I'd say mine is a 5 at best, 0 worst, 10 best.
Most of the stop power comes from the front brake.
4 at best IMHO!
My front isn't much better but it is what gets my bike stopped.
I've always had good luck with stock Honda pads. Except for my XRL.
It has a rear brake ? I thought the pedal on the right was just to keep the bike from rolling, when sitting at red-lights !!
Well it's good to know it's not just me. I messed with it for a couple of hours one day to no avail. I'll second the Honda pad quality. I got about 7000 miles out of the fronts. Got 1000 out of some front Galfers, for about the same price I went back to the Honda pads. Not any better stopping with the Galfers.
Piss poor Only good for locking up in the dirt and not rolling back at a stop light.
Yaa, I have to say there pretty bad. A 4 is being generous I think, even the front brake isnt the best! Does anyone have a 650 with stainless braided brake lines? I see them at Rockeymountin.com for 69 buck for both.
I very rarely use the rear brakes on my '95 650L. I have to make a consious effort to put my right foot on the rear brakes. The electrical wire to the rear brake melted years ago, melted by the exhaust pipe. I have no problem using the rear brakes on my CR500, I don't even give it a thought. Different kind of ride..
The only reason that I had to replace the original pads in 2003 (about 44,000 miles): a brake pad was not put properly back into place at a dealer in Carson City. It is an easy mistake to make. I had a flat rear on the way home. The pad got shaved down a bit, so I replaced them. The rotor still looks new.
The reason I don't use the back brakes on my 650L:
They are useless, and only cause handling problems! I don't know if it is the 95lb muffler, the 150lb battery box, or the 75 pounds of tools in the fender bag, but the arse end of that bike is way heavy.
I noticed early on that when you lock up the rear brake on a 650L when going down steep hills, the back end would go out of control and I'd lay it down.
The front brakes get used, even if I'm going down a steep loose hill with a passenger on the back (my wife), I've gone through more front brake pads than I can count. I've needed a new front rotor for a couple of years now, but am too cheep to buy one.
I am glad to hear that mine sucks not by accident. I still love my bike. I have had it since 94' and the weak brake has never been a problem, just adapt to it being weak and move on. I did find that a marginal improvement could be realized by religious changing of brake fluid. No less that once every six months.On the subject of pads I agree that OEM's are best. Aftermarket pads wear at an extremely high rate.
I just put on rear pads on my 94' last month. I got them at the dealer but they were EBS pads with a dealer sticker on them. Is this the OEM brand or is the dealer just getting over on us. The price was the same as what it in the catalog though. $26.99
What are you paying?
I have Russell steel braided lines on front and rear on my 2004 650L and it makes a big difference. Got em on E-bay for $89.00 for the set from this seller.
I just put on rear pads on my 94' last month. I got them at the dealer but they were EBS pads with a dealer sticker on them. Is this the OEM brand or is the dealer just getting over on us. The price was the same as what it in the catalog though. $26.99 What are you paying?
the dealer didn't get ya too bad ... (EBC is aftermarket brand) ... according to a new rockymountainmc catalog I have here, the rear EBC carbon pads are $18.99, the rear EBC sintered-metal pads are $21.99, ... so, figuring tax and shipping, not an unreasonable profit there ...
My rear brakes are flat out useless!!! they are good for sitting still at a light or lockin the tire up. They are no good for slowing down because its a 350 pound bike. Of course the rear tire is just going to lock up. The 50/50 street/dirt tire does not help the situation. I do not however have the loss of control problem when it locks up. I just slide in a straight line and there is the occasional back and forth movement but I can easily control that. I give my brakes a 2 maybe 3 at best!!
I tend to use down shifting for rear brakeing over the rear brake. Ill give the rear brake a two out of five.
Seems okay to me...but then again my bike is new, 700 miles on it, downshift to a stop and coordinated braking front and rear - stops well.
Dualndan, how are the length of the stainless lines compared to the stock ones? How long for shipping too? Ive seen a few out there that are Way too long and can get snagged easily.
A 4 at the very best, put steel braided line on mine and it may have moved it to a 5....unsat....just use it to settle the suspension before a turn..
So would you recomend the stainless lines?
Okay, my L has 500km on it so far, and the back brake seems to work well in conjunction with the front brake on street and on the trail. If I was in a crash situation, I'm pretty sure it'd lock up in a hurry, rather than give me a lot of hard stopping power.
So if I wanted stainless brakelines, I'd have to remove all of the lines, refill them with brake fluid, bleed them, etc? Sounds like an awful lot of work! How long should that take for an amateur?
Shouldt take you more than 10 or 15 mins to do both and bleed em too. If you do them make sure to use DOT 4 fluid. I think im gonna go ahead and get the Russel lines, I think it will be a vast inprovement over the stock ones. Especially the front which flexes a lot!
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