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Need some info and opinions


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OK well im coming off from the YZ450F and now I want to go with a CRF250/R. I've been riding in C-class and really want to get serious so im switching to the 125 class and I figured the Honda would be the best bike. I need anything from the basic info to how to best set-up the bike for my size and weight. Im 188lbs with gear(will be loosing weight because im actually overweight) and im 5'8''. As always the thought of valves come up but since this is the F1 of dirtbikes I guess it comes into the territory and i'll accept it when it comes. Also what kind of oil filters and oil do you guys recommend. I perfer the synthetic types. Are there 2 sides for oil like the 450? or just the 1? Does this bike like to be revved or is it a lugger like my YZF? If I buy a X-ring chain, will i have to buy a spacer like i hear about the 450s? I will be making my purchase within the month depending on how quikly my 450 sells and would like as much info as possible. Also, other then honda's website, is there any videos of the 250F in action?

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Stock air filter fits best....

Get Hi-Flo oil filters, you can get them cheap, same filter as the K&N and an OEM equivalent...

Is has two seperate oil cavities....I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 in both sides, but Mobil-1 15w50 "gold cap" is a good synthetic oil also, as is the Shell Rotella T 5w40 synthetic.

The bike makes decent midrange power but also has a decent upper end hook especially if you get a mid/top pipe like the SM1 or Jemco...

My X-ring chain has not required a spacer, it is the new DID X-Ring Pro something-or-other, very little seal drag...

If you want the stock clutch to hold up quite a bit better, as soon as you get it, buy an extra OEM steel plate and install it in the middle of the basket, then fill with 850cc of oil EVERY time you change it, which should be every 2-3 rides max. The extra plate preloads the springs a bit more and also the thicker stack gives you a wider range of wear before any slippage could occur. Some people don't believe the "extra plate method" but the ones that have tried it can tell you, it works very well. My clutch is ~50 hours and going strong...the basket is holding up too so far...

Get you a JD Jetting kit for the bike, it is a very worthwhile cash outlay.

As far as valve springs, just check your clearances every 10 hours or so, and if you get to 35 hours and the valves have not changed clearances, you might consider installing new valve springs, the stock ones are marginal for high rpm at best, and sack out at or a little before that time...

What else did I miss....

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I would go with an RMZ or KXF 250 but it is all up to you. I have a crf250 05 and they certainly do not have the power of the other 250f's. Handling is there but power is not.

That is just so....inaccurate....

...all of the bikes are plenty fast, you are splitting hairs trying to say one is better than the other...

...especially for a novice level rider...it doesn't matter, the skill makes ALL of the difference on anything even remotely modern...

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That is just so....inaccurate....

...all of the bikes are plenty fast, you are splitting hairs trying to say one is better than the other...

...especially for a novice level rider...it doesn't matter, the skill makes ALL of the difference on anything even remotely modern...

Exactly. All of the 250 4 strokes have plenty of power and the CRF doesn't win shootouts because it's slow.

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Stock air filter fits best....

Get Hi-Flo oil filters, you can get them cheap, same filter as the K&N and an OEM equivalent...

Is has two seperate oil cavities....I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 in both sides, but Mobil-1 15w50 "gold cap" is a good synthetic oil also, as is the Shell Rotella T 5w40 synthetic.

The bike makes decent midrange power but also has a decent upper end hook especially if you get a mid/top pipe like the SM1 or Jemco...

My X-ring chain has not required a spacer, it is the new DID X-Ring Pro something-or-other, very little seal drag...

If you want the stock clutch to hold up quite a bit better, as soon as you get it, buy an extra OEM steel plate and install it in the middle of the basket, then fill with 850cc of oil EVERY time you change it, which should be every 2-3 rides max. The extra plate preloads the springs a bit more and also the thicker stack gives you a wider range of wear before any slippage could occur. Some people don't believe the "extra plate method" but the ones that have tried it can tell you, it works very well. My clutch is ~50 hours and going strong...the basket is holding up too so far...

Get you a JD Jetting kit for the bike, it is a very worthwhile cash outlay.

As far as valve springs, just check your clearances every 10 hours or so, and if you get to 35 hours and the valves have not changed clearances, you might consider installing new valve springs, the stock ones are marginal for high rpm at best, and sack out at or a little before that time...

What else did I miss....

Those I can find at a local auto store like advance auto? As for the extra plate. You said it goes in the middle, so that would be like 2 steel plates against each other? and isent 850ccs a bit much?

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I would go with an RMZ or KXF 250 but it is all up to you. I have a crf250 05 and they certainly do not have the power of the other 250f's. Handling is there but power is not.

I would have to agree with that...the CRF250 handles pretty well but as far as power goes a stock YZ250F is faster than a piped CRF250R. After various magazine's said this I went out and rode the two back to back. Even with the better handling of the Honda I was faster around the track with my stock YZ250F. I dont mean to start any bashing or anything, this is just what I experienced.

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The CRF250R isn't a slow bike, its just not as quick as a YZ250F.

Should be interesting to see how they compare for 06. Im like a confused cat that keeps getting pulled in different directions. I mean I would like the reliability of the YZF, but the handling and performance of the CRF. I wish someone could come along and just say, "this one is better for you because of blah blah blah blah." I mean, im still a kid(16) so a $500 top-end every month just seems to be, well, alot.

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Those I can find at a local auto store like advance auto? As for the extra plate. You said it goes in the middle, so that would be like 2 steel plates against each other? and isent 850ccs a bit much?

Yes, Rotella T 15w40 or 5w40, and Mobil-1 15w50 can both be found at dang near any auto parts store.

The steel plate does go in the middle right with another steel plate. It works. And 850cc is not too much, it helps cool the plates and prolong clutch life.

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