/J but wish I had done the D/J on it's own. The 3x3 is not for everyone.

Neil. 🙂

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I don't really understand how the dyno jet kit can benefit the bike all that much if you don't let in an extra amount of air to match the extra fuel 🙂 Not saying to cut out the 3x3 by all means but just curious if it would really be worth all the trouble to add the kit only to find you have to cut the 3x3 anyway and do the carb thing all over again. If it was me I would just do it all at once and be done with it , that carb is a pain in the butt to get in and out IMHO. Now that i have the DJ and the full yosh I'm pretty satisfied but the BB kit and the cams are starting to sound good now. I guess i will always want more but really don't need it 🙂

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Just fit the DynoJet kit as per D/J instructions, and save the 140 Main and the 3x3 for when you want / need more power. I have done the 3x3 and D/J but wish I had done the D/J on it's own. The 3x3 is not for everyone.

Neil. 🙂

why do you wish you did the kit on it's own, is there to much power or something.

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I don't really understand how the dyno jet kit can benefit the bike all that much if you don't let in an extra amount of air to match the extra fuel 🙂 Not saying to cut out the 3x3 by all means but just curious if it would really be worth all the trouble to add the kit only to find you have to cut the 3x3 anyway and do the carb thing all over again. If it was me I would just do it all at once and be done with it , that carb is a pain in the butt to get in and out IMHO. Now that i have the DJ and the full yosh I'm pretty satisfied but the BB kit and the cams are starting to sound good now. I guess i will always want more but really don't need it 🙂

You're not adding more fuel unless you change the jet. He's just going to install the kit and leave the stock jet ( I assume) which would allow him to get the gains from the new needle and not worry about the 3X3

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When I opened up my airbox I made the opening more like 4x4 and then had the carb rejetted by a guy at a local shop who was more experienced at it. It took him 4 or 5 tries to come up with the 165 MJ that's in there now. The bike now runs really strong without any hesitation. . . at home where there's no elevation. But the thing uses a lot more gas than it used to.

Went to Utah a couple of weeks ago and had a lot of trouble with my setup in the mountains while the 3 other DRZ's with stock jetting ran great. So now I'm thinking of going back to stock and I guess while I'm at it I'll use the Dynojet needle and spring (because I'm told they're better??). Here I go again, making more changes. . .

My point here is that I think very few of us weekend warriors really benefit from making the changes away from stock settings and unless your a bit of a jetting artist it's easy to screw up. I wish I had left mine stock. If anything I'd probably only do the snorkle removal and maybe the 3x3 if I rode at alltitude and needed more air.

That's my 2 cents.

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I run the dyno stage 2 (3x3), burned set up

But The bike doesn't even need brakes with the airbox and exhaust plugged up,FYI

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One thing i noticed about my bike when i went to Colorado was that it pays to listen to Burned 🙂 I did the 3x3 DJ kit and made the adjustable fuel screw my self. I can say from experience that being able to quickly adjust the fuel screw is a good thing. I had to make several adjusments to get it tuned in and glad I was able to do so. My bike pulled much harder than the stock DRZ's I was riding with and on more than one occasion I thanked Burned in my mind while blazing the trail. All I did was proper jetting and DJ kit 3x3 and adjustable fuel screw. I don't see how a guy can go wrong but you have to understand a little bit about it I guess. I'm not reall smart when it comes to stuff like that , I just followed what others did and it worked out for me 🙂

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i talked to somone from Dynojet today about the amount of horespower gained from their stage 1 jet kit. they said 1.8, a 10% HP gain. .

I hope MY 400 makes more than 18hp. 🙂

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If your happy with it leave it alone. No one is pushing you. I did exactly what burned suggested and I am very pleased and love the power. It doesn't matter what you buy a car, truck, bike, sled whatever. It can aways be improved or made more efficient. All the 3x3 does is make the opening the same size they put on the E/K models. Why didn't they do that in the first place has always wondered me. It would of been cheaper for them to use the same airbox.

Burned = 🙂🙂

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1.8 HP gain

yea, but your post said they claimed that was a 10% increase. 🙂

why, my fire-breathing, wheelie-popping, asphalt ripping, mostly stock S puts out at least 30+ hp. 🙂 - A ten percent increase would be a WHOPPING 3 hp.

BTW - open the airbox, I haven't owned a non-mx'r that opening the box didn't make a very obvious difference in power.

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I hope MY 400 makes more than 18hp. 🙂

LOL, I didn't catch that before. That's funny 🙂

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why do you wish you did the kit on it's own, is there to much power or something.

The improvements to the power and response come from the vastly improved fuel metering afforded by the D/J needle. I think the 3x3 is better for maximum power, but it has little effect on low RPM power and response because the standard opening is big enough at lower rev's. Mine is now running very well with the 3x3 but, it is now much more sensitive to changes in the temperature and humidity, which is what i would expect.

The closer you get your fuelling to perfection the more sensitive it becomes to changes in the weather and altitude. So I would suggest that if you want to just make the bike more responsive that you give the 3x3 a miss for now. You can always do it at a later date. I have fitted a few D/J kits to various bikes over the years and have always been impressed with them, but this is the first time I have done such radical surgery to an air-box, and I am not convinced that I have done the right thing.

Neil.

🙂

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The improvements to the power and response come from the vastly improved fuel metering afforded by the D/J needle. I think the 3x3 is better for maximum power, but it has little effect on low RPM power and response because the standard opening is big enough at lower rev's. Mine is now running very well with the 3x3 but, it is now much more sensitive to changes in the temperature and humidity, which is what i would expect.

The closer you get your fuelling to perfection the more sensitive it becomes to changes in the weather and altitude. So I would suggest that if you want to just make the bike more responsive that you give the 3x3 a miss for now. You can always do it at a later date. I have fitted a few D/J kits to various bikes over the years and have always been impressed with them, but this is the first time I have done such radical surgery to an air-box, and I am not convinced that I have done the right thing.

Neil.

🙂

i rather have more fun and less problems. i'm going to probably just take the snorkel out and jet it that way. if it runs good with power and reliability than i'll leave it, i'm not trying to win races.

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i rather have more fun and less problems. i'm going to probably just take the snorkel out and jet it that way. if it runs good with power and reliability than i'll leave it, i'm not trying to win races.

Good for you, if I could find the bit that I cut out of my air-box I would put it back in.

Try leaving the snorkel in first, theory has it that it should flow more air and faster than a plain hole. It is then an easy mod to just pull it out as a check, when you are confident you have it right. Suzuki fitted that snorkel for a reason, it would have been cheaper and easier to just leave a plain hole.

Neil.

🙂

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yes,and the reason is noise. its a air intake noise silencer.

you guys will figure it out on your own.im confident of that.

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When I first got my 400S I did runs up the street and checked what gears were comfortable at what speeds. I then pulled the snorkle and dis the same thing on the street. The rpms were lower at higher speeds with out the snorkle. The bike wheelied easier with out the snorkle too. All this with no jetting change.

The only use I see for the snorkle is it may keep some water from splashing into the airbox and it gives a little more height to the opening if you ride in a lot of water.

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