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KLR650 newbie

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Hi everbody--

just got my new 2005 KLR 650. 270 miles in 6 days. Lovin' it! Did some riding in the central sierra nevadas over the 4th--beautiful. :)

quick question, there is an annoying metallic rattle, almost a ring coming from around the instrument panel at certain rpm's. I tried to tighten everything up but it is still there. Anyone notice this on their bike? Could it be the speedo cable? Don't want to mess with it too much until I can figure out what to look for. Any help would be appreciated.

Great forum! :)

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are you sure it's not the speedo cable? That is the only thing I can think of that really has movement in that area.

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Pull your speedo cable off. Go for a ride. Report back. :)

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its a long shot... but i once heard a metallic rattling coming from my instrument panel, then realized it was my metal key ring vibrating against the metal key.....haha...

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A friend recently got a new KLR that had the same symptom. He tracked it down to a loose mounting of the HORN! (Mine has long since crusted over with dirt and grime, so nothing rattles) :)

Seriously, get yourself some blue Locktite and start going over everything, especially that speedo cable. The old girl does tend to shake things loose!

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Along with the Loctite, get some earplugs. They just rattle naturally, and you will feel better about the bike in the long run. :)

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Hi,

I've had mine for a year, mine also had an annoying buzz up by the instrument cluster. It was the weatherstripping piece between the fairing and the headlight cover. I just pulled mine off and the buzz went away.

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Thanks for the advice everybody. It was the speedo cable. My new friend locktite and I took care of it. Got the removable type loctite and went over the not critical stuff on the front (fairing, wire shroud, instument panel, mirrors). The various shaking and rattling I can live with, even enjo--but that speedo cable was very high pitched and very annoying and ver easily fixed. I am new to these things so I am sure there is much I have to learn. I have learned that my new girl is a hell of alot of fun. So back out into the wind I go. Got to go earn my coat of dirt, grime, bugs!

Yes jared I did suspect the key a couple of times this last weekend. I am strangely glad that was not the problem.

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KLR 650 Hi Guys, This is ma first post, Jist the day I picked up a C9, I have noticed that the red water light on when you start up, I looked in the resoviour and its between the marks, but when i took the radiator cap of it was full to the brim, on the other side in the viewing area its between the marks. what is this bottle, is it an overflow tank or what ???? how does the red light go out ???? and how do you jack the rear suspension up a bit to harden the ride.???? Thanks. guys...John....... Scotland

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Don't know much about the C model, I had an A15 and most of this board are US, so they'd have an A model as well.

First thing is the spring- if the C and the A use the same shock, or the same stock spring, it's too soft and has way too much preload. On the A, the stock spring is a 10" long 300lb/in spring. Once it's mounted, it has over 450lbs of preload on it.

The "right" spring, depending on your weight, would be a 9" 450lb/in spring if you weigh 175lbs in full gear, going to a 550lb/in spring if you weigh around 230lbs. Go up one more size if you often carry a passenger or lots of luggage.

Springs in the US are around $90. It's the cheapest fix. The next step up is a different shock.

The right side tank is the coolant reservior, and your description of the coolant levels sounds correct. I have no idea why the light is on, but if it does it when the bike is cold then I suspect the sending unit is bad. The A model does not have the light, but has a temp gauge instead. I removed mine along with the entire stock instrument cluster, and really didn't miss it.

Devon

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Devon, thanks fur yer input,,,, the C models an the A models are the exact same engines an bike basically, the only difference is the body work...I weigh in at 250 lbs.an am 6`5"...its on the second setting, also ma question was how do you rotae it around to find the next notch to harden the preload an spring..... ave now found ma light goes out when ye click it intae gear, only in neutral does it come on, but again a dont know if this is normal..??? how long ye had yours. this one has 2500 miles on it, am also lookin fur a louder an more throaty pipe, can ye recomend any, a wat it tae sound more like a Motorbike something wi a bit of a growl, but not over the top.... like an open pipe does... a have a laser produra race can but no intermediate pipe, , so am lookin fur recomendations an a n a link pipe tae suit the produra pipe, that pipe will also fit the loud can an the street can....dae ye know of any....John...Thanks.

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I have a 2005 KLR 650 and I have the same rattle you are talking about. I found that the clutch lever rattles slightly and makes a noise. I have not found a solution to the problem yet but I will let you know as soon as I do.

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I thought I had it when I tightened down the speedo cable and locktited(<--is that a word? :applause: ) it down. But it is back and only between certain rpm. I am learning to keep it out of that rev range but I would love to eliminate it. It is not unbearable, simply annoying. I understand that these things rattle but I can clearly hear this high pitched noise at 70+ through a full face helmet. I will investigate the clutch lever. If I find a fix I will post it. In the mean time it doesn't keep me from riding so I am not too worried about it. This weekend I attack the rattle with all my feeble skills. Ride on :eek: .

roughtumble

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The only pipe worth spending money on for a KLR650 is a Laser Pro-Duro IMHO. As far as I know Laser doesn't make a headpipe.

I put 35,000mi on mine in 3 years, before I totalled it in a road accident. It was the most reliable bike I've owned, though too heavy for long woods rides (now I have a KLR250).

There's a 12mm nut on the preload adjustor collar, you turn it and the collar will click up a notch at a time. This will not help you (or someone your size) much at all. You need a spring that is almost twice the strength of the stock one. A 550lb/in spring is about $90, you can get them at eshocks.com. Possibly Hagon or someone local to you can get you a proper spring. This is by far the cheapest way to improve the handling, along with fork springs.

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I am also a big rider 6'3"/250lbs. Is there a spring/shock combo that can be applied if you were willing to spend more money? Would that be better in the long run? Also, what is this I hear about "progressive springs?" How do they effect handling?

The only pipe and header combo I have heard about is the Big gun. Supertrapp also makes a pipe that seems to be popular. Certainly is cheaper than the Big Gun.

bigfatgreen, why do you think the Laser Pro is the only one worth the money?

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